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#1
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Broken Flywheel bolts
Trying to save a buck I re-used the flywheel bolts. Unfortunately, 2 broke off. Does anyone know the easiest way to remove the remainder of the bolt? Easy out?
Now I'll remove the remainder and replace with new bolts. |
#2
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Left handed drill will probably take them right.
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#3
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No, a Left handed drill will take them left...
LOL.... if you have to buy a left handed drill bit....and this really is a magic solution most of the time... you can use right handed ones to do pilot holes to make sure you are centered... then just make sure you are leaving safety distance to the threads .. but once you get the insides out...and the pressure is counter clockwise they usually come right out.
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#4
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So I should use a regular bit to drill a hole and then use a left handed drill bit to extract the remainder of the bolt?
I'll also have to read up on the torque and angle(?) of the bolts. Obviously I misunderstood what torque the bolts should be. Charlie |
#5
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You probably do not have any left handed drill bits in your tool box...
I had to try three bolt places in Austin to find them back when I first tried this... So I was trying to give you the cheapest route.... is it perfectly ok to use a regular right hand drill to take it out several steps... then when you get to the last step use the left hander and it should back it right out.. Now, if you have the money... buy a whole set of left handers... but do not let any ' helper' use them... as they will dull them fast not remembering to turn them the correct direction.... LOL I could be wrong but I do not think the flywheel bolts use the ' torque to lb then add 90 degrees rotation as do SOME of the head bolts.. be sure to check on that ...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#6
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Flywheel bolts.
This angle of rotation thing has me concerned |
#7
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Ok.. be sure to run a proper size tap into that hole first.
Automotive torques assume ' lightly oiled threads' ...someone will dispute that statement....and they will be wrong. Be sure your bolt threads are clean with no burrs. Know how to use a torque wrench... measure the one you use if it is a click type first.... mine are the old bending type and one must be sure to be applying the pressure with the handle centered... Take it up to the specified torque in the fashion required... IE..if they say use a star pattern and go up in 20 ft lb increments ... do it that way. When you get to the specified torque then use a right angle and mark how far that rotation is.... do not use a torque wrench for this part.. use a breaker bar if you have one. Turn to correct angle and leave it alone. Oh,,, and use new bolts.....LOL Have a cold drink...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#8
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Thanks, that is some great info.
Charlie |
#9
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Glad to share it....
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#10
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Harbor Freight has the Chicom left hand drill bits.
Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#11
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The left hand drill bits are great if you can get 'em or wait for them.
The following alternative might work for you. 1) Take out the bolts that didn't break and remove the flywheel 2) If the snapped off bits are protruding used vise grips or what ever to remove (may be cut a slot in a protruding head with a Dremel type thing and back out the bolt with a flat blade screw driver) 3) If the snapped off bolt doesn't stick out you could turn the crank so that the snapped off bolt is positioned in the gap in the transmission adapter plate where there might be enough space to use a normal drill bit to drill forward - thus pushing the bolt out of the flange on the crankshaft and into the gap between the block and adapter plate... ...measure the gap between block and adapter plate and compare with length given in the picture in post #6 to be sure!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! Last edited by Stretch; 06-24-2011 at 10:18 AM. Reason: Corrected post number |
#12
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Well I removed the remaining 9 flywheel bolts. There were only 2 broken bolts(?)(I don't know where the other broken bolt went to) which I removed with Channel Lock.
I've priced the flywheel bolts and they are somewhat expensive. I haven't priced them at the dealer although I would think that they would be about double. Is the danger of re-using the bolts that they will break once that the engine is running or that the bolts cannot be torqued because they have stretched too much? Charlie |
#13
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Charlie,
I can't remember exactly how much my flywheel bolts were at the dealer but they weren't hyper stupid - if I remember correctly they were about 3 euros a piece. The FSM specifies the stretch limit if I remember correctly. But seeing as what has just happened, I personally would be replacing with new.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#14
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I agree I don't want to risk it. The prices range from $6.50-$8 per bolt.
Charlie |
#15
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Asking the dealer for a price doesn't cost money - have you asked fastlane yet?
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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