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  #16  
Old 01-30-2014, 07:14 AM
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I am always amazed at what a simple trans fluid change will cure. I had a similar issue to yours with my 240D trans slipping and not staying in gear and I changed the fluid and filter and it seems to be operating better now. Still not right but better anyway. My transmission is one of the old non vacuum units so there are many more variables involved with yours.

Stretch is correct about the transmission needing to be at operating temperature to get the correct readings with the gauges. Hopefully it will be warmer this weekend so it should be easier to get the car warmed up.

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  #17  
Old 01-30-2014, 08:27 AM
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Thanks Stretch. The above pics where taken with the car in park. I will get some long hose and route the line pressure gauge thougth the firewall and in to the car as the other two gauges are. I'll also pic up a device to measure temps.
The forecast for the weekend calls for much more tolerable temps.
Stretch, documentation which the modulating pressure was set to was at 2.8 bar with the modulator disconnected from the vacuum line. What's shown in the pic is with the Vacuum modulator connected to the VCV.
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  #18  
Old 01-30-2014, 11:14 AM
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FYI

Quote:
Originally Posted by steeleygreg View Post
Thanks Stretch. The above pics where taken with the car in park. I will get some long hose and route the line pressure gauge thougth the firewall and in to the car as the other two gauges are. I'll also pic up a device to measure temps.
The forecast for the weekend calls for much more tolerable temps.
Stretch, documentation which the modulating pressure was set to was at 2.8 bar with the modulator disconnected from the vacuum line. What's shown in the pic is with the Vacuum modulator connected to the VCV.
Ambient temperature has little impact once the engine is at operating temperature, unless it is seriously sub zero.
In the OE climate chambers, it is called a slush box, where they test transmissions to -80° F..

If the engine is at 80° C, the transmission should be at operating temperature.

They share the radiator.

On a cold start, Running for 5 minutes will not reach anything near transmission operating temperature.

.
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  #19  
Old 01-30-2014, 02:02 PM
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Some data...

...I've suffered...

...I had to boot up Windows to find this data - dreadful experience!

Looking through the German FSM the data for USA models is given in a separate section.

Use the headings from this table =>



But the data from here =>



As Roy mentioned above the transmission operating temperature is 80 degrees C - this is in the owners handbook. I reckon the best way is to use a IR thermometer reading off of the transmission oil pan. (Or thermocouple and multimeter)
Attached Thumbnails
240D potential transmission failure-722.1-hydraulic-pressure-information-usa.jpg  
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  #20  
Old 01-31-2014, 12:47 AM
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Stretch, a thought accord to me. When I set the modulating pressure, the document stated to disconnect the modulator valve from the VCV. 2.8 bar was the obtained setting.
For these modulating and working pressure settings documented above, do I also disconnect the modulator valve ? Currently the VCV is connected to the modulator.
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  #21  
Old 01-31-2014, 03:24 AM
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First things first - the transmission needs to be at the right temperature and you need to have it at stand still in drive - then the measurements will start to have some meaning. (The test for in reverse at stand still is also there)

Ignore the vacuum measurements at the moment; concentrate on the hydraulic pressures in the table posted above.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #22  
Old 01-31-2014, 07:57 AM
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Greg

Be sure to convert the pressure between BAR and PSI.
Here is a great utility for doing conversions.
Convert.exe


.
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  #23  
Old 01-31-2014, 10:15 AM
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^^^

Hee hee

"old money" : "new money" = "aaaaarrrrrggggggggg"!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #24  
Old 02-01-2014, 01:54 PM
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Getting ready to change trans fluid and filter, but just for giggles I wanted to see what pressure readings I'd get before and after fluid and filter are changed.

Reason for this test was because the modulating press would go to 0 within a minute of running the car.
When I jacked the car up to connect a gauge to read working pressure, I couldn't get the modulating press to drop even after 5 minutes.

After warming the car to operating temps, that's 80C I still couldn't get it to fail, so I took it for a road test in my community.
If the car broke down, I wouldn't have far to walk.
The attached file has the finding.
Currently the car is cooling and I'll drop the pan shortly.

.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Road test Transmission readings.pdf (127.9 KB, 118 views)

Last edited by whunter; 02-01-2014 at 01:57 PM. Reason: readability
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  #25  
Old 02-01-2014, 04:04 PM
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Screen shot!

If you do a screen shot of your spreadsheet it might help with the more lazy of us about here who don't want to upload PDFs!



I assume the values are bar

Your working pressure is way too low - 3.2 bar is way down on the 7.2 bar it should be - the reverse should be more than 16 bar and you only have 6.6

This looks like a weak front pump problem - but - we should see how a new filter and oil behaves before we read it the last rites
Attached Thumbnails
240D potential transmission failure-gregs-first-test-results.jpg  
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #26  
Old 02-02-2014, 05:55 AM
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I agree

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
If you do a screen shot of your spreadsheet it might help with the more lazy of us about here who don't want to upload PDFs!



I assume the values are bar

Your working pressure is way too low - 3.2 bar is way down on the 7.2 bar it should be - the reverse should be more than 16 bar and you only have 6.6

This looks like a weak front pump problem - but - we should see how a new filter and oil behaves before we read it the last rites
Greg and I spoke Saturday, Filter change is NEXT.

Best of luck Greg.

.
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Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
2003 Volvo V70
2002 Honda Civic

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  #27  
Old 02-02-2014, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter View Post
Greg and I spoke Saturday, Filter change is NEXT.

Best of luck Greg.

.
Come on Greg - get a shift on! I can hardly contain my excitement (OK I don't get out much) => is this going to be proof that a new filter makes a difference in working pressure or not?
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #28  
Old 02-02-2014, 04:33 PM
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Ok Gent's, the pan is drained and off the car, also the filter has been removed. I didn't see it when taking these but in reviewing the images I saw something that was quite interesting along with the crap in the pan. Which was expected. Taking pic with ambient light didn't show the problem, but using a flash did. Notice the discoloration of oil in the pan, this is also on the filter and the bottom of the valve body.

Roy's as per your request, I will cut this filter open and get some pic's of it.

Let me know what you think, before I button it back up with a new filter.
Attached Thumbnails
240D potential transmission failure-picture-038_s5.jpg   240D potential transmission failure-picture-040_s6.jpg   240D potential transmission failure-picture-041_s7.jpg   240D potential transmission failure-picture-044_s8.jpg   240D potential transmission failure-picture-047_s9.jpg  

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  #29  
Old 02-02-2014, 04:35 PM
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Rest of Pic's. I did a double-take on this and went back and checked the pan again. That discoloration was only visible in using the flash.
Attached Thumbnails
240D potential transmission failure-picture-048_10.jpg   240D potential transmission failure-picture-050_11s.jpg   240D potential transmission failure-picture-051_12s.jpg  
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  #30  
Old 02-02-2014, 04:43 PM
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Have you got a magnet Greg?

Is this stuff magnetic?



It looks a little like brake band / clutch lining to me - which is paper based...

...dry it out and see what you think.

This still doesn't explain the low working pressure but it could indicate more trouble to come.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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