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  #1  
Old 11-05-2013, 11:17 AM
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Some information that might actually help (!) =>

When I pulled my power steering pump to bits it didn't pump after I had cleaned it all out. First stop was to come on the forum to see what was what. At that time I found lots of "I don't why but it won't pump any more" threads. It turned out to be because of a dirty valve =>

W123 Vickers type 24 power steering pump questions

You might find that the pump pumps better if it has been cleaned out.

You can also do an easy drain of the whole system sans / zonder / without the turkey baster fiasco by doing this =>

What a feeling it will be! A properly adjusted W123 / W116 / W126 power steering box
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
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  #2  
Old 11-05-2013, 11:24 AM
JB3 JB3 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
Some information that might actually help (!) =>

When I pulled my power steering pump to bits it didn't pump after I had cleaned it all out. First stop was to come on the forum to see what was what. At that time I found lots of "I don't why but it won't pump any more" threads. It turned out to be because of a dirty valve =>

W123 Vickers type 24 power steering pump questions

You might find that the pump pumps better if it has been cleaned out.

You can also do an easy drain of the whole system sans / zonder / without the turkey baster fiasco by doing this =>

What a feeling it will be! A properly adjusted W123 / W116 / W126 power steering box
Thanks for the links! definitely some good info

This car has an honest to god 123 chassis manual steering box from I believe somewhere in north Africa.
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  #3  
Old 11-05-2013, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by JB3 View Post
Thanks for the links! definitely some good info

This car has an honest to god 123 chassis manual steering box from I believe somewhere in north Africa.
Now that had me thinking...

...I wonder if the caster settings for a W123 with a manual steering box are different from the power steering versions...

...and does the manual steering box contain oil? Chapter 46-070 reconditioning of manual steering box doesn't seem to mention it.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #4  
Old 11-05-2013, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
You can also do an easy drain of the whole system sans / zonder / without the turkey baster fiasco by doing this =>

What a feeling it will be! A properly adjusted W123 / W116 / W126 power steering box
As far as draining the power box, I found that letting it drain that way with the wheel all the way to the left doesn't get it all out -- after it was done draining with the wheel turned all the way to the left, I turned it all the way to the right and, to my surprise, more stuff started coming out! Once that was done, I went back to the left again and got a bit more out. Also, when the front end is slightly inclined on jacks, fluid WILL hit a steering component once the flow starts to ebb -- maybe the Pitman arm, maybe something else, I don't remember -- and get splashed all over the area under the car! So be careful .
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  #5  
Old 11-05-2013, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Jooseppi Luna View Post
As far as draining the power box, I found that letting it drain that way with the wheel all the way to the left doesn't get it all out -- after it was done draining with the wheel turned all the way to the left, I turned it all the way to the right and, to my surprise, more stuff started coming out! Once that was done, I went back to the left again and got a bit more out. Also, when the front end is slightly inclined on jacks, fluid WILL hit a steering component once the flow starts to ebb -- maybe the Pitman arm, maybe something else, I don't remember -- and get splashed all over the area under the car! So be careful .
Oh don't get me wrong I don't think you'll get absolutely everything out of a steering box this way but you will get quite a lot more than just sucking stuff out of the top of the system at the power steering pump.

Here's a picture of the amount of fluid you'll find in the steering box when you pull it to bits



Still quite a bit!

(Taken from this thread W201 steering box refresh and adjust)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #6  
Old 11-13-2013, 08:59 PM
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So deliveryvalve sent me 4 lightly used preposterously non rusted california shocks which I've installed. Also swapped out a front caliper to match both sides, repacked bearings, and put a brand new rotor on the passenger side. (Did a new rotor driver side 3 months ago before body work). Existing rotor was warped and causing a lot of vibration. Also weirdly pitted with rust in places

Thing feels like a new car with the shocks though, I can't believe the ride difference. Its amazing how used you can get to bad shocks.

I figure I had one good shock, driver rear. The fronts were tired, driver front had a worn lower connection, making noises, and passenger rear was entirely blown.
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Old 11-13-2013, 11:24 PM
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I think I saw a bit of rust on the shock bodies?

Glad they worked out despite some missing bits.


.
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  #8  
Old 11-14-2013, 11:06 AM
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I think I saw a bit of rust on the shock bodies?

Glad they worked out despite some missing bits.


.
worked out perfectly, the missing bits happened to be the only good bits I had on my existing shocks. I ended up with one extra bushing in total.
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Old 11-14-2013, 11:11 AM
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...... Also swapped out a front caliper to match both sides, repacked bearings, and put a brand new rotor on the passenger side. (Did a new rotor driver side 3 months ago before body work). Existing rotor was warped and causing a lot of vibration. Also weirdly pitted with rust in places
here was the existing rotor, causing considerable vibration, and the nice new one


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Old 11-22-2013, 09:33 AM
JB3 JB3 is offline
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so a few updates.

Finally installed a new car stereo. I recommend the Sony CDX-GT57UP.

Primary reason is the stock lighting is exactly the same shade of red as the manual climate control knobs. looks good.


Also, I hadn't mentioned, but id proposed a long term maintenance contract with the previous owner of the car last january.
This contract was worded as a "marriage", and the contract stipulates continued vehicular maintenance and repair. Official terms of the contract were agreed to and rings of office exchanged this last weekend.

To establish a base line on vehicle condition, a 1200 mile road trip in this car was embarked upon to test its systems. The only failure was an injector return line, instantly repaired as part of my contractual obligations.

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  #11  
Old 11-22-2013, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by JB3 View Post
...

Also, I hadn't mentioned, but id proposed a long term maintenance contract with the previous owner of the car last january.
This contract was worded as a "marriage", and the contract stipulates continued vehicular maintenance and repair. Official terms of the contract were agreed to and rings of office exchanged this last weekend.

To establish a base line on vehicle condition, a 1200 mile road trip in this car was embarked upon to test its systems. The only failure was an injector return line, instantly repaired as part of my contractual obligations.


Congratulation! May you have a very long, heathy and happy life together! As well as a very long, healthy and happy maintenance contract!
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  #12  
Old 11-22-2013, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by JB3 View Post
so a few updates.

Finally installed a new car stereo. I recommend the Sony CDX-GT57UP.

Primary reason is the stock lighting is exactly the same shade of red as the manual climate control knobs. looks good.


Also, I hadn't mentioned, but id proposed a long term maintenance contract with the previous owner of the car last january.
This contract was worded as a "marriage", and the contract stipulates continued vehicular maintenance and repair. Official terms of the contract were agreed to and rings of office exchanged this last weekend.

To establish a base line on vehicle condition, a 1200 mile road trip in this car was embarked upon to test its systems. The only failure was an injector return line, instantly repaired as part of my contractual obligations.

Congrats!
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  #13  
Old 11-23-2013, 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by JB3 View Post
so a few updates.

Finally installed a new car stereo. I recommend the Sony CDX-GT57UP.

Primary reason is the stock lighting is exactly the same shade of red as the manual climate control knobs. looks good.


Also, I hadn't mentioned, but id proposed a long term maintenance contract with the previous owner of the car last january.
This contract was worded as a "marriage", and the contract stipulates continued vehicular maintenance and repair. Official terms of the contract were agreed to and rings of office exchanged this last weekend.

To establish a base line on vehicle condition, a 1200 mile road trip in this car was embarked upon to test its systems. The only failure was an injector return line, instantly repaired as part of my contractual obligations.

Congrats John!
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