new purchase, 1 dollar 240 - Page 15 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Mölyapina · #**211** 11-05-2013, 11:22 AM

Hey John... something just came to mind. When I first got my 300D (late fall of 2011), I remember reading your thread on STD about converting a W201 5-speed to work with the 240D. I didn't know who anyone in the 'Benz forum world was at that point -- I only joined PP almost a year later -- and so I only more recently realized that you are that guy. After reading your thread, now almost two years ago, I remember thinking that "Man, that guy is so cool! I wonder if I'd ever get to meet him someday... nahh, I'd never be that lucky."

True story

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JB3 · #**212** 11-05-2013, 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stretch

Some information that might actually help (!) =>

When I pulled my power steering pump to bits it didn't pump after I had cleaned it all out. First stop was to come on the forum to see what was what. At that time I found lots of "I don't why but it won't pump any more" threads. It turned out to be because of a dirty valve =>

W123 Vickers type 24 power steering pump questions

You might find that the pump pumps better if it has been cleaned out.

You can also do an easy drain of the whole system sans / zonder / without the turkey baster fiasco by doing this =>

What a feeling it will be! A properly adjusted W123 / W116 / W126 power steering box

Thanks for the links! definitely some good info

This car has an honest to god 123 chassis manual steering box from I believe somewhere in north Africa.

Mölyapina · #**213** 11-05-2013, 11:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JB3

here is how the volvo setup works I am referring to. Sheetmetal box built around the exhaust manifold, waste heat collected off the manifold (not exhaust gas itself) ported under the engine bay to preheat the air intake. The same concept could work on the MB and port the heat to the steering box. The volvo setup has a simple valve to shut off the heat in warmer temps. Id probably do a drop door or something similar, depends on the room

The manual box has no fluid lines. Interesting idea, but that would require probably an external pump to move fluid. Pretty soon you have something as complex as the power steering without the benefits.

Oh, I see. That Volvo setup looks pretty nifty... Volvos were one of the other cars I was looking at buying before I ended up with the 'Benz. I guess I was thinking of the power box, where there are indeed two fluid lines running to the PS pump, but you obviously wouldn't have that

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JB3 · #**214** 11-05-2013, 11:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jooseppi Luna

Hey John... something just came to mind. When I first got my 300D (late fall of 2011), I remember reading your thread on STD about converting a W201 5-speed to work with the 240D. I didn't know who anyone in the 'Benz forum world was at that point -- I only joined PP almost a year later -- and so I only more recently realized that you are that guy. After reading your thread, now almost two years ago, I remember thinking that "Man, that guy is so cool! I wonder if I'd ever get to meet him someday... nahh, I'd never be that lucky."

True story

.

lol, and now you know im a regular ol' shlthead.

Stretch · #**215** 11-05-2013, 11:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JB3

Thanks for the links! definitely some good info

This car has an honest to god 123 chassis manual steering box from I believe somewhere in north Africa.

Now that had me thinking...

...I wonder if the caster settings for a W123 with a manual steering box are different from the power steering versions...

...and does the manual steering box contain oil? Chapter 46-070 reconditioning of manual steering box doesn't seem to mention it.

Mölyapina · #**216** 11-05-2013, 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stretch

You can also do an easy drain of the whole system sans / zonder / without the turkey baster fiasco by doing this =>

What a feeling it will be! A properly adjusted W123 / W116 / W126 power steering box

As far as draining the power box, I found that letting it drain that way with the wheel all the way to the left doesn't get it all out -- after it was done draining with the wheel turned all the way to the left, I turned it all the way to the right and, to my surprise, more stuff started coming out! Once that was done, I went back to the left again and got a bit more out. Also, when the front end is slightly inclined on jacks, fluid WILL hit a steering component once the flow starts to ebb -- maybe the Pitman arm, maybe something else, I don't remember -- and get splashed all over the area under the car! So be careful

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Stretch · #**217** 11-05-2013, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jooseppi Luna

As far as draining the power box, I found that letting it drain that way with the wheel all the way to the left doesn't get it all out -- after it was done draining with the wheel turned all the way to the left, I turned it all the way to the right and, to my surprise, more stuff started coming out! Once that was done, I went back to the left again and got a bit more out. Also, when the front end is slightly inclined on jacks, fluid WILL hit a steering component once the flow starts to ebb -- maybe the Pitman arm, maybe something else, I don't remember -- and get splashed all over the area under the car! So be careful

.

