Do you ever try to roll up multiple windows at the same time?

I thought w126s had that little pad thingy to "attempt" to limit the travel of the regulator. Of course, I agree with BC --- the motor always wins over the regulator. I can't tell you how many stripped out regulator gears I've seen --- hundreds?

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daw_two
Germantown, TN

Links:
Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
No longer selling Cluster Needles Paint
No longer selling New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more

Honestly, I think I would prefer it. I had a right rear regulator go out on the 92 300D (and that has the limiting device in the circuit....so Brian can't send me to button pushing school for that one). And we had a regulator go out on our Honda Odyssey at only 40,000 miles!

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14 E250 Bluetec 4Matic "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 159k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 179k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver on Tan, 145k mi, wastegate conversion, ALDA delete

19 Honda CR-V EX 77k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife

That would be against the law on a W126.

ohhhh nooo mine just started doing this a few days ago and stops 2 inches from the top.... do i need a new regulator or can you just replace the teeth on it...

Yes as long as they are on the same side of the car. Takes skill and high speed dexterity only possessed by the video game generation.

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

You will need a new regulator....they can go quite a while like that if careful with them....

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

haha, what happens with mine if I press on it too long is that the window will get stuck and won't respond to the switch anymore. I then have to remove the door card and "loosen" the regulator bolts... give it a few thumps then it's ok again. Quite a hassle really... and this is a w124.

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85 190E 2.3(SOLD)
86 230E (-->300D) sold
87 300D (-->300TD) sold
68 250S w/ a 615 and manual tranny (RIP)
87 300TD (SOLD)
95 S280 "The KRAKEN" (Turbo 2.9 602 transplant) traded
86 190E 2.3... current project

my drivers window got pretty bad. its the most used after all. anyway. I had the door panel off one night and was looking at how the regulator came out of the door. looked like it was gonna be at least an hours job... then I looked across the garage at the mig welder. Stuck that some-bat up in there and welded onto the missing teeth, then took a triangle file to them. 15 min later the window works perfect. that was 4 years ago. now I get the pop sound on the last tooth. I'm pretty good about not holding down the button but others are not. so sooner or later I gotta get the welder back in there and replace the last tooth again.

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SirNik84, I have not seen any posts recently about your car. Sorry to all about going off topic.
Alan

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92 500E Silver 66k
82 Porsche 911SC 84K
68 Cadillac ( Gone Now )
03 Suburban Z71 200K
85 300SD 217k From Original Owner ( Dad )

--------off topic-------------

LOL thanks for asking Alan. Shes been taking me to work!!!!! I know I know crazy! also I've developed this habit of not poping the hood while fueling up... the oil tends to stay where I left it.

I had some issues with the transmission, but I installed a questionable junkyard trans to start with... so in installed another questionable junkyard trans when the first one failed. I just finished rebuilding the transmission for my 83 Tercel 4WD next up I rebuild the old iron box 4 speed thats in my car now. I have 2 of them under my bench waiting for this project to start. I promis there will be a post and pics about the transmission rebuild.

------return to topic---------

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I'm doing some restoration work on an '85 300TD, and I've been told that the regulators are similar to those in the 126. Here are a few pics of the regulators I pulled out of that car--major warpage:











Note that in the last two pics, the regulators were trying to rip themselves out of the doors. Three of the four regulators were toast, and the fourth was only good because it had been recently replaced. The owner had me swap the car over to manual winders. I wouldn't do something this drastic with a 124, but on this car it just made sense.

Interesting ... this week I've been fiddling with the rear window on my 124 and noticed the fact that the inside of the door panel flexes out when the window hits the top limit. I thought maybe it had something to do with the door being hit, or something about the new (used) regulator. The rear windows had not budged at least since my dad gave me the car (almost 10 years ago) so I never observed its previous function. The front windows don't seem to do the same. I'll find out what the other rear does when I get a chance to replace that regulator.

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

Our 85 300D was cracked in the same place. the metal can be tweeked just so many times and it will start to crack. that just shows you how much torque the motor puts on the regulator and sheet metal.

looks like there is a crack also diagnally going up to that upper hole. If the crack is cought early enough, a hole can be drilled at the end of the crack and then welded. this will keep the crack from growing. either way it will need to be welded.

I was thinking of cutting out a piece from another door (PNP) and lay it over this section and weld it to strethen it.

The wollowed out hole is from the nut coming loose and letting the stud work in the hole.





Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

I try to let go of the switches at exactly the right time and I've still probably replaced 5-6 w126 regulators in various doors between the two cars over the last several years. They added up to the point I've just about quit fixing them unless it's the front ones.

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~Michael S.~
Past cars:

1986 300SDL
1987 300SDL
1982 240D
1982 300SD


Current:

1987 300SDL

I welded up the crack in the front door, prior to installing the manual winders...which by the way have their own confounding weaknesses.

The nuts in the rear doors didn't appear to be excessively loose, but the warping in the regulators was bowing out the door frames significantly.