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#1
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What causes Glow Plug failure?
My 71 220D has had an issue for a long time. When I had the original loop style it would often burn out GP's on longer drives (Over 70 miles). Years ago I upgraded to the quick start pencil plug and now the #1 plug went out and the other 3 are fine. I am just curious what keeps causing this. Any hints???
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#2
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Bosch In Deutschland ? (So they can sell you New Ones!)
Something made of Metal that GLOWs 1200 degrees F,Multiple times AND it
Goes Bad?
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 |
#3
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It does not sound like your pencil plugs failed prematurely. The old loop style on a 220 should last for a decade or so though unless there is somethig unusual going on. Were they Bosch plugs?
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#4
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Wrong spray pattern from an injector can cause repeat issues. Generally though I have just thought of glow plugs as light bulbs.
Many reasons for them to drop out unexpectably both self inflicted by quality issues and externally by the severe operational conditions. |
#5
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Quote:
Was it three years or thirty years? |
#6
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Quote:
Pic of what is in the Factory manual. More normal issues are simply how you drive (does the type of driving you do build up more Carbon; like only low Speed City driving). How, often do you need to use the Glow Plugs. A recently rebuilt Engine may not need much Glow plug use to get it going. A worn Engine may need several applictions of the Glow Plugs to get it started.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel Last edited by Diesel911; 06-21-2011 at 12:24 PM. |
#7
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It was about 6 years ago.
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#8
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Why do they fail?
The FSM makes reference to the length of time a glow plug is used. The newer W123 / W126 glow plug systems have a safety cut out facility to stop them from being on for too long.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#9
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The FSM says that carbon build up between their ends and the precombustion chamber can cause premature failure ( shorting out ) and suggest reaming it out as periodic maintenance. Many threads on how to do that properly with heavy grease to catch and remove the grease.... with warnings not to use the engine turning over or compressed air as that may send that carbon the wrong direction .. meaning stopping up the 7 tiny holes in the end of the precombustion chamber critical to fuel atomization...
The newer pencil type plugs can be glowed for 60 seconds straight according to the book....and should be at least 45 seconds if some factors are causing hard starting... like cold weather or lack of compression....or lack of starter speed...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
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