Oh don't get me wrong I don't think you'll get absolutely everything out of a steering box this way but you will get quite a lot more than just sucking stuff out of the top of the system at the power steering pump.

Here's a picture of the amount of fluid you'll find in the steering box when you pull it to bits

Still quite a bit!

(Taken from this thread W201 steering box refresh and adjust)

JB3 · #**218** 11-13-2013, 08:59 PM

So deliveryvalve sent me 4 lightly used preposterously non rusted california shocks which I've installed. Also swapped out a front caliper to match both sides, repacked bearings, and put a brand new rotor on the passenger side. (Did a new rotor driver side 3 months ago before body work). Existing rotor was warped and causing a lot of vibration. Also weirdly pitted with rust in places

Thing feels like a new car with the shocks though, I can't believe the ride difference. Its amazing how used you can get to bad shocks.

I figure I had one good shock, driver rear. The fronts were tired, driver front had a worn lower connection, making noises, and passenger rear was entirely blown.

DeliveryValve · #**219** 11-13-2013, 11:24 PM

I think I saw a bit of rust on the shock bodies?

Glad they worked out despite some missing bits.

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Mölyapina · #**220** 11-13-2013, 11:56 PM

How do you tell if the shocks are "tired"? Appearance? Bouncing the car? Something else?

Stretch · #**221** 11-14-2013, 02:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jooseppi Luna

How do you tell if the shocks are "tired"? Appearance? Bouncing the car? Something else?

Bouncing the car is a good start - that will show really worn out units if there's a 1970s American land yacht bounce to them (<= don't know how to check shocks on those 1970s cars - how could you tell?!). When driving, a submarine diving effect under hard braking is also a good sign. Excessive leaning / weird handling might also be apparent (when you've really left them on the car for too long!)

Visual inspection => leaks or stickiness, rust on the shiny bits, heavy rust on casing, rubber attachment parts with cracks and broken dust boots etc etc etc

Excessive noise => if you start hearing swishing noises for small lengths of travel then that could be a sign that it is on its way out.

DeliveryValve · #**222** 11-14-2013, 02:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jooseppi Luna

How do you tell if the shocks are "tired"? Appearance? Bouncing the car? Something else?

This is a simple guide.. Though for trailer shocks, it still has pertinent info
http://www.hendrickson-intl.com/CMSPages/GetFile.aspx?guid=42eeb9c5-8871-4bea-b764-d5db4f3c9a67

Mölyapina · #**223** 11-14-2013, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stretch

Oh don't get me wrong I don't think you'll get absolutely everything out of a steering box this way but you will get quite a lot more than just sucking stuff out of the top of the system at the power steering pump.

Right, my point was more that one should watch out for a fluid spill

.

JB3 · #**224** 11-14-2013, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DeliveryValve

I think I saw a bit of rust on the shock bodies?

Glad they worked out despite some missing bits.

.

worked out perfectly, the missing bits happened to be the only good bits I had on my existing shocks. I ended up with one extra bushing in total.

JB3 · #**225** 11-14-2013, 11:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jooseppi Luna

How do you tell if the shocks are "tired"? Appearance? Bouncing the car? Something else?

some are obvious like this one-

this one was less obvious, but this particular connection was making a ton of noise, rattling any time you went over anything.

Hard to see in this pic, but the bolt flange section could swing back and forth more than half an inch. There was nothing left of the bushing

also this piece had been chewed up-

what its supposed to look like, and what was left after being destroyed-