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  #1  
Old 11-24-2013, 12:18 AM
Stretch's Avatar
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compu_85 View Post
Well that was not a success.

Let's start off with what I did:

Drained fluid, dropped pan, removed VB.

Took VB to the shop, turned it over, removed the screws, flipped it again, began working on the lower portion.


According to my notes there was no spring to the left of piston #57 (B1 Control Valve) on my car originally. When I installed the shift kit I added a spring here. I removed this spring.

I put the side plate back on, and screwed the valve bodies back together.

I removed the cover plate on the side of the upper valve body and removed the throttle valve.



I removed the red spring from the kit that is to the right of "Part 45!" on the picture, and put back the original spring - at least I think it was the original spring. It was similar in size and diameter to the spring I removed, and matches the picture.

I put the side plate back on, put the VB back in the car, put on the pan, and added the first gallon of Mobil 1 Delvac ATF (what I had in previously). I began adding the 2nd gallon but noticed a dripping sound when there were two quarts remaining in the bottle. I stopped adding fluid, and noticed fluid dripping out of the back of the transmission. From the vent perhaps??? At this point I started the engine (I know I should have done this before).

With the engine running I checked the dipstick. It was hard to read, but I think the level was just a bit above normal. The car is on ramps and my driveway is not level, so I wasn't worried about this. I put the car into R and it seemed to go into gear. Tried D. It went into gear, but there was an odd hissing / bearing sound. Tried backing up. The car moved about a foot then stopped. It would not roll backwards, even though it was down hill, with the selector in R. In N the car would roll. Back to D, odd sound again.

Checked the level and it seems normal. I pulled the car (forward) back on the ramps and shut it off.

One thing that's interesting to me is that when I did this job before I used both gallons completely which put the fluid level exactly perfect. Is it possible I somehow got a bunch of air into the fluid?

Any advice appreciated.

-J

Wow you have been busy!

Before we get bogged down with the should the spring be there or not issue I think the fluid in the transmission is the biggest problem at the moment.

The vent on the 722.3 is low down and at the back of the transmission



If you tip the front end of the car and fill the transmission (through the dip stick as you should) then you will quite quickly pour it out of the back end.

The first and most important thing to do - before you assess the missing spring issue - is to make sure the fluid level is correct.

I think you are better off draining it all again and then putting the correct amount back in with the car on a level surface. Is that possible? Or is it just hills for miles and miles where you are?
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #2  
Old 11-23-2013, 05:34 PM
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Cruisin on Electric Ave.
 
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Location: La Conner, WA
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I mentioned before I put some hard drive magnets in the pan when I installed the kit.



In that picture I've cleaned the single magnet off, the 2 next to each other are not cleaned. They have a nice layer of gook stuck to them - more then I would have expected for only running for a few thousand miles. The straight line down the middle is a clean spot where the poles meet.
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  #3  
Old 11-24-2013, 09:15 AM
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I can get the car nearly level and then try to fill again. Need to go get a clean catch container... don't want to throw away $100 in fluid.

-J
__________________
1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket

Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states!
Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels.
2014 Cadillac ELR
2013 Fiat 500E.
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  #4  
Old 11-24-2013, 02:12 PM
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I feel your pain - transmission fluid costs (of the good stuff) has increased by about 60% here in the last three years.

Do you filter it before putting it back in? Or are you planning to do so?
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #5  
Old 11-24-2013, 03:39 PM
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Cruisin on Electric Ave.
 
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Considering it's only been in the trans for a day and 0 miles I was not planning on filtering it.

Just finished doing some yardwork / cleanup so I could pull the car into a semi sheltered area... debating if I want to work on this anymore today or just wait until sometime next week.
__________________
1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket

Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states!
Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels.
2014 Cadillac ELR
2013 Fiat 500E.
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  #6  
Old 11-25-2013, 06:40 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2009
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In my experience you're quite likely to find debris in the oil even though it has been in there for a short time unless those magnets you installed are doing a really really fantastic job. (I hope they are - when I finish using my HDD magnets as sheet metal welding clamps they might get a second life in a transmission oil pan)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #7  
Old 11-25-2013, 09:09 PM
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Cruisin on Electric Ave.
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: La Conner, WA
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I drained out the fluid I could through the plug, got about 88oz worth. I put it into clear glass containers, and didn't see any contaminates in the fluid at all. Pushed the car off the ramps, checked the dipstick, none showed. Started the car, there was no engagement in D or R. Kept adding fluid until I had put it all back in, which put the level at the bottom line. Same problem... no movement in R and an odd sound in D.

