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  #16  
Old 11-15-2013, 11:11 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: South Central Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by masc243 View Post
3/4" Drive 2.75" Socket.
That would be a 70mm right? If I'm converting right? I gotta look in the box, I'm pretty sure I have a 3/4 drive 70mm from some odd car front axle nut.

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  #17  
Old 11-15-2013, 02:27 PM
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Location: Ontario, Canada
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Originally Posted by masc243 View Post
I think the hole saw would work fine. The overall depth and diameter of the hole saw has to large enough to encase the bushing and the diameter has to be of a size that it is going to seat on the metal flat surface of the new bushing. Will also need at least a 1/2 hole for the all thread. And don't forget the syl-glide
OK thanks. I may even have some other stuff in junk pile that would work too. If I do this, it will be next Spring in conjunction with trailing arm replacement, which I haven't got my head around yet
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  #18  
Old 06-20-2015, 01:12 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Worcester, MA
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Bumping an old post. I've read quite a bit about people having trouble with the Meyle subframe mounts. I came up with a tool of my own and was able to fully press one into a W123 subframe earlier this afternon.

I'll post photos and video of the tool here sometime probably later this weekend. No can do today - leaving for a wedding soon.

I have all the Home Depot part #s handy for those who want to duplicate the tool.
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  #19  
Old 06-22-2015, 02:34 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Worcester, MA
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I'm back with info. I'm happy to report that with my tool, I was able to press in Meyle subframe mounts fully without much fuss.

Here's a picture of the tool:


I used pipe fittings from Home Depot. The real key piece is the two inch floor flange, which sits PERFECTLY over the subframe mount, allowing you to press it into the subframe via the metal lip, as opposed to pressing on the center rubber portion of the subframe mount. Here's a list of the parts I used:
  • 5/8" diameter threaded rod, 12" length (cut down to a total of ten inches)
  • Two nuts to fit threaded rod
  • 5 LARGE washers (the ones I used were almost too small - go big on these)
  • one coupling nut to fit threaded rod

The following part numbers are plumbing fittings from Home Depot made by LDR:
  • 311F-2 - 2 floor flange
  • 310 B-2112 2 x 1 black bushing
  • 310 B-11234 1 x black bushing
  • 310 B-3412 3/4 x black bushing

Arrange the parts on the threaded rod in the following order, according to the picture:

  • coupling nut
  • washer
  • 310 B-3412 3/4 x black bushing
  • 310 B-11234 1 x black bushing
  • 310 B-2112 2 x 1 black bushing
  • 311F-2 - 2 floor flange
  • four washers
  • two nuts

The pipe fittings just screw together. I assembled them hand-tight only.

Here's s picture of the tool in place on the subframe:


And here's a picture of a Meyle mount fully pressed into place:


I was able to seat one of these by hand with a ratchet. The other one required the use of my electric impact wrench. Neither one took my more than ten minutes to change.

I can post a link to a video of this later.
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  #20  
Old 06-22-2015, 09:21 PM
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Location: Sacramento, CA
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Thanks again!
I am following in the wake of your rebuild. Got all the parts for the
trailing arm bushing and will do that this week.
Have the entire rear end out and just finished Por-15 the subframe.
Got the SF bushings out after making a makeshift tool patterned
after the MB tool. It broke after the second bushing came out
but got me through the job.
I have a w126 and the bushings are different than you show.
I will press in the bushings this week after building my version of your tool.

Thanks for sharing.

Jeff
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Last edited by Rooster300SD; 06-22-2015 at 09:32 PM.
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  #21  
Old 06-22-2015, 10:02 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Worcester, MA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rooster300SD View Post
Thanks again!
I am following in the wake of your rebuild. Got all the parts for the
trailing arm bushing and will do that this week.
Have the entire rear end out and just finished Por-15 the subframe.
Got the SF bushings out after making a makeshift tool patterned
after the MB tool. It broke after the second bushing came out
but got me through the job.
I have a w126 and the bushings are different than you show.
I will press in the bushings this week after building my version of your tool.

Thanks for sharing.

Jeff
No problem, Jeff. I didn't need any special tools to remove the old ones. The driver side mount was in such bad shape that it crumbled in my hand. I was able to pull the remnants of it out of the pocket in the subframe in a minute by hand.

The passenger side mount was in better shape, but pretty worn. I got it started with a hammer and chisel and then pried it out with a small pry bar. Probably took me five minutes. Not counting unbolting the subframe from the body and remounting it, it took me maybe ten minutes to change the passenger side subframe mount.

I'm not sure how the W126 differs, but I hope this info helps.

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