Thank you, that's the thread I was looking for. I'll pull the plug apart, but I suspect it's jumped as it's a manual transmission reverse light switch cable.

Mercedes is pretty cool about using the same hardware, and changing simple things depending on the equipment. It made the manual climate control swap into the automatic ACC car, really not so bad, once I had all the wires isolate. The only redundants I ended up with had to do with interior lights. Ditto for the manual trans, swap...what to do with the automatic gear selector lamp...no longer needed.

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1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission.

Installing a parallel flow aftermarket condenser, proved to be a challenge for me, because I am no fabricator by any stretch of the imagination.

Here's what I ended up with:







My hoses and fittings are all still a mess though, boggles the mind as to how many fittings there are, aluminum, steel, flare, o-ring, #6, #8, #10, #12...blah, blah, blah I got the biggest headache one day just trying to sort out what I needed.

It didn't help that I'd ordered the Sanden conversion kit from Klima and not from Rich (Rollguy), I didn't know of Rich's system at the time, which really sucks, because Klima just wants your money, you will not get one bit of support from them, and they'll send you the wrong freaking hoses at that. Knowing I was converting to 134a they sent hoses for R12...do not deal with Klima!

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1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission.

My hose kit will still work as long as you have the rear port head with a #10 & #8.

Worst case, you buy a complete hose kit, but maybe I can modify your existing hoses (from Klima) if they are wrong for less $.

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All Diesel Fleet
1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL
2005 E320 CDI (daily)

LOTS of parts for sale!


EGR block kit
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html

1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This!
Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst.

Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11):
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html

Thanks pvt message sent.

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1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission.

OMG quoting myself!

But here is a pic of the manual transmission reverse light plug...sure enough a factory jumper to disable the NSS.

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1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission.

Then you have to now ask yourself, is working ac worth all this

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A resounding YES! I can have manual windows and mirrors, no radio even, but no AC isn't an option, especially in a wagon with the solar load on them. I run way too hot.

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1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission.

Oh your just way to spoiled, what do you think a mercedes is a luxury car My ac is me driving down the freeway at 65 with all the windows down

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I have been in Phoenix in July at 115 deg, sorry I will take all the AC I can get.

YA YA I know it is a dry heat, but I don` need to be dry roasted.


Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

OMG you are just full of excuses

You just can't do like a normal person and install a home ac

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What did you use to clean the white cars engine compartment when it was still white? It looked great. A clean engine compartment really makes a car pop!

I used about a gallon of "oil eater" I love the stuff, works incredibly well. I also used about 4 harbor freight moving blankets to soak up the run off, bagged em, and disposed of them in the hazardous waste drop off. Once it wasn't too bad, I used more oil eater, with a Scotch sponge with a non-scratch pad on one side and just washed residue away using a pressure washer. Messy, and I got soaked all the angels in there, you are going to get back spray when you least expect it from the pressure washer. It's like ricochet city in there.

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1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission.

I got the transmission reconnected to the shifter today, and wow was the gear-shift overhaul worth the effort, the thing feels so precise and tight now, it's like new. I also tightened up the drive line, I hope it's fine, rolled it back and forth a few feet, and the jacked up one side to get the wrench on the nut and crank it down, it's says 20 ft.lbs, but no what was getting a torque wrench on that sucker, it's basically gute-n-tite. Working to get the AC wrapped up, and then radiator filled with something, the debate between waterless coolant and regular Zerex G5 rages one in my own mind and here on the forum on another thread.

I filled the powersteering reservoir only to discover one of the nuts on the nits didn't get tightened enough...drip, drip, drip on the drive way.

On the list to do next is the rear spring replacement, I'm dreading this, scared to death of those things...wish me luck.

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1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission.

Got the new rear springs in, and the shocks that had been in the brown car (specified for a W126 of the era) they are a tight fit inside the spring, but seem just about perfect for the SLS conversion. The car sits perfectly level, and does seem to have amazing ground clearance now. I haven't driven in yet, so have no assessment of the ride or handling yet.

I decided on the waterless coolant, and filled it up with the radiator mounted, a new Nissens radiator, seems very well made. (I'd been waiting for some AC hoses, but I hope I can get them installed still with the radiator fixed in place).

So, after the multi-point check list, I connected the battery, and nothing arched or smoked...so I tried the key, and again nothing smoked or sparked, the brake light works, and the glow plug light works...so I primed the pump, and fired it up, was shocking how it started right up with just a nick of the starter on the flywheel. And it sounded fantastic.

I let it run, till the thermostat opened up, and the temp gauge only climbed slightly above the 80 mark...so I think all is well on the engine front.

There's still a lot of stuff I haven't connected, the temp wheel for the AC control, all of the console switches...etc.

Would all these things need to be connected for things like the IP lights (including the fiber optic spider), the reverse lights, etc to work? Also the fan blower doesn't work, is it because so much is still not connected? Do these things all need to be hooked up before the circuit is complete?

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1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission.

Nope your lights should work as long as the cluster is installed and headlight switch. Its possible your rheostat is bad. Back up lights should also work, as mine did. Blower motor should also work as long as the plug on the center wheel is plugged in and blower...

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