the problem with the HF tool is the fork is too narrow. it will not fit around the kunckle.

you need to either widen it to fit, or get the set from Northern Tools... $150... it fits.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

funola,
The Energy Suspension boot was from a Mopar front-end set I had (60-70's A-body). I might have recorded the PN on my home PC.

Removing/installing the lower ball joint from the spindle is tough. I think everyone has done it w/ the spindle off the car.

A few links for others. funola started the first post.

www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/321615-red-neck-lower-ball-joint-removal.html

www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/299429-w123-ball-joint-tool.html

300D Lower Ball Joint Installation? - Mercedes-Benz Forum

Getting the ball joint out is the easy part. Most used a C-clamp press to install (Auto-zone free rental if you don't break it). Rollguy's method seems best - tighten as much as you dare, beat axially w/ hammer, repeat. Heating the spindle hole first also helps.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

I did mean OTC 8149, to remove the lower ball joint taper from the lower control arm. I have to try it out on the car, not on the spare knuckle as I said.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

I don't know if it is true but someone in the past said that the The Energy Suspension boots have no spring/clamp at the bottom to help seal and that they count on the downward pressure on the Boot when the Control Arm pushed down on it when the Nut is tightened.

And, the Grease could make it difficult t use and sort of sealant.

The above would not be much of an issue where it is dry. But, if you live someplace where your lower sttering stuff gets submerged in Water like stopped at a intersection Water might get inside.

Perhaps some sort of clamp could be used other then the stock spring clamp.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

It is true that Energy Suspension boots have no spring/clamp at the bottom. I just looked at one that is probably the wrong size for the W123 (p/n 13001) which I bought for some other application years ago.

Here is their guide in selecting which is the correct one. Energy Suspension Universal Dust Boots I will take some measurements and see which is the correct boot. The lower ball joint on my 85 300D has a torn boot but is otherwise fine with no play so a new quality boot that will last is less work than changing the ball joint with a new boot which is questionable in quality. The torn boot looks to be the same clear/ thin boot on the new Lemforder BJ that I have so maybe they are both garbage in quality.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

funola,
I did have notes at home. I used an Energy Suspension PN 13024 boot. Their PN's starting w/ "13" are for Chrysler, "9" for GM (more common). Locally, Tognotti's Performance store has many of them in bubble packs and kits. Perhaps mine wasn't the optimal PN, but I had it and fit fine. Their boots don't have a metal clip at the bottom, just the polyurethane, but it is tough and supposed to last a long time. According to my notes, on one side I replaced the ball joint and on the other just the boot. Once I had the right pickle fork and the method down, it wasn't hard to pop out the other ball joint stud. Replacing the ball joint is a much bigger task.

I agree that their catalog is very helpful. I used it to find a rear bump stop to fit my T&C minivan. It was cheaper than the "correct" rubber ones that had fallen off, and in polyurethane, plus intended for a large GM SUV, so should survive longer. I also like the purty red bling, for the tuner in all of us.

A photo from my earlier post (link to funola's "redneck removal" above), using the "funola method" to beat the ball joint out of the spindle. The longer pickle fork w/ narrower fingers is the one that worked to force the stud out of the LCA, after cutting a little of the tips off. I recall $10 at O-Reilly's.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

Thanks for the boot p/n BillGrissom.
Here are some measurements from a spare steering knuckle w BJ. Still need to crawl under the car to measure height of the boot.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

I'll get the red ones for sure. Polyurethane is really tough and flexible. I think you should be able to peel the bottom of the boot up and squirt grease in when ever it's needed.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

But I was asking about the OTC 8149

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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (116k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
2008 ML320 CDI (199k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k)

Diesel911, please explain what you have to undo first in order to get the OTC 8149 into position on the lower ball joint. I am about to try the OTC 8149 once I have the Energy Suspension dust boots. I think you have to pop the steering tie rod taper and also the upper ball joint taper first so the steering knuckle can be rotated against the lower ball joint to create enough space to get the OTC 8149 into position. Is that correct?

edit: Forgot about the brake caliper, that has to come off also.

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

deleted

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

I believe this is the correct kit that has the 2 correct dust boots for the lower ball joint.
http://m.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/ball-joint-boot/energy-suspension-ball-joint-boot/355007_911016_5933/

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

I never wrote down what I did.
But, in the pic the Caliper is removed and I remember disconnecting the upper Ball Joint.

You need to put your support under the Lower Control Arm and let the weight of the vehicle down onto the support.

I think yo are also corrrect that the Tie Rod needs also be disconnected but I don't have a specific memory on that. Or in the Service Manual it has that you can remove the Arm that the Tie Rod attaches to fromt he Steering Knuckle.

Once that is done the top of the Spindel/Steering Knuckle can be leaned outwards and rotated and the OTC Tool will have clearence to go in as in the Picture.

I am looking at the Mercedes Service Manual and it shows the same procedure in order to use the real Mercedes Tool.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I just replaced the lower BJ boot. The outer tie rod must come off as well as the upper ball joint to get the knuckle into this position to get the tool on.

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Someone just pm'ed me asking how the Energy Suspension boot is doing. Just snapped this pic and it appears it's doing fine. A bit dirtier but I do not see any squeezed out grease so it is sealing well.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked