One is in the cam bearing tower.

I just bought the long torks bit off my snap-on guy today. LOL..... My short ones wouldn't work.

Bad news the head is a mess. I can't not reuse it without machine work and 2 new valves. So I will be going with a twin power steering/SLS pump off an 87.

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ouch!

I would not want to use that piston either. The top is fairly thin as it is hollow so oil can spray up there and cool it.

I am not convinced the economics of adapting a later power steering pump will be more favorable than fixing the wagon head.

Has anybody here done that before?

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

$200 for a used steering/sls pump. I have heard they will mount right on the 617 engine and I need one pressure line made to fit and a longer return line.

Head work and vavles will cost more than that I would think.

Get rid of that wedding band when working on cars. Accidentally complete the circuit between 12V and ground and it won't be pretty. I know two people who have done it, one almost lost the finger.

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'83 300D, 126K miles.

So what are the chances that the head is not cracked and the valves seat is ok?

So "theoretically" I could pull 2 valves out of the other head, put them in this head and lap them, and replace the injector pre-chamber with one out of the other head.

I was planning on swapping out the injectors and glow-plugs anyway.

Your #3 piston looks almost like my #1 did on my 85 300D at 330k miles. Something was bouncing around in mine too, but not spherical like your marks. I am guessing the ball you are holding is the infamous "ball on a stick" that sits inside the pre-chamber. Mine couldn't have come out since my pre-chamber was intact, with just strike marks on the outside. I think my object was a chunk of piston, since the piston was missing a bit. However, I have also heard that my unique CA model with trap oxidizer can get pieces of ceramic back inside the engine, though the catalyst looks whole and secure. I heard a loud ball bearing rattle once that went away, drove the car another 5K miles, got another rattling and the engine soon siezed. Now have a 1983 engine in that has no blowby at all.

Between none and ZERO.

I suspect cylinder wall damage on that piston.

IMO the logical choice is to replace the whole engine.

.

__________________
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1985 300SD
1983 300D
2003 Volvo V70

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I have a whole running engine I bought out of a sedan.

I need the SLS pump/head from the wagon motor to put on the sedan motor so I can get my wagon on the road.

Only a machine shop could really determine the full extent of damage to that head, but from what you posted I wouldn't even bother. It needs to be pressure tested, but more than that is the extensive damage. It cant really be welded, and you cant likely machine it enough to clean it up. Even pressure tested, after that kind of damage it should be fully x-rayed. And you cant pressure test it until the prechambers are out and the valves are pulled. I estimate at least $200 or more in labor just to determine if its leaking or has cracks.

Considering the damage shown it is most likely cracked, and even if its not it will require extensive labor to try and repair it and youll still have a very questionable head.

I would seriously cut my losses and find a good used one. I see over half a dozen on car-part listed under 300TD for $300-400. Thats the direction I would gravitate.

I wouldnt even bother with that block. Back on car-part, they have a whole page of 300TD engines for $500 to $1000. If you can find a decent used motor locally or within reasonable distance you could save a ton of labor and parts and machine shop work.

That's what I was thinking too. I guess I'll do a search for a head.

The twin, power steering/SLS pump is still an option though. Then I wouldn't have to take the good running engine apart.

Got the head stripped down. the seats don't look too bad. I think a seat cutter and two valves and I can use it.

I'm gonna call the machine shop Mon and find out how much.

Or I have a guy that has a seat cutter I can borrow.

I haven't looked for a head as of yet but I'm about to tonight yet.

Take along a print out of the specifications of allowable seat depth from the FSM when you go to see the machine shop.

If they get all upset about you showing them the data walk away. In my experience you'll get along better with a machine shop if you politely present them with clear and detailed instructions. Give them the impression that you will be checking their work - but don't tell them how to do their job though!

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Good point.

The intake seat looks really good. The exhaust seat will need a little work. The valves took most of the abuse not the seats.

pic of the head

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