722.303 in bits photo shoot - Page 7 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Stretch · #91 05-13-2013, 01:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by compu_85

Stretch, thanks for the pictures! They were very helpful.

I can confirm you can remove the valve body with the trans in the car, in fact it is rather easy. I left the pan empty for a few days to let it catch drips, I didn't get completely filthy as I was removing the VB from the trans.

I found some interesting things. Based on this level of goop how many miles would you say are on the trans?
...

Well I'm glad it encouraged you to do the job yourself.

I don't know if there is a goop : miles ratio! The transmission I took to bits was an unknown sold as spares / junk play thing; I have no history for it other than it was probably stored in the rain with its tail cone upper most...

Will you let us know how you get on with it when you get it all back together?

compu_85 · #92 05-13-2013, 09:55 AM

I'll be sure to update this thread. It might be a bit, I need to get a new AC Condenser before I put the radiator back in.

gsxr · #93 05-13-2013, 11:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by compu_85

I installed the superior shift kit, the instructions included are OK but could be a bit more verbose.

You are too kind. The instructions in the Superior kit are poor... borderline terrible. You have to read them about five times to figure it out and even then you're not entirely sure. Their colors don't match either... for example, when the instruction say "dark blue spring", the actual color of the spring is bright/light blue (think robin's egg blue). I need to scan/photograph the instructions, and also post a photo of the springs with the Superior color names.

That said, the kit does seem to work as advertised, but you may need to try different setups to get it shifting properly (i.e., draining & dropping the pan each time).

Stretch · #94 05-13-2013, 12:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsxr

... I need to scan/photograph the instructions, and also post a photo of the springs with the Superior color names.

...

If you could do that that would be a great benefit to all.

compu_85 · #95 05-13-2013, 01:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsxr

You are too kind. The instructions in the Superior kit are poor... borderline terrible. You have to read them about five times to figure it out and even then you're not entirely sure. Their colors don't match either...

...you may need to try different setups to get it shifting properly (i.e., draining & dropping the pan each time).

Ya, I had to "go back" several times during the install. I opted for the "first level" of each change, we'll see how it goes.

I'm partially colorblind which didn't make the install any easier... thankfully I had a color advisor to help out

It would make things a lot easier if they would just put each spring in it's own labeled bag. Or at least one bag per piston.

-J

compu_85 · #96 05-13-2013, 01:34 PM

BTW, here's what dripped out of the upper valve body while I was working on the lower one... I poured a little new fluid in the middle for a color comparison. Until I did that I didn't realize how dark the old fluid had gotten. Yes, the black streaks are goop that dripped out.

The fluid was last serviced ~20,000 miles ago.

-J

compu_85 · #97 05-27-2013, 05:34 PM

Got the car back together today. The 2-3 and 3-4 shifts are as firm as the 1-2 shift was, and are more spaced out now, it won't go into 4th until almost 40 mph. I think I need to reinstall the original 1-2 spring as that is now the softest shift, and it slips when at wot :/

Reverse works better! It still slips some though

-J

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

compu_85 · #98 11-22-2013, 11:15 PM

So I need to go back and make some changes. The "stacked shift" spring just makes the shifts happen too late. Installing the softer 1-2 and firmer 2-3 and 3-4 springs has made the 2-3 and 3-4 shifts about as firm as 1-2 was, and 1-2 wayyy to soft (such that it flares).

For the softer 1-2 my notes tell me I installed a spring where there wasn't one before. Hopefully I don't encounter any problems trying to go back 1/2 a step

-J

compu_85 · #99 11-23-2013, 05:31 PM

Well that was not a success.

Let's start off with what I did:

Drained fluid, dropped pan, removed VB.

Took VB to the shop, turned it over, removed the screws, flipped it again, began working on the lower portion.

According to my notes there was no spring to the left of piston #57 (B1 Control Valve) on my car originally. When I installed the shift kit I added a spring here. I removed this spring.

I put the side plate back on, and screwed the valve bodies back together.

I removed the cover plate on the side of the upper valve body and removed the throttle valve.

I removed the red spring from the kit that is to the right of "Part 45!" on the picture, and put back the original spring - at least I think it was the original spring. It was similar in size and diameter to the spring I removed, and matches the picture.

I put the side plate back on, put the VB back in the car, put on the pan, and added the first gallon of Mobil 1 Delvac ATF (what I had in previously). I began adding the 2nd gallon but noticed a dripping sound when there were two quarts remaining in the bottle. I stopped adding fluid, and noticed fluid dripping out of the back of the transmission. From the vent perhaps??? At this point I started the engine (I know I should have done this before).

