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  #16  
Old 02-25-2012, 12:15 AM
JamesDean's Avatar
Electrical Engineer
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 5,038
I'd give the shift kit a go. Install the firmest level of spring for both K1/K2. Thats what I did. It was pretty easy. I think that would help you greatly.

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(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
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  #17  
Old 02-25-2012, 02:35 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 79
I've already replaced the K1
The kit has firmer springs than the factory kit(it was cheap like borsch)
Should I just go buy the K2 kit and do it rather than buy the whole works
I found a place about 45min out of town that has the full kit

I'm really only having problems with the 2/3 shift, even with the vacuum off

I currently have the modulator turned in (firmed up) 2 whole turns
I'm going to go poke around
I just did the fluid, filter and K1 about a week and a half back, oh joy oh bliss!!..I guess I'm about ready to drain it all again etc etc

It shifts much worse when cold (won't even make the 2-3 shift)
and gets better when warm
It has the proper amount of new fluid
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  #18  
Old 02-25-2012, 03:13 AM
JamesDean's Avatar
Electrical Engineer
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 5,038
The springs in the kit from Superior are stronger than the K1 kit's springs. Actually the K1 kit get replaced entirely with a single spring. Same thing with the K2.

It does suck to have to drain and get under the car again. The superior kit eliminated all my flaring/slipping when no vac was applied.
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Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out.
Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability!

(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k
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  #19  
Old 02-26-2012, 09:01 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 79
Aha!!
I discovered something crucial
The older vacuum pump I had was measuring low about 3-5 HG
I noticed this by deciding to use the mityvac as a guage (I didn't know i could...eek)

So I was not leaking enough vacuum off at the VCV

the other thing I noticed using the mighty vac was that when I was leaking no vacuum at the VCV it measured about 18 going to the tranny..way too much

So I measured right after the dashpot and there I got over 20 HG...pretty well full vacuum!

I can adjust the VCV to send the proper 12 HG to 0 to the tranny but then I'm generating a constant leak at the VCV just to maintain it at around 11-12HG at idle

So I need a restrictive orifice (like in those blue movies!) prior to the dashpot to restrict the flow of vacuum to a decent level
Does mercedes have them?
Can I make one pretty easy?
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  #20  
Old 02-27-2012, 01:19 AM
SpecialDelivery's Avatar
SWFL Benz Clubbin...
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Cape Coral, FL
Posts: 393
@Toxophilite umpteen times, welcome to the forum...I've found all the info I needed to fix my flaring issues here...and on a couple of other forums, but this one in particular was the most helpful, and indispensable for parts

you need to get a pressure gauge from your local hardware store, some 3/16 vinyl tubing and a banjo bolt..from the intake manifold of a junk yard car read this post..

Transmission Modulator Adjustment - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum

sorry i can't find the post with the pics right now but you really dont need them anyway

I had low pressure, replacing the modulator and the pin was a 30 dollar fix that cured my flaring issue...from 3 to 4, some vcv adjustments took the 2 to 3 from slight to noticeable to not at all...

remember the measurements you see for vacuum and pressure are guidelines or factory settings for a NEW trans, not one with x miles on it so you will have to "tune" your set up...see BC on this forum for if you can disable / eliminate your 3/2 valve from what I understand it only controls the EGR and if you've plugged it you might not need to use the 3/2 valving at all...and might want to sign up for an EGR blockoff kit...search on the forum


IF you do all this and STILL have issues then you might want to look at the Superior kit...I bought one and dont need it now...for now.

Even the local "foreign car" shop that works on old benz's didnt want to rebuild my trans...after two visits while they still wont rebuild my trans if it needs to be done, after seeing that I got it shifting right, the older brother offered to "mentor" me if I needed to bring in a junkyard pull to rebuild....it's pretty cool to fix something and earn respect of pros

good luck and while there are people here who are WAY more experienced and knowledgeable than I am, I surely will do what I can to help you getting your car driving right as well....read read read my brother and dont give up...and dont let anyone tell you that " you need a full rebuild" because you probably dont
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  #21  
Old 02-27-2012, 02:55 AM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
@Toxophilite doesn't the "angry thread" answer your questions? (The one that was linked by Charmalu)

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