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  #1  
Old 07-27-2013, 10:52 AM
Jeremy5848's Avatar
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sonoma Wine Country
Posts: 7,844
W124 Door Reassembly Problem

I took the driver's (LF) door of my '95 E300 (W124, OM606NA) apart to search for a rattle (so far not found). In these later models (after 1992) is a white plastic cover (for water protection) that slips over the pneumatic lock actuator and is attached by one screw at the bottom.

I was able to get the cover out but now can't get it back into the correct spot. No matter how I try to slide the cover up into place (working mostly blind, of course) the cover interferes with the later installation of the outside door handle.

FSM isn't much help -- it says only "remove" and "replace." Since the plastic cover is limited to later (possibly facelift, definitely post-1992) models, some of you may not have experience -- early models lack this cover. For those of you who do, what's the secret? I'd really like to get the door back together!

Jeremy

Edit: The cover is noted in FSM section 80-215 (Central Locking System) and covers "sedan and station wagon from ident End No. A 391256 / F 025886."
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W124 Door Reassembly Problem-cover.jpg  
__________________

"Buster" in the '95

Our all-biodiesel family
1995 E300D (W124) . 217,000 miles My car
1996 E300D (W210) . 296,000 miles Wife's car
Santa Rosa population 170,685 (2012)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 678,685

"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970

Last edited by Jeremy5848; 07-27-2013 at 11:10 AM. Reason: Add detailed FSM information
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  #2  
Old 07-29-2013, 09:31 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: east coast Canada
Posts: 118
I had the same problem over the weekend with the exact same car , i had to remove the passengers panel and see where exactly it goes up inside then I was able to install it where it belongs.
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  #3  
Old 07-30-2013, 12:17 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Southeast
Posts: 1,219
As to the rattle

I ...hate.... rattles.

If you didn't find the rattle, and you went this far, I wouldn't stop until I found it.

Plus while you have all that stuff off, did you take off the old grease and re- lube your window regulator and plastic pieces that slide on the rails? If not, you are asking for big problems. This simple preventive maintenance will save you from a big, messy repair later. As it stands now, you can leave the regulator in. I recently wrote a how-to, check my posts to find it.

The rattle might come from a failing plastic part on the regulator; they fail because the grease wears off and it ruins them. Also tighten up all your bolts on the regulator.

Drive the car with all that stuff off, see if you can't pinpoint the sound by using your finger as you drive, to feel the vibration of the source.

Good luck.
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  #4  
Old 07-30-2013, 01:34 AM
Jeremy5848's Avatar
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sonoma Wine Country
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I saw your post and will check and lube the regulator before putting the door skin back on -- thanks for the tip. I finally got the white plastic cover back in place but I had to trim it where it goes up into the rear guide for the window. I didn't want to pull the passenger door skin so I popped the alarm switch out of the door end and looked in the hole. Everything afterwards went back together smoothly.

I can't tell whether the rattle is gone or just different. Since taking the door skin off isn't difficult, I may just put it back on and see if the noise is still there. Nothing seems loose but I haven't checked the window regulator yet. Since the driver's side gets the most use it's certainly worth checking.

The pneumatic switch/actuator for central locking still isn't working correctly (I thought the rattle was from it -- that was the start of this whole problem). When I pull the inside lever to open the driver's door, the door unlatches and opens correctly but the switch doesn't activate the central locking system unless I pull the lever as far as it will go and even then it's unreliable. Pulling up on the button or unlocking the passenger door or using the key from outside or using the keyless remote that I added last year works correctly to lock and unlock all the doors. I can't see anything wrong with the pneumatic actuator but maybe it's hanging up and gradually failing -- certainly the problem is getting worse.

It's to where I can now open the driver's door and get out without unlocking any of the doors and even with the key in the ignition. Shutting the driver's door then leaves me locked out of the car (fortunately I always carry a spare key). I have to watch carefully, making sure to pull the door lever all the way and wait for central locking to do its thing, or unlock the doors manually before trying to open the driver's door.

I suppose the actuator is an arm and a leg from Mercedes. Maybe I can get one from Pick-n-Pull. The only other possible cause is something in the mechanical link between the door latch and the pneumatic actuator. I can see how the link is supposed to allow the actuator to pop up and trip the switch, thus telling central locking to unlock all the other doors. The locking function works, it's only unlock that is flaky and only the driver's side.

Jeremy
__________________

"Buster" in the '95

Our all-biodiesel family
1995 E300D (W124) . 217,000 miles My car
1996 E300D (W210) . 296,000 miles Wife's car
Santa Rosa population 170,685 (2012)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 678,685

"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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  #5  
Old 07-30-2013, 10:54 PM
Jeremy5848's Avatar
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sonoma Wine Country
Posts: 7,844
Check the door check, too!

I checked and lubed the window regulator. Didn't see any problems but thanks for the suggestion anyway. The 5 bolts holding the regulator were tight but I tightened them a bit anyway. The surprising thing was that the inside bolt of the 3 holding the door check was actually loose. I removed it and lubed it too, another good thing to check any time the door skin is off.

Jeremy
__________________

"Buster" in the '95

Our all-biodiesel family
1995 E300D (W124) . 217,000 miles My car
1996 E300D (W210) . 296,000 miles Wife's car
Santa Rosa population 170,685 (2012)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 678,685

"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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  #6  
Old 07-31-2013, 09:05 AM
scottmcphee's Avatar
1987 w124 300D
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Edmonton, Canada
Posts: 1,470
When I get a rattle in the door, I replace the flattened motor mount that is causing it ;-)
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Cheers!
Scott McPhee

Cars:
1987 300D was my daily driver, now parked and for sale! Got my new car.
1987 300D GONE! I saved a few choice parts on a shelf. I will list these in a post.
1987 300D GONE!
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  #7  
Old 07-31-2013, 05:23 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Southeast
Posts: 1,219
Could also be in your cables/hose

There are electrical wires that are harnessed together with simple plastic locking pull ties. It's possible one of those got loose or broke. Check to make sure those aren't rattling.

As to the "the driver's door gets used the most so you'll lube that window regulator", N E G A T O R Y!!!! I know it's a pain, but while you're at it, do 'em all. Later, you'll forget how to take the door panels off. I'm glad I hit mine all at the same time. And with the passenger side door panel off, you can see how it goes up/down compared to the other. If you fail to lube them properly, you could be looking at a very big problem, and at a very bad time. I was lucky that mine had the problem just AFTER a HUGE downpour of a storm we had here. Tighten up all the bolts, you said 5, that might be for the regulator itself. You also want to tighten up the bolts/screws holding the tracks in place. Especially note the short one that runs at an angle, it's about 6 inches long. The window doesn't run on it, but the stabilizer does.

Tighten them if loose.
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Old 07-31-2013, 05:23 PM
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