without disputing many of your points I want to just say that gasoline is not abrasive, rather it just has little to no lubricating properties as diesel has.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

I still suggest a compression test.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

When you have an obvious symptom like you have here. Get to the bottom of it before procceeding. The gas in the tank may have loosened up a lot of junk that may be covering the tank filter for example. Or so much resultant junk may be in the lift pump valves it will not pump.

Disconnect the fuel line before the lift pump and see if any fuel is gravity flowing through. Thats if the tank level is higher then the end of the hose. If no fuel try blowing back through the line to temporarily clear it.

If fuel is coming out of the hose obviously the lift pump is not functioning. Keep it as simple as you can and always pay attention to obvious symtoms.

Keep an open mind as well. If the tank is under half perhaps a previous owner reversed the fuel lines up front. The return line is higher in the tank. One never really knows what a previous owner may have done.

Once again. If there is no fuel coming out of the system after the lift pump the car is certainly not going to run. The possible reasons for this are few. Keep it as simple as is possible. It is also a strong possible symptom that the engine was not damaged. Something to do with the fuel supply seems to have been impacted by the gas use or coincidence occured. So the engine is probably just as fine as if it was before the fuel supply stopped.

Alright guys, finally got another lift pump today. Took forever to get it.

The old one was definitely not doing anything. Just sitting.

Compression test is in the plans, just don't have the tool for it right now.

I couldn't get the gasket from the new to me LP and the old paper like one tore when being taken off. Is there anything special about it? I'm going to call around to see if I can find one, but if not, is there any reason why I can't make my own?

Glad to hear you are still making progress. When I pulled my LP (my problem was the old primer pump) I tore the gasket and just made a new one myself and I've had no problems. Just make sure you use material that is impervious to engine oil.

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Mike Frederick
1986 300SDL, 240K+ miles
1985 300D KaliKar, 270K+ miles

I remember seeing that car on CL not too long ago. I never called or anything. I;m skeptical on the gas thing. My fear is that it blew the head gasket or worse with all that gasoline in. But as I recall the price was rock bottom so...

You can get a compression tester from Harbor Freight for not too much $. It has the right adapter for the benz too.

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1987 300TDT
1981 VW MKI Caddy 1.6 diesel, waiting on engine swap
1983 D-50 Power Ram 4x4 "Mitsubishi" 2.3 turbo diesel
assorted gas powered crap and motorcycles

RIP: 1984 300TDT, 1982 300TDT, 1984 190D 2.2, 1992 300D 2.5, 1987 300TDT, 1982 Maxima LD28, 1983 Maxima LD28, Isuzu C223 P'ups X3, 1983 Holiday Rambler 6.2 Banks turbo diesel, 1984 Winnebago LeSharo 2.1 TD, 1985 Allegro 6.5

The $30 HF compression tester kit has the right adapter if you haven't upgraded to a later casting head and inclined prechambers. At least that's how it was with the last HF kit I saw. I don't know if the $180 kit has the right adapter for inclined injectors. I don't think I'd ever spend $180 at HF

Sixto
87 300D

Ended up making a gasket and got the LP installed Sunday afternoon. Thought we were having issues with this one too not moving any diesel, but after filling the line, as opposed to having it pull it on its own, things have been going good with it.

Now that the pump is working, we are getting old fuel out of the return line for the first time! The feeling of it actually doing something felt like huge progress.

Now it's gotten to the point of bleeding the injectors. What is the order? I started with the one closest to the hear of the engine bay (#1?) and worked my way forward.

As far as the return fuel, how much old fuel is there approx? So far I've filled 2 kid TGIF cups, smells like mixed gas/diesel.

Picked up a compression tester from Harbor, still haven't check it yet though.

#1 - New pump installed
#2 - Bleeding injectors, any special way to get air out from these lines? Or is it not something to worry about?
#3 - Return fuel gotten 2 of these cups full to date.

I'm just glad to see some visible progress!

For what it's worth I bought an 83 300SD and my wife filled it up with gas about a month later. She drove it out of the gas station and it died. We took it to our mechanic and he said we had two options: tear down the engine and see what needed to be replaced or drain/flush/refill everything and see what happens. We chose option number two and never had a problem. Granted it did not run long before it died but it did run on some gas.

It could be that your engine is just fine and once you get good fuel to it, it will work great. At least I hope that's the case.

That is what I am hoping will happen too, otherwise things are going to add up more than I will be able to afford. I bought this car on a gamble, still waiting to see how I did. No progress to speak of, haven't had the time to get out to mess with it.

Also, should I be able to see my own pictures that I post? I think I'm posting them right with Flickr, but I don't ever see any of them on my end....

I don't see any of your photos either. You might need to use a different service, or upload them to the forum.

Packman

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83 240D - 4 speed manual - Manilla Beige
189K miles, Tachometer mod, cool wooden shift knob from PeachParts, CocoMats, Original factory paint, manual windows, manual sunroof. Starting to add AudioWrap to this car too!

Yep, something wonky with Flicker. I changed them to a URL and by clicking you can now see them.


IMAG0325 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

You can just scroll through the pictures on this one.

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raMBow

1999 E300DT Obsydian Black Metallic, Heated Full Leather Parchment options, E2, K2, 136,000+, best 36.5 mpg - GP's 12-04 & 11-12 Zero Stuck
2010 Honda Odyssey - The BrideMobile - best 26.5
(2) 2005 Honday Accord- (1 -Corporate 1 - Personal) - 110,000 4-cyl 30mpg
2000 VW Golf GLS TDI, Upsolute Chip (sold to Brother, now 300+k on it) 48.5 mpg like clock work
1987 Honda CRX HF - Sold 87,000 always over 50 mpg Max 67 mpg

Thanks for posting the link so that people could look at it.

I can get good flow out of the #1 and #2 IP and a little of out #3 but the rest of them don't seem to be doing a whole lot. Not like the first two for sure.

I'm not really keen on using the WD40 method of starting it if I don't have to. Is there any other tricks that I could use to get it starting? Additive or....? I know that Diesel is based off compression so it doesn't so much a octane thing like gas is. Everything that I've searched for is about cold weather starts. Down here in south Texas it's been steady low 90s still.

Shut the return line off. Then see if fuel is coming out the other injector lines. Or just start up on wd40 with a helper. The wd40 start up will not hurt anything. Wd 40 is not like starting on quick start type fuel.

I would second the WD-40.

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1978 Mercedes 240D
1981 Mercedes 240D
1982 Mercedes 240D