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  #46  
Old 04-26-2012, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 97 SL320 View Post
If the car is pushed sideways things can bend. Also take a close look at the LF wheel / tire for damage, an impact to the wheel can " steer " the wheel and bend the steering arm. I know on the 124 / 129 the arms bolt to the spindle and are pretty thin, not sure about your car.

Don't adjust anything yet, the body shop / alignment guy will want it in its original form. If the control arm is bent or the mountings tweaked, changing / pulling those parts will bring the toe very close to specs. This way they will know the problem is found.

Out of alignment is caused by something bending, if slight the adjusters are turned and things recover, if bent too far parts need to be changed. With your car I don't expect anything too drastic since the wheel is more or less intact.
OK, that makes sense. I am taking it to my indy tomorrow, though he's not sure he can look at it until next week (more anxious waiting for me). I did not even think of the arm between the steering knuckle and tie rod (not sure why, I guess I was so focused on the LCA, linkage and frame!) ... now that I'm looking at the FSM I can see how that would bend. I'll have to look at it more closely, but will let my indy assess it.
I think what happened was since my wheels were turned slightly to the right (since I was in a right-hand turn lane) he must have hit the part of my tire that was sticking out. There is a mark on one side of the tire that fits that theory.
I'm eager to find out the damage so I can plan the next step, or look for parts if I need to.

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  #47  
Old 04-26-2012, 09:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BodhiBenz1987 View Post
I'm eager to find out the damage so I can plan the next step, or look for parts if I need to.
It's times like this that I wish I had done a better job of stripped that W124 all those years ago (I would have gladly given you the doors!)
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  #48  
Old 04-26-2012, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Fulcrum525 View Post
It's times like this that I wish I had done a better job of stripped that W124 all those years ago (I would have gladly given you the doors!)
I actually have two doors from an 88 300E I got from fellow forum member Hanno a couple years ago ... but they're from the other side of the car. I do have a mirror assembly, fender and many moulding bits.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
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2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
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  #49  
Old 04-27-2012, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BodhiBenz1987 View Post
I actually have two doors from an 88 300E I got from fellow forum member Hanno a couple years ago ... but they're from the other side of the car. I do have a mirror assembly, fender and many moulding bits.
This time you should get two extra doors for the driver side to be sure you never need them.
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  #50  
Old 04-27-2012, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by gatorblue92 View Post
This time you should get two extra doors for the driver side to be sure you never need them.
I don't think that that will ever work - I bet even vstech, who must have every cubby hole stuffed full of car parts, has to buy parts. It's called sod's law - you only need the part you haven't got.
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  #51  
Old 04-27-2012, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by gatorblue92 View Post
This time you should get two extra doors for the driver side to be sure you never need them.
Its known as a parts car !!
problem is everything you need will be missing from the parts car ~ as explained by Army !
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  #52  
Old 04-27-2012, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by layback40 View Post
Its known as a parts car !!
problem is everything you need will be missing from the parts car ~ as explained by Army !
x3.

For my work van, I have 4 sets of front fenders for both sides, 2 hoods, 2 drivers doors, and a sliding door. Problem is that the only door and panel that ever gets hit is the passenger door, of which I have zero spares, and can never find any.

I finally found a replacement door for that, but I can almost guarantee that once I fix its rust and hang it, someone will hit it.
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  #53  
Old 04-27-2012, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Army View Post
I don't think that that will ever work - I bet even vstech, who must have every cubby hole stuffed full of car parts, has to buy parts. It's called sod's law - you only need the part you haven't got.
exactly, that's why he said to buy the other doors...

to be sure the other side NEVER gets hit!!!
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  #54  
Old 04-27-2012, 04:00 PM
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You can have the rear driver's side door off my parts car, but it's teal, it's stripped of all internal parts already, and it's here (Northern Virginia). My parts car has no driver's door. It might not be cost effective for you to ship an MB door in a mannaer thaqt ensures it won't be dqamaged. I would nevertheless suggest you get replacement doors from a donor of the same original color. That way the paint will have faded the same over the years, etc.

Also, as long as you're working on the car, I can cut out the rockers at the jack ports if you're interested having those to weld in. My parts car is a 1991, so it has the rocker covers and I can't be 100% positive there is no rust there until I pull the covers off, but I believe that they are rust free based on the condition of the rest of the car.

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  #55  
Old 04-27-2012, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by vstech View Post
PS, I will gladly donate some parts if it will help get Bodhi back on the road!!!

FANTASTIC to hear the insurance is being cooperative!!!

Don't forget my offer. My dark gold 90 300E is undamaged on the driver's side, and has ANYTHING you would need. I'm happy to toss it into the pay it forward thread for ya!
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #56  
Old 04-28-2012, 01:39 AM
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Thanks so much for the door offers, guys! I'll let you know when I get to the body repair step of the road back. I figured I'd start with the suspension because if that's fixed, I can drive it to body shops to get estimates (and find out if I need both doors or just the rear). Will the later-w124 doors work OK with the old-style trim? They look like they have the same structure aside from the trim. Hopefully the body shop will be willing to let me supply the door(s). I haven't had a lot of experience with body shops, so I'm not sure how flexible they generally are. I'd love it if they could do the big stuff, and I can take care of compounding, replacing trim and all the "elbow grease" stuff. I think while I'm at it I'll work on some of the little rust spots that need touching up. Paul, I do have some rockers from a 92 400E I also got from Hanno, but haven't gotten around to learning to weld and install them (maybe a good time for me to try) ... thanks for the offer!
Well, Bodhi is with my indy now. I drove slowly on lower-traffic roads all the way with my dad just ahead making sure I didn't have trouble ... not the most relaxing drive I've ever had! My indy didn't see anything bent on first glance, but agreed that wheel is quite toe in. Another clue is the front end of the cars climbs up when the car rolls forward, and goes back down when backed up. My dad had to explain to me why toe-in would do that, but at least I'm getting a physics lesson. My indy did also suggest it could be a bent spindle. He's going to look at it more closely, and have the alignment specialists take a look. I'm really eager to find out what's wrong.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #57  
Old 04-28-2012, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by BodhiBenz1987 View Post
Paul, I do have some rockers from a 92 400E I also got from Hanno, but haven't gotten around to learning to weld and install them (maybe a good time for me to try) ... thanks for the offer!
May I suggest that you get yourself a heap of junk steel to practice welding for a long while before trying on your car. start with 1/4" thick sections & when you become proficient, try thinner bits. It is a real art to weld something like on your car. Not the sort of thing for a first welding project.
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1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
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  #58  
Old 04-28-2012, 09:45 AM
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Bodhi, If you need any body or suspension parts come get them. Cost is your labor to help remove. Only issue is they are on a 1995 so trim holes may be different on the panels.

Hanno
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  #59  
Old 04-28-2012, 01:17 PM
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All the trim holes should be the same.
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  #60  
Old 04-28-2012, 09:02 PM
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Hanno, if the parts are compatible that would certainly be convenient! Thanks, I'll let you know.
Layback, don't worry, I'd definitely want to get a lot of practice in before trying to weld the rockers. I just meant it'd be a good time to get started in the learning process.

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1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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