Of course as the car was idling the serp tensioner shock overheated and barfed all of its oil out. That made a nice stinky smoke cloud. At least it didn't catch fire.

I'm getting closer and closer to parting the car out. It seems like any time I fix one thing 2 other things break

The car is on jackstands for now, fluid draining. I'll tear into the valve body again tomorrow.

Thanks,

-J
__________________
1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket

Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states!
Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels.
2014 Cadillac ELR
2013 Fiat 500E.
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  #8  
Old 11-26-2013, 02:06 AM
Stretch's Avatar
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Join Date: Sep 2009
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I think you are better off putting some oil in it before you start the engine.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #9  
Old 11-26-2013, 09:54 PM
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Cruisin on Electric Ave.
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: La Conner, WA
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So some progress tonight! Pulled the valve body and put the spring back in. I also found an error I made when I installed the kit: I put the springs on the wrong side of #52! My trans originally had springs on both sides of #52, I got confused and put the single replacement spring on the "inside" of the piston, not the "outside" facing the retaining plate.

I don't have enough trans fluid to get the level correct... just enough to get to the loop on the bottom of the dipstick. I'll get more fluid tomorrow and report back.

-J
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  #10  
Old 11-27-2013, 03:14 AM
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Oh one thing I forgot to mention - and it is really late to say it now (sorry) - but the gasket on to which the valve body fits could probably do with a change. Apparently these leak and cause all sorts of trouble. Something to consider if try #XXX doesn't work.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #11  
Old 11-27-2013, 09:45 AM
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Cruisin on Electric Ave.
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: La Conner, WA
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I asked a friend on TDIClub who used to rebuild 722.3's professionally if he had any documentation on the valve bodies. This was his response:

Quote:
Originally Posted by CoolAirVw
sorry I got nothing.
I'm very familier with 722.3 as we used to rebuild for Hafkenmeyer motors who is a BMW/Mercedes speciality shop but there are hundreds of minor differences and most documentation just covers one "code", and says "others may differ. Pay attention as you take it apart".

good luck with that.
You'll also note that these 2 diagrams show the # 52 piston facing the opposite direction:





The first diagram matches what Stretch found in his trans. Neither matches mine!

-J
__________________
1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket

Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states!
Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels.
2014 Cadillac ELR
2013 Fiat 500E.
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  #12  
Old 11-27-2013, 10:04 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
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Oh for f$#%$^k's sake - do you want my valve body? In the next few weeks I can probably find time to put it back together again for you and post it if you really need it. Postage will probably be about 40 euros by surface mail though and will take for...

...ev...

...errrrrrrrrr...

...if you wanted it quicker you'd probably be able to find one nearer to you for the cost of a UPS type shipping service.



As mine is in bits I could measure the lengths of the valves and the springs to see if we can make any sense of it all. I think may be that will be the better option. A bit of long distance team work and head scratching could make it good. (Whilst you look for another valve body - just in case! Who was it with a transmission going begging down the side of his house recently?)
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #13  
Old 11-27-2013, 11:53 AM
compu_85's Avatar
Cruisin on Electric Ave.
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: La Conner, WA
Posts: 5,250
If it ends up not working once I get fluid it in I'll just replace the whole trans with the one the member in Ohio is selling Just a few hours of work left then I get to find out!

I don't think your valve body would work for my trans anyway, but I appreciate the offer! Perhaps some of the difference is how your trans rests in 2nd but shifts to 1st as soon as you touch the throttle, whereas mine rests in 1st?

_J
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  #14  
Old 11-27-2013, 01:57 PM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
Quote:
Originally Posted by compu_85 View Post
If it ends up not working once I get fluid it in I'll just replace the whole trans with the one the member in Ohio is selling Just a few hours of work left then I get to find out!

I don't think your valve body would work for my trans anyway, but I appreciate the offer! Perhaps some of the difference is how your trans rests in 2nd but shifts to 1st as soon as you touch the throttle, whereas mine rests in 1st?

_J
I haven't a clue about that functionality. I've read the generic "this is how it is meant to work" information in chapter 27 but it doesn't go into specific type details describing variations on the theme. Transmissions aren't a black art - it is just the documentation isn't that great or widely available.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #15  
Old 11-27-2013, 02:38 PM
compu_85's Avatar
Cruisin on Electric Ave.
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: La Conner, WA
Posts: 5,250
Great success! Moves off in first gear, gets all the forward gears and reverse
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