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#1
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Engine mount bolts, what size are they?
Hey guys,
Im pulling the 617 from my '84 300TD tonight after work and I have limited time to do it. I have everything broken loose and ready to pull except the engine mount bolts under the frame. Mine where so coated in road sludge and oil that I could not tell what type or size of bolt they are. Hex? Allen? 12 point? What size? |
#2
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Well you better get them cleaned out real well, they are an 8mm Hex Bit, (Allen) if they strip out, don`t stress, the two little one`s on either side of the rubber engine mount are what actually holds the engine to the body. those are a 6mm Hex Bit, and clean them out really well too to seat the Bit.
Use a 6mm Allen wrench the you cut off the "L" part short to fit in the hole. a paint t remove but will work. If the 8mm strip, after the engine is removed, remove the Aluminum arms and put in a Vice and drill out the head. Or maybe a Socket of the right size may be able to be pounded on to the head. Have fun, just went through this R&R Eng/Trans and later R&R a Transmission. Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#3
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Thank you!
So the little allen bolts on the top side of the frame actually hold the engine to the frame? |
#4
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They do, and there are also 2 engine shocks that help hold it to the frame....plus there is a transmission mount too..
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#5
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Fortunately, I got the trans mount and driveshaft disconnected earlier in the week. Just the motor mounts left and it should be free.
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#6
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Hold the phone... I just pulled the engine from 1984 300D Turbo yesterday and I'm a bit confused here.
1) I never undid any 6 MM bolts anywhere. My sockets only go down to 7 mm because I've lost the rest, and I never felt that loss. As far as I could tell, those Allens were the things holding the engine in, and nothing else (with the exception of the engine shocks, and those nuts are 10 mm with the holding point at the bottom of the shock being 7 mm). 2) That transmission (or rear engine) mount does not have any holding nut in the turbo versions -- that was just resolved here.
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"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes 1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod 2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die." |
#7
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The motor mounts have three bolts....the 8mm in the center and the two 6mm on the outside of the mount....the 8mm holds the mount to the engine....the two 6mm hold the mount and engine to the body/frame..
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#8
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Quote:
Anyway, I'll get an OM61X starter that I'm right .
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"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes 1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod 2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die." |
#9
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Quote:
A 300D and a 300SD have the same set up, why is yours different? The big 8mm bolt that comes up from under the car, through the rubber mount, bolts it to the aluminum arm that is bolted to the engine. What holds the engine to the body, is the 2 6mm small bolts on either side of the rubber mount. there are 4 of them, two on each side. The engine shocks have one 10mm nut on the top, and one 10mm nut on the bottom for the shock. Use a 7mm open end to hold the flats of the shaft from turning when removing the lower 10mm nut. There is also the 2 10mm bolts that hold the shock upper mount to the aluminum arm. Yeah there is the Transmission Mount. one 19mm nut holds it to the Transmission. two 13mm bolts hold the mount to the metal cross mount/bracket. The cross mount uses 4 17mm bolts that holds it to the body. Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#10
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I have found that using a 6mm bit and a closed end ratcheting wrench works extremely well.
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#11
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Ok. Just an update. I didn't manage to pull the engine tonight because on the passenger side the 8mm and one of the 6mm Allen bolts stripped out. (I got lazy and was using my dewalt cordless impact driver on everything)
The driver side 8mm pulled out just fine. So my next step is to drill out the 8mm. Good thing there is a three day weekend coming up. : ) |
#12
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From what Ive seen, yes, the two 6mm hold the mount to the frame. My car is a wrecked parts car too. I am only removing one mount because the head on the 8mm rounded out. It should be cake to remove once the engine is out of the car.
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#13
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It helps to clean the Allen heads with a pick or small screw driver and spray solvent. It also helps to tap the wrench into the bolt head. Allen head socket on an extension worked.
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do. |
#14
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Having pulled 2 engines (300SD and 240D) with this mount system tells me that Junkman is right on target. (Of course, the 240D lacks the shocks). But yeah, clean the hex and tap in the socket before applying torque.
Not that you've rounded off the head (no, it's NOT stripped - that refers to a failure of the thread) the easiest thing is to buy yourself a 3/8" (say, 10ish mm) LEFT HAND drill bit. Chuck it in a reversible drill and, with the bit spinning what would normally be backwards, drill out the bolt. Sometimes you have to drill off the head but often the bit will catch and yank the bolt out. Left hand drill bits are the cat's - um - meow. On the two I did you could get in there pretty well though you may need to pull the turbo on the passenger's (right) side. It isn't hard to do. Dan |
#15
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I finally pulled the engine. After Drilling the head off of the 8mm allen it was freed up. Although I used a little less finesse than I had planned (cut out the front clip). The only hang up I had was the ground wire from the base of the engine to the body. It wasn't visible from under the hood so I kept lifting and lifting on the engine and couldn't find what it was stuck on. Anyway, 1hr later, I had it out and ready to pressure wash.
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