With the engine running I checked the dipstick. It was hard to read, but I think the level was just a bit above normal. The car is on ramps and my driveway is not level, so I wasn't worried about this. I put the car into R and it seemed to go into gear. Tried D. It went into gear, but there was an odd hissing / bearing sound. Tried backing up. The car moved about a foot then stopped. It would not roll backwards, even though it was down hill, with the selector in R. In N the car would roll. Back to D, odd sound again.

Checked the level and it seems normal. I pulled the car (forward) back on the ramps and shut it off.

One thing that's interesting to me is that when I did this job before I used both gallons completely which put the fluid level exactly perfect. Is it possible I somehow got a bunch of air into the fluid?

Any advice appreciated.

-J

compu_85 · #**100** 11-23-2013, 05:34 PM

I mentioned before I put some hard drive magnets in the pan when I installed the kit.

In that picture I've cleaned the single magnet off, the 2 next to each other are not cleaned. They have a nice layer of gook stuck to them - more then I would have expected for only running for a few thousand miles. The straight line down the middle is a clean spot where the poles meet.

Stretch · #**101** 11-24-2013, 12:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by compu_85

Well that was not a success.

Let's start off with what I did:

Drained fluid, dropped pan, removed VB.

Took VB to the shop, turned it over, removed the screws, flipped it again, began working on the lower portion.

According to my notes there was no spring to the left of piston #57 (B1 Control Valve) on my car originally. When I installed the shift kit I added a spring here. I removed this spring.

I put the side plate back on, and screwed the valve bodies back together.

I removed the cover plate on the side of the upper valve body and removed the throttle valve.

I removed the red spring from the kit that is to the right of "Part 45!" on the picture, and put back the original spring - at least I think it was the original spring. It was similar in size and diameter to the spring I removed, and matches the picture.

I put the side plate back on, put the VB back in the car, put on the pan, and added the first gallon of Mobil 1 Delvac ATF (what I had in previously). I began adding the 2nd gallon but noticed a dripping sound when there were two quarts remaining in the bottle. I stopped adding fluid, and noticed fluid dripping out of the back of the transmission. From the vent perhaps??? At this point I started the engine (I know I should have done this before).

With the engine running I checked the dipstick. It was hard to read, but I think the level was just a bit above normal. The car is on ramps and my driveway is not level, so I wasn't worried about this. I put the car into R and it seemed to go into gear. Tried D. It went into gear, but there was an odd hissing / bearing sound. Tried backing up. The car moved about a foot then stopped. It would not roll backwards, even though it was down hill, with the selector in R. In N the car would roll. Back to D, odd sound again.

Checked the level and it seems normal. I pulled the car (forward) back on the ramps and shut it off.

One thing that's interesting to me is that when I did this job before I used both gallons completely which put the fluid level exactly perfect. Is it possible I somehow got a bunch of air into the fluid?

Any advice appreciated.

-J

Wow you have been busy!

Before we get bogged down with the should the spring be there or not issue I think the fluid in the transmission is the biggest problem at the moment.

The vent on the 722.3 is low down and at the back of the transmission

If you tip the front end of the car and fill the transmission (through the dip stick as you should) then you will quite quickly pour it out of the back end.

The first and most important thing to do - before you assess the missing spring issue - is to make sure the fluid level is correct.

I think you are better off draining it all again and then putting the correct amount back in with the car on a level surface. Is that possible? Or is it just hills for miles and miles where you are?

compu_85 · #**102** 11-24-2013, 09:15 AM

I can get the car nearly level and then try to fill again. Need to go get a clean catch container... don't want to throw away $100 in fluid.

-J

Stretch · #**103** 11-24-2013, 02:12 PM

I feel your pain - transmission fluid costs (of the good stuff) has increased by about 60% here in the last three years.

Do you filter it before putting it back in? Or are you planning to do so?

compu_85 · #**104** 11-24-2013, 03:39 PM

Considering it's only been in the trans for a day and 0 miles I was not planning on filtering it.

Just finished doing some yardwork / cleanup so I could pull the car into a semi sheltered area... debating if I want to work on this anymore today or just wait until sometime next week.

Stretch · #**105** 11-25-2013, 06:40 AM

In my experience you're quite likely to find debris in the oil even though it has been in there for a short time unless those magnets you installed are doing a really really fantastic job. (I hope they are - when I finish using my HDD magnets as sheet metal welding clamps they might get a second life in a transmission oil pan)