cunifer lines are what I used for the rear lines all the way from the master cylinder, a breeze to work with.

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1982 240D 4-speed
2013 Jeep Wrangler Sport - 4.10 e-locker

Yes if it is flaired it will not be possible to use a compression fitting. Compression fittings only work on cut lines that are unmodified.

I dont want to spend $$$ on a flaring tool just to do two ends. Can you buy ready made cunifer lines? I would need about 50". And hopefully available from napa canada or another local store.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Buy the tool. I've been using a $15 generic tool for years just fine. The trick is to lubricate everything. Cunifer flares much easier than steel as well.

or

Rent the tool from autozoo

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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

I am in Ottawa and I got a 25' roll of cunifer from NoLimits auto parts, and I've also seen them at Benson auto parts. You definitely won't find it at CT or Partsource.

The tool wasn't very expensive, $30 from the Matco truck - and you don't need to be a "veteran mechanic" to use it. If you tried buying those $15 "clamp" type tools, you could end up buying a few of them before you find one that actually makes a decent bubble flare, better to get the right tool in the first place especially when it's not that much more.

If I only had to do the two lines from the T-connector, I would have just gone with the pre-flared steel lines from Canadian Tire. For me, it was more cost-effective to make my own. Plus, this whole project was for the purpose of learning.

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1982 240D 4-speed
2013 Jeep Wrangler Sport - 4.10 e-locker

heh, a customer came into a NAPA while I was shopping, and had his brake line from a corvette or similar... he wanted to replace it, the shop had the line, but no bending tools... the distraught customer was freaking about how to get the line to fit, and I told him, steel brake line is simple to just bend into shape... he looked at me crosseyed, and asked how and then gave up, and handed his original and new lines to me, and I promptly duplicated all the bends in the line by eye... he set them side by side, looked over everything, and was thrilled, and gave me $10 for the work...

it's NOT hard, and yes, a proper tubing bender likely makes it easier to get perfect bends, but steel lines are a breeze to bend by hand.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

I have done this sort of thing before, so don't see a problem with bending. But the line that goes from mc to pass side front has complex bends both sides. It look like I could make up one side, but then may have to feed line along firewall behind engine, and then do the other bends in place. Does this sound like way to do it?

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Yup. Bending in place is a little cramped at times, but typically yields the best results. Tape over the open end of the tube to keep dirt out.

__________________
$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

Contact a MB dealer parts desk. I bought a replacement brake line for the rear passenger side on my old '85 300TD ... pre-bent and it was about $20.

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Chad
2013 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL

I would definitely do that if they had a pre-bent tube and that it was possible to install it without removing the engine

The part in question, is right front brake tube part 1234207028. EPC says this part fits on 25 different models from old 123s to current model GLKs. I doubt they all use exactly same shape! As Stretch said earlier, the dealer likely sells straight lengths that can be adapted to various models.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Wow you're doing the line from the master cylinder to the back with out removing the sub frame? Errrm good luck with that - I've read that people have managed to do it - I wouldn't want to try it myself.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I am just having a beer after spending my afternoon looking up at the tee distributor. Is that what you mean by rear junction?

On my 85, that tee was quite easy to access. I installed new lines from tee to both rear wheels. Clamp behind diff was a bit tight to get at, but not that bad. The line from MC looked new. Don't recall, but shop must have done it when my fuel line was leaking.

I had to use butane torch on the tee to get the old lines off. I squeezed the old lines closed and then cut them off so I could get ring spanner on. Took several heat application to get joints to release.

I hope I am done. Rebuilt front calipers, new discs and pads all round, new flex hoses all round, new hard lines at rear. Bled brakes, pedal seems hard. Need to test drive once I do some wheel well paint touch up.

ADDED: Test drove and bedded pads gently as per TRW instructions. Everything seems to be OK. Even got the wheel well touch up done. Touched up wheels too. She is back on road as my around town daily driver.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

In the rustbelt it usually will mean replacing the brake line to the rear during a fuel line change. You start moving the old corroded line around and it usually leaks. When you replace the fuel lines properly you do have to really disturb it.

The only good thing about changing that line is I have gravity bled it and seemed to get no air in the system. Just waited until brake fluid flowed out and tightened the rear fitting.

At least now you have gotten familiar with dealing with the fittings in the system in the rustbelt. Heat is really about the only friend I have with them.

If you intend to keep the car for years think about greasing the bleeder screws. Then sliding a short piece of brake hose over them that fits snug . Then add a dab of grease on the top.

Even five years from now the bleeder will release like you just tightened it yesterday. Otherwise without heavy heat you may break them off or strip the nut portion.

As far as I know nobody does a lot of little things I do with cars as they were my ideals as far as