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  #91  
Old 06-15-2014, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charmalu View Post
I have been in Phoenix in July at 115 deg, sorry I will take all the AC I can get.

YA YA I know it is a dry heat, but I don` need to be dry roasted.


Charlie
OMG you are just full of excuses

You just can't do like a normal person and install a home ac



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  #92  
Old 06-16-2014, 09:57 AM
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I got the transmission reconnected to the shifter today, and wow was the gear-shift overhaul worth the effort, the thing feels so precise and tight now, it's like new. I also tightened up the drive line, I hope it's fine, rolled it back and forth a few feet, and the jacked up one side to get the wrench on the nut and crank it down, it's says 20 ft.lbs, but no what was getting a torque wrench on that sucker, it's basically gute-n-tite. Working to get the AC wrapped up, and then radiator filled with something, the debate between waterless coolant and regular Zerex G5 rages one in my own mind and here on the forum on another thread.

I filled the powersteering reservoir only to discover one of the nuts on the nits didn't get tightened enough...drip, drip, drip on the drive way.

On the list to do next is the rear spring replacement, I'm dreading this, scared to death of those things...wish me luck.
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1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission.
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  #93  
Old 06-16-2014, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by cooljjay View Post
OMG you are just full of excuses

You just can't do like a normal person and install a home ac

Might be a little noisy, but I'll bet is VERY cool in the cabin the that Lincoln.
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1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission.
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  #94  
Old 06-20-2014, 11:49 PM
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Got the new rear springs in, and the shocks that had been in the brown car (specified for a W126 of the era) they are a tight fit inside the spring, but seem just about perfect for the SLS conversion. The car sits perfectly level, and does seem to have amazing ground clearance now. I haven't driven in yet, so have no assessment of the ride or handling yet.

I decided on the waterless coolant, and filled it up with the radiator mounted, a new Nissens radiator, seems very well made. (I'd been waiting for some AC hoses, but I hope I can get them installed still with the radiator fixed in place).

So, after the multi-point check list, I connected the battery, and nothing arched or smoked...so I tried the key, and again nothing smoked or sparked, the brake light works, and the glow plug light works...so I primed the pump, and fired it up, was shocking how it started right up with just a nick of the starter on the flywheel. And it sounded fantastic.

I let it run, till the thermostat opened up, and the temp gauge only climbed slightly above the 80 mark...so I think all is well on the engine front.

There's still a lot of stuff I haven't connected, the temp wheel for the AC control, all of the console switches...etc.

Would all these things need to be connected for things like the IP lights (including the fiber optic spider), the reverse lights, etc to work? Also the fan blower doesn't work, is it because so much is still not connected? Do these things all need to be hooked up before the circuit is complete?
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1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission.
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  #95  
Old 06-21-2014, 01:21 AM
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Nope your lights should work as long as the cluster is installed and headlight switch. Its possible your rheostat is bad. Back up lights should also work, as mine did. Blower motor should also work as long as the plug on the center wheel is plugged in and blower...
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  #96  
Old 06-21-2014, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by cooljjay View Post
Nope your lights should work as long as the cluster is installed and headlight switch. Its possible your rheostat is bad. Back up lights should also work, as mine did. Blower motor should also work as long as the plug on the center wheel is plugged in and blower...
Looks like some tracking down of stuff needs to be done, and I hate electrical gremlins. I attempted to repair the rheostat and thought I'd managed it...I have the one from the brown car that is jumped and could try that to test the theory.

Thanks
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  #97  
Old 06-21-2014, 09:21 PM
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No problem, yeh try the jumped one and see if there is any change.

Also don't forget to go over your fuses and replace them with the copper/brass versions...

