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#31
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How would your process work? Do you soak the ball joint in the liquid nitrogen to shrink it? How much will it shrink by? Will a press still be required?
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#32
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I'd like to see it for myself but the airfare is a bit much at such short notice.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#33
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We put the joint in liquid nitrogen for about three minutes and then quickly set it into the spindle. The nitrogen will shrink it about .005". A press is not required. I have a bit of a concern regarding the construction of the ball joint. Any plastic components will shrink by significantly more than the steel and there could be some problems that develop with that. A safer alternative is to use dry ice. We get about .0025" of shrink and the press might still be needed, but the force required is significantly less. |
#34
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#35
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i have the cheap 99 dollar hydraulic press from harbor freight. every single ball joint and bushing i've thrown at it, it pops them apart in just a few seconds. very easy. a shop press is worthwhile investment for any diy'er.
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#36
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My guess is that you have not used your HF hydraulic press on a W123 lower ball joint yet. You will be in for a rude awakening when you do.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#37
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I checked the knocked out ball joint and the new Lemforder. They are the same length from the bottom to the flange shoulder.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#38
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Another concern is what the liquid nitrogen will do to the grease in the BJ. Liquid nitrogen or dry ice, a BJ press is still required, which begs the question: How long is the window before the BJ expands to it's room temperature dimension. My guess is the window is not long enough.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#39
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The window is obviously limited. Screwing around with a press at room temperature must be done relatively quickly (within about 1 minute or so). Unfortunately, we don't have a press that large. In all of my tools, I deal with interferences of .0005-.002"...........not more. I'm positive that a threaded tool such as the one from Autozone could never press an interference of .016". Such a tool cannot develop more than about 4,000 lb. of force. |
#40
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The knuckle hole is a taper. I was only able to measure the bottom of the taper with the caliper so the dimension 1.770 is the smaller of the two. Not sure if you can see the details in this pic. The one on the right is the old knocked out BJ, the vertical serration teeth has been crushed upon installation. Compare it to the new one on the left. I agree a lot of force is required to press it in. I got the Lemforder in with a lot of leverage. The Autozone press did the job and survived, but it's life will be limited. The threads on the ram screw is stripping. I was hoping the C clamp will not snap. It didn't. . The next time it probably will.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#41
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I borrowed the Autozone C clamp press and installed the Lemforder BJ. I used the press the same way as in some of the pics I've seen others used on the forum, except I made a centering bushing from sections of PVC pipe, elec tape to build up the PVC o.d. to fit tightly in a section of TV antenna mast, which fits snugly in the C clamp hole. The PVC hole fits snugly on the ball joint taper so it worked well centering the clamp so as to apply force more evenly on the ball joint's boot flange.
These are mockup pics with the knocked out BJ. I actually tested this setup and installed the old BJ, knocked it out again then installed the new Lemforder
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#42
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Since I do not have a big air impact wrench, I needed a lot of leverage to turn the C clamp ram screw.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#43
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New Lemforder installed.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#44
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Now I just have to figure out how to install the flat coil spring retainer for the boot without puncturing it. I bent it a little upon removal and was able to bend it back into shape. Any tips? A video would be nice.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#45
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It is 100+ dollars now but much cheper than the Klann Tool. It also comes with a big Punch to remove the Ball Joint.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
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