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  #1  
Old 08-14-2012, 03:47 PM
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I thought the Mercedes Startek website was free?

Wasn't it always like this and the only change was one needed a credit card to register but there would be no charge deducted?

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1994 S350D
1995 E300D
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  #2  
Old 08-14-2012, 03:57 PM
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The Electronic Parts Catalog (EPC) was free, but not the technical section.
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  #3  
Old 08-14-2012, 03:58 PM
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They only use the cc to verify country of origin.
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  #4  
Old 08-14-2012, 04:56 PM
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I just tried to signup and it gave me no other choice but a paying membership.
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  #5  
Old 08-14-2012, 04:58 PM
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I've been reliably informed that EPC is free for vehicles that were officially imported to the US but not for the others.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #6  
Old 08-14-2012, 05:00 PM
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How does that make any sense in this instance? When signing up for membership it does ask you anything about the car you drive or work on.
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  #7  
Old 08-14-2012, 05:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmbeam View Post
I just tried to signup and it gave me no other choice but a paying membership.
What country are you in?
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  #8  
Old 08-14-2012, 05:30 PM
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USA
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  #9  
Old 08-14-2012, 09:24 PM
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What are you trying to access? I can get to the FSMs without registering - Untitled Document

Sadly there's no classic FSM for the 140 or 210. Is WIS available online?

Sixto
87 300D^2
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  #10  
Old 08-14-2012, 10:27 PM
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Hey SIXTO,

I was only looking to register to see what is available to help me work on my w124 and 140 Mercedes. Right now I need to replace my Vacuum pump on my 1994 S350D. Thanks
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  #11  
Old 08-14-2012, 10:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmbeam View Post
How does that make any sense in this instance? When signing up for membership it does ask you anything about the car you drive or work on.
You have to put in a VIN once you are in it to search for parts. Unless you pay, it only accepts US VINs. You can put in as many VINs as you want as long as they are all US.
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  #12  
Old 08-14-2012, 11:08 PM
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603s use the same pump. The only close-to-relevant difference between a 603.96/3.0 and 603.97/3.5 in this case is the extra serpentine belt idler the .97 has above the vacuum pump. Here's the closest I can find; the section for a 91 350SD - http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12253/program/Chassis/43-0618.pdf

Even at no cost that isn't your money's worth. Nary a torque spec. You can check the archives for someone's notes. Here's my version:

- Release shroud from radiator
- Hang shroud on fan
- Use pulley holder or Harbor Freight tool on water pump pulley
- Use 8mm bit to release clutch fan from pulley (easier said than done)
- Remove fan and pulley; store fan upright
- Remove power steering pulley, use a bar against 2 bolts to loosen the third
- Remove serpentine belt
- Set engine to #1 TDC
- Disconnect threaded brake booster vacuum line from vacuum pump; check valve stays with the pump!
- Disconnect ancillary vacuum line (5-way splitter) from vacuum pump
- Loosen 6 10mm head bolts holding vacuum pump to front cover a half turn at a time; don't loosen the 13mm head bolts!
- Remove vacuum pump and gasket
- Check roller coaster cam on IP timer - if not perfectly smooth, post pictures on forum for advice
- Identify and remove 3 13mm head bolts holding gold colored assembly basket to front cover
- Decision point = you have a choice of a metal outline gasket, fiber outline gasket or metal dam gasket. Pierburg pumps come with a dam gasket. A dam gasket is required on early 603s which a 603.97 1/3.5 isn't. You cannot install the basket with the dam gasket but keep the bakset to facilitate IP and IP timer removal and installation in the future.
- Attach new vacuum pump and dam gasket to front cover; I've only used metal gaskets and I install them dry; start each of the 6 10mm head bolts a few turns
- Tighten the 6 10mm head bolts a half turn at a time; I use the sequence for a 6-lug wheel
- I tighten by feel with my hand very close to the head of a ratchet; I'm guessing the torque spec to be no more than 20 lbft; continuing with the sequence for a 6-lug wheel



- The rest is the reverse of removal

Sixto
87 300D^2
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  #13  
Old 08-14-2012, 11:17 PM
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Thanks Brother I appreciate the effort. Cya Jim
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  #14  
Old 08-14-2012, 11:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foolio View Post
You have to put in a VIN once you are in it to search for parts. Unless you pay, it only accepts US VINs. You can put in as many VINs as you want as long as they are all US.
That's for http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/epc.startekinfo.com, and I've used it without submitting a VIN. I think jmbeam is looking in www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/doclist.jsp for FSMs.

Sixto
87 300D^2
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  #15  
Old 08-15-2012, 12:10 PM
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I'd like to ask another question. My car seems to start and run pretty good however there is no power and the tranny does not shift right plus the turbo seems to be not operating. Are these all symptoms of a bad vacuum pump?

I also heard that when these go bad that it can destroy the engine. I do hear a sound like ball bearings rattling around. Where could these go and what should I do to protect the engine? Thanks

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