More then likely your germlins are from ground points. It seems like that is the most common.
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  #98  
Old 06-22-2014, 04:07 PM
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OK, got the fan motor working now, one of the plugs had a bad connection. The interior lights are still a mystery though. ONE light bulb lights up, the one in the temp dial wheel...all of the others remain off.
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  #99  
Old 03-07-2015, 01:31 PM
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No pics of the final results? No final results post at all?
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  #100  
Old 07-18-2015, 03:35 PM
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So, very sorry everyone! For a variety of reasons, I had to take a lengthy break from the project. I'll be getting back to it this month.
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1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission.
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  #101  
Old 09-10-2015, 08:53 PM
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was hoping to get to the end for a happy ending. i will continue to read your thread until done. can't wait till you get back to it. you're doing it right.
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  #102  
Old 06-03-2017, 12:54 PM
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Wow, when the crap hits it really hits. I had to take a long sabbatical from this project in no small part due to extensive travel. Filled up all the pages in my passport in less than 2 years. Also, stupidly took on a second car project with a 1982 VW Rabbit Diesel pickup. I'll post a photobucket for that project in case anyone is interested, I'll be selling that truck soon too, now that it's almost finished.

I'm getting back to the Mercedes now as well, as you can see from these pics I didn't totally stop on it, I've been doing all the body work, which took forever, since I'm incredibly slow with it. It's like drywall for me, I CAN do it, but am very SLOW at it.

The car is just about ready for primer now, I posted threads here for help with removing the sun roof, but got zero assistance with that, so paid the guy at Mercedes Source for his video to see how to do it, then regretted it when I found out how really simple it is. But, it was only $7.50 so oh well.

Have the roof panel out now, and will paint it off the car, along with the fuel filler door and rear quarter cargo area windows. The doors are staying on, and I'll do a two step process to paint the car, and then the jambs once the clear coat on the car has cured enough to be taped off. I messed up, and didn't degrease the jambs BEFORE getting to sanding the car, and now don't want to contaminate the surface area of the car anywhere in the process of cleaning the jambs. So, I'll foam tape the jambs off, paint the car, then once that paint is cured for a couple weeks, clean the jambs, mask off the car, and paint the jambs then. It all seems to be coming together, sort of, there's tons of crap I won't remember how to put back together

Also, I'll need to put the leather seat covers on the front seats still, which I bought two years ago. And find a carpet kit to install (any suggestions there?).

Thanks all, and sorry for disappearing, I actually have been around and contributing to the site when I could.
Attached Thumbnails
Finally, an intro to the 300TD manual project.-20170602_195616_hdr.jpg   Finally, an intro to the 300TD manual project.-20170602_195709_hdr.jpg  
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1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission.

Last edited by crazy4diesel; 06-05-2017 at 11:57 PM.
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  #103  
Old 06-13-2017, 04:28 PM
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Another update, did the jambs first

So, after much internal debate I decided to degrease, scuff and paint the jambs first. I only used epoxy primer, as I didn't want a build up of material in the jambs. Overall I'm pretty happy with it, there's one area I need to touch up along the top side under the drip rail on the passenger side, just didn't get enough clear there. I have what seems like plenty of light in the garage, but it's still amazing how you can't see crap, when you're actually painting.

Masking for the jambs, is a total pain in the butt!! But, I decided, if worst case, I have an issue with something, like paint being pulled off my tape, I'd rather it be in the jambs than on the surface, so that's why I opted for this order.
Attached Thumbnails
Finally, an intro to the 300TD manual project.-clear-coat.jpg   Finally, an intro to the 300TD manual project.-color-coat.jpg   Finally, an intro to the 300TD manual project.-epoxy-primer.jpg   Finally, an intro to the 300TD manual project.-mixing-day.jpg   Finally, an intro to the 300TD manual project.-starting-color-top.jpg  

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1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission.
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  #104  
Old 06-14-2017, 08:03 AM
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Clearly there is no further interest in this thread. It takes time, and if no one cares, there's not much point to keep it going. Thank you all for all your help.
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  #105  
Old 07-01-2017, 03:41 PM
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Lots of lurkers are out here watching and really appreciate your posts. We want to see this thing come together!

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