A complete toolbox for 300D maintenance, what do you suggest?

I plan to start with 12 point sockets, shallow and deep set. Am I better served with 3/8" or 1/2" drive? Will get some ratcheting box end metric wrenches, a torque wrench, feeler gauges. Jack, axle stands, and I already have an ammeter/multitester.

Many thanks.

Here are some places to start

What must have tools and/or MB special do you own or need?

The REAL w123 roadside tool kit

Recommended 300d Tool Kit

Anybody have a tool bag inventory for an '82 300D ?

Okay just what tools do you have?--time for tools One-Up-Man ship..

That should be a good start...

Or you could just go to Harbor Freight and get "one of each" and be done with it

Actually, I think the best bet is to get a bunch of wrenches, screw drivers, pliers, hammers, a couple of jacks, jack stands, cribs, and just start wrenching. Get what you need for each job as it comes up. Over time, you'll start to have a collection that is suited to your car, skills and jobs. No need to get stuff you don't need until you need it.

Eventually you'll get to the MB equivalent of - tubalcain's FAVORITE MACHINE SHOP TOOLS tubalcain - YouTube

__________________
Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

Couple sticks of dynamite, a sludge harm, spare engine and a good bottle of whiskey.....a screw driver for good measure....oh and don't forget a roll of duck tape....

__________________

Hell yeah!

Depending where geographically the car spent it's life. Six point sockets are prefferable in areas with major rusting. Twelve point sockets tend to see little use where I am.

I tend to use a lot of relatively inexpensive impact sockets. The walls are thicker so not good for tight locations.I also have found over time that for hand use with no power tool like impact guns they are both tough and last well.

Cheap, tough and give more grip on a bolt or nut than a twelve point. Just my opinion though. You have to spent a lot of money in comparison to get fairly tough twelve point sockets. Cheap and chrome plated with sockets may have improved but to me they never were very good. Even cheap taiawnese black impact sockets where multipal times stronger.

Definitely get 6pt sockets, then buy individual 12pt socks if you really really need them.

3/8" should be fine, and is easier to work with. 1/2 is for cranking really hard.

__________________
$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

Consider a 17mm crows foot for the fuel lines, a set of nice stubby open end wrenches (craftsman professional has a NICE set of 8mm through 22mm for 60 bucks), a ball joint separator press for tie rod end ect, a 9-11mm line wrench for the brake system, a few good sets of vice grips, a half inch drive cheater handle and a bunch of good pry bars with striking ends.

__________________
1981 300SD 512k OM603

Normally I do not buy specialised tools until the need is present. A set of valve adjusting wrenches may be the exception. You can always sell them later if done with them yourself usually.

The mechanical valves need checked every fifteen thousand miles. Chances are most car purchased by members cannot remember the last time their valves where checked.