Sloppy hub driver rear wheel. 1979 240d - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

sethza · #1 02-16-2012, 02:38 PM

hey guys,

Recently noticed a squealing noise from my rear end(of my 79 240d). With the axle up in the air and my hands each at opposite ends of the drivers' rear wheel, there is about 1/8 of an inch of play side to side. Do I have to rebuild my hub and replace my bearings NOW, or is there a way to easily and temporarily tighten it up so that the car can be driven for a few days first. I found a great link on replacing the bearings on 123s, but it will be a few days before I can get to it and before the special tools get shipped. The bearings in their current loose state only were driven for a couple miles, so maybe their not trashed yet...I'm not sure. What is your experience with this?

Seth

andrewjtx · #2 02-16-2012, 03:35 PM

No. Rebuild NOW. It's possible that the hub is already damaged it to replace new us unGODLY expensive. Finding good used ones is hard as well. No one wants to take the time to remove them from the trailing arms.

Actually, a lot of times, you're better off just swapping in good trailing arms from a donor car. Just requires pulling the axle and brake parts and a handful of bolts. Best to find the DIY on rear-end R&R.

vstech · #3 02-16-2012, 04:06 PM

you don't want to wait long...

being in AZ, you likely have zero rust under there, and it'd be a shame to destroy one...

if there are pnp's around you, it's pretty easy to pull one from a donor, any 123/126 from 78-85 will fit.
I don't know if a 116 trailing arm fits or not...

then you could rebuild yours on your own timeframe...

sethza · #4 02-17-2012, 01:13 AM

I've got the special tool and bearings on their way. There's a lot of play, hopefully I didn't totally trash the hub. Perhaps it's been loose for a while, and just recently started making noise...

If its trashed ill just buy a junkyard hub and use the tool and parts to preemptively rebuild that. Logical? What am I looking for when I get in there?

rscurtis · #5 02-17-2012, 10:39 AM

After you do the right one, do the other side.

Diesel911 · #6 02-29-2012, 10:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sethza

I've got the special tool and bearings on their way. There's a lot of play, hopefully I didn't totally trash the hub. Perhaps it's been loose for a while, and just recently started making noise...

If its trashed ill just buy a junkyard hub and use the tool and parts to preemptively rebuild that. Logical? What am I looking for when I get in there?

If you do not have one you are supposed to used a Dial Indicator to set up the end Play.

Don't beat the Hub out from the inside out because the Hub is very thin there; where the threads are.
What is your pan to remove the Old Hub. Army had an intresting setup to pull the hub out but I used the old Brake Rotor installed reverse and beat it out with a big Hammer.

If the other side is still OK I would leave it alone until it has a problem; but, keep the Special Pin Socket. Beating off the Hub damages the Bearings.

A new rear Hub is around $350 and left and right I belive have different part numbers. It is a lot of work/effort to get the Hub off I am not sure I would want ot do that at a Junk Yard.

Stretch · #7 02-17-2012, 11:12 AM

Here you go

PeachPartsWiki: Replacing the Rear Wheel Bearings

I advise you not to knock it out with a hammer and punch as described in this DIY though. The chances of causing more damage are greater if you do.

sethza · #8 02-17-2012, 12:30 PM

^^cool, thats the thread I was reading earlier. I'll just ask the questions I need to ask when I get there. Going to have to get a dial indicator for this...
How would it come out without a drift and hammer?

Stretch · #9 02-17-2012, 03:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sethza

^^cool, thats the thread I was reading earlier. I'll just ask the questions I need to ask when I get there. Going to have to get a dial indicator for this...
How would it come out without a drift and hammer?

Now I'm glad you asked that...

The FSM wants you to use a special tool => a press to remove the hub from the trailing arm

I made my own out of wood - worked a treat

W123 rear wheel bearing removal help needed

You can also make your own special tool to do the bearing races - scroll the bottom of the DIY and click on "discuss this DIY here" and you go to the original thread => towards the end of the thread you'll see a special tool made by vitop (post 69)

sethza · #10 02-29-2012, 08:09 PM

I'm using the thread recommended for replacing the rear wheel bearings, this one here: Replacing the rear wheel bearings on a W123, W126
I ordered the special tool and bearing kit, and am following the instructions from this thread and from other threads as closely as possible. However, upon starting this procedure I immediately caught a snag. Specifically, I encountered trouble pulling the axle out from behind hub. There is a picture of what I'm talking about. I can tap it out to where its no longer interfaced with the hub, but then it wont budge beyond that. It wont move enough to clear the flange. Do I need to remove the entire axle?

vstech · #11 02-29-2012, 10:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sethza

I'm using the thread recommended for replacing the rear wheel bearings, this one here: Replacing the rear wheel bearings on a W123, W126
I ordered the special tool and bearing kit, and am following the instructions from this thread and from other threads as closely as possible. However, upon starting this procedure I immediately caught a snag. Specifically, I encountered trouble pulling the axle out from behind hub. There is a picture of what I'm talking about. I can tap it out to where its no longer interfaced with the hub, but then it wont budge beyond that. It wont move enough to clear the flange. Do I need to remove the entire axle?

...remove the 4 bolts that hold the differential up, then lower the differential/subframe until the axle clears the hub.