Ok so I have an 82 300td with a bad engine, and I bought a sedan motor that I need to put the wagon head on for the SLS pump.

I would like to know if I can get the cam gear through the timing chain hole in the head so I don't have to mess with taking the chain loose.

Or how I can do this "fairly" easily.

I'm new to these motors so any help would be appreciated. thanks

when the cam nut is off, just push the cam back. the gear AND THE WASHER will drop into the head. be sure to wire tie the chain to the gear in several places. BUT PAY ATTENTION TO THE WASHER! DO NOT DROP IT INTO THE HEAD!!!

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Awesome. So I don't have to mess with the chain I can do this and pull the head. Then drop this head on the sedan motor?

From the pic I've seen the cam gear will not fit through the head.

So I guess I have to mark the chain on the cam gear and take the gear off and drop the chain through the head.

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Just mark the chain and cam sprocket with some paint for a getting back together party. Make sure the cam position on the replacement head is at the same place as the old one on the engine before putting the replacement head back on is more important. Cam marks line up on the original head before pulling it and simular position on the complete original head before it is installed.

You cannot rotate the cam into position on a fully loaded installed head after it is bolted down without disabiling the valve train first. The chain will remain timed on the crank sprocket that has a tang underneath it so the chain cannot drop off and the injection pump sprocket timing tends to not be effected either.

Getting it all clear in your head before doing it is the best.That way it is not hard and you get no suprises. You may already be well aware of this but just in case. It is not hard at all if you think it through.

Yeah I know it's not that hard, but I'm doing this blind. I don't have a FSM as of right now and finding info on the net is proving to be very trying and time consuming.

I just want to make sure I have my ducks in line before I take the head off and screw things up.

I have everything ready now. I just need to take the head bolts our of the donor head. Then on to taking the head off the good motor.

Thanks for the help guys.

need to blow out the head bolt holes and tap the driver in fully to prevent stripping. You could cut/grind the heads off to pull the head.

I did that to all of them before I tried to take them out. It didn't work. 360+K miles on the old engine.

I don't want the same problems with the good motor so I'm going with one of these.

Mercedes 300TE 300TD Wagon SLS Suspension Steering Pump 1987 1993 M103 OM603 | eBay

I'm still going to cut the heads off the bolts and check out why cyl#3 only had 90psi of compression.

Bad news the head is a mess. I can't not reuse it without machine work and 2 new valves. So I will be going with a twin power steering/SLS pump off an 87.

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ouch!

I would not want to use that piston either. The top is fairly thin as it is hollow so oil can spray up there and cool it.

I am not convinced the economics of adapting a later power steering pump will be more favorable than fixing the wagon head.

Has anybody here done that before?

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

$200 for a used steering/sls pump. I have heard they will mount right on the 617 engine and I need one pressure line made to fit and a longer return line.

Head work and vavles will cost more than that I would think.

Your #3 piston looks almost like my #1 did on my 85 300D at 330k miles. Something was bouncing around in mine too, but not spherical like your marks. I am guessing the ball you are holding is the infamous "ball on a stick" that sits inside the pre-chamber. Mine couldn't have come out since my pre-chamber was intact, with just strike marks on the outside. I think my object was a chunk of piston, since the piston was missing a bit. However, I have also heard that my unique CA model with trap oxidizer can get pieces of ceramic back inside the engine, though the catalyst looks whole and secure. I heard a loud ball bearing rattle once that went away, drove the car another 5K miles, got another rattling and the engine soon siezed. Now have a 1983 engine in that has no blowby at all.

Only a machine shop could really determine the full extent of damage to that head, but from what you posted I wouldn't even bother. It needs to be pressure tested, but more than that is the extensive damage. It cant really be welded, and you cant likely machine it enough to clean it up. Even pressure tested, after that kind of damage it should be fully x-rayed. And you cant pressure test it until the prechambers are out and the valves are pulled. I estimate at least $200 or more in labor just to determine if its leaking or has cracks.

Considering the damage shown it is most likely cracked, and even if its not it will require extensive labor to try and repair it and youll still have a very questionable head.

I would seriously cut my losses and find a good used one. I see over half a dozen on car-part listed under 300TD for $300-400. Thats the direction I would gravitate.

I wouldnt even bother with that block. Back on car-part, they have a whole page of 300TD engines for $500 to $1000. If you can find a decent used motor locally or within reasonable distance you could save a ton of labor and parts and machine shop work.

That's what I was thinking too. I guess I'll do a search for a head.

The twin, power steering/SLS pump is still an option though. Then I wouldn't have to take the good running engine apart.

Got the head stripped down. the seats don't look too bad. I think a seat cutter and two valves and I can use it.

I'm gonna call the machine shop Mon and find out how much.

Or I have a guy that has a seat cutter I can borrow.

I haven't looked for a head as of yet but I'm about to tonight yet.