722.303 in bits photo shoot - Page 6 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Stretch · #76 09-07-2012, 12:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SuperCow

Well there some parts that have to be replaced that a normal rebuild wouldn't be needed, like the governor and drum. I think its cheaper to buy a other used 722.3?
and rebuild that?

Yeah I know - I don't really need the 722.3 - I have two 722.118s and a 722.112! This was partly just a bit of fun, but it was also to see if I could get away with a cheaper rebuild and then perhaps trade / sell the rebuilt transmission for other stuff that I need...

Stretch · #77 09-08-2012, 01:01 PM

Look closely at the picture below and you'll see that not only has the friction material gone but the rotor parts of the clutch are now conical!

Nice!

The rotor parts of the K1 clutch have also embedded themselves into some of the stators

The screw driver end is pointing to a lip of about 0.25mm

To make matters worse this front part of the transmission has suffered water damage

Bubbles / pockets of water has helped to cuase pitted corrosion on these surfaces. This must have happened with the transmission being poorly stored somewhere.

Stretch · #78 09-08-2012, 01:30 PM

To get the clutch return springs and piston out you need to find a way of compressing the return springs so that the retaining housing can be moved out of the way of a retaining clip ring.

To do this I just grabbed a bit of 2" X 1" soft wood and made a little bridge structure.

As you can see it is the super duper deluxe version with two screws per foot. Hi-tec solutions rule.

Push the retaining clip up and out of the way

(You can see the clip just under the clip in the picture above)

It dings up this far!

Stretch · #79 09-08-2012, 01:34 PM

Here are the spring positions for the K1 piston

Stretch · #80 09-08-2012, 01:37 PM

Stretch · #81 09-08-2012, 01:43 PM

Well I think that that's about it for now folks.

I can't think of anything else that really needs to be shown that hasn't been shown before. Can you?

If so post up some more requests and I'll crack on with them.

At the moment there's little chance that this transmission will be put back together again as the cost of the spares are too high to make it worth my while. I'm unlikely to be able to sell it on for the money that I'll have to put in it. The stators in the K1 clutch are the final nail in the coffin for this transmission - although the biggest nail is the governor (cheapest I can find is just over 300 euros) and the next biggest nail the B1 drum which I can get for 150 euros from Germany (look on google.de if you need to find these parts using the part numbers posted in the costs so far sheet above).

I'm still on the look out for second hand spares though - and I've sent out some feelers! But I've got to be realistic about it.

That's all folks!

ckamila · #82 09-10-2012, 10:06 AM

[QUOTE=Army;3007261
...I'm not a professional company selling a transmission with a waranty you see. I can't pressure test the valve body and I don't have a dyno to check to see if works before I send it out the door...[/QUOTE]

Army - Is there any way to know if it will work without equipment stated above?

Thanks for taking the time to educate us....

chris

Stretch · #83 09-10-2012, 02:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ckamila

Army - Is there any way to know if it will work without equipment stated above?

Thanks for taking the time to educate us....

chris

Well all you can really do is not put anything back that looks like it is worn (if you are unsure measure it)... and not put anything back the wrong way round!

I mean anyone who is doing the job needs to do the physical "mechanics" of the job before the tests - you've done 95% of the work you just haven't verified it. This isn't a problem if you are about to fit the transmission back in the car you can do tests on installation to verify your work but if you are selling it on there's an element of risk.

i6h000 · #84 09-15-2012, 11:47 PM

Hey Army, to remove the shaft selector (in order to replace seal) does the valve body need to be removed to access the the bolt which holds the selector in place? And 2nd ?, when reinstalling the B2 is there any way that the pin can be misaligned and not be inserted against the brake band as intended. Thanks again for the best thread on any of the tech sites.

Stretch · #85 09-16-2012, 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by i6h000

Hey Army, to remove the shaft selector (in order to replace seal) does the valve body need to be removed to access the the bolt which holds the selector in place?...

For the selector shaft you probably don't need to remove the valve body but it might help you if you do - or if you get stuck. To loosen the shaft that you can see from the outside of the transmission you need to undo a hex head screw. Here are some pictures of the part I'm talking about.

Here's the outside of the transmission.

Here's a picture of the underside of the transmission with the valve body in place.

And here's a picture of it with the valve body removed

You should be able to reach this screw with the valve body in place but if you get stuck and need more access you'll need to remove the valve body.

Stretch · #86 09-16-2012, 02:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by i6h000

... And 2nd ?, when reinstalling the B2 is there any way that the pin can be misaligned and not be inserted against the brake band as intended...

To be honest I don't know - I guess it is possible - but I think it is unlikely.

Why do you ask?

(Is it as obvious as it seems?)

i6h000 · #87 09-16-2012, 05:22 PM

I'm the one that initially asked about the necessity of removing B1 piston to remove B1 band in order to replace B3 friction disks. I'm in the planing stage getting ready to pull trans in 2 or 3 weeks. Have access to lift and want to do a 2-3 day turnaround. Since it will be out thinking about other seals to do without getting overly involved. Also reason for asking about the B2 piston pin because I might as well replace B2 cover "O" ring while it's out.
Appreciate your help.

Stretch · #88 09-17-2012, 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by i6h000

I'm the one that initially asked about the necessity of removing B1 piston to remove B1 band in order to replace B3 friction disks. I'm in the planing stage getting ready to pull trans in 2 or 3 weeks. Have access to lift and want to do a 2-3 day turnaround. Since it will be out thinking about other seals to do without getting overly involved. Also reason for asking about the B2 piston pin because I might as well replace B2 cover "O" ring while it's out.
Appreciate your help.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Army

To be honest I don't know - I guess it is possible - but I think it is unlikely.

Why do you ask?

(Is it as obvious as it seems?)

I realised who you are - I was jumping to conclusions a bit. I thought you'd taken it to bits and then found that it wasn't working. If you are in doubt to whether a brake band piston is working or not you can test them with compressed air (but you do need to remove the valve body for that... and you can visually check for those bullet like parts that go between the brake band and the piston - removing the valve body isn't such a big deal - though you might want to consider a new gasket) =>

722.118 Automatic transmission rebuild (Monster DIY)

Different transmission of course (I still haven't gotten to that stage with this one yet) but it gove you the idea of what to do I think.

compu_85 · #89 05-12-2013, 10:21 PM

Stretch, thanks for the pictures! They were very helpful.

I can confirm you can remove the valve body with the trans in the car, in fact it is rather easy. I left the pan empty for a few days to let it catch drips, I didn't get completely filthy as I was removing the VB from the trans.

I found some interesting things. Based on this level of goop how many miles would you say are on the trans?

(yes that's a pile of goo)

And here is the "accumulator switching on piston":

Gee, I wonder if that blob of goo is causing problems (hence my weak reverse)!

I installed the superior shift kit, the instructions included are OK but could be a bit more verbose.

I'm excited to see how it runs now... hopefully I have time to put it back together next week!

-J

compu_85 · #90 05-12-2013, 10:26 PM

BTW, the G-Wagen 722.3 repair manual floating around is also a nice resource.

I may have lost my mind, but I haven't lost my balls

(There are 19 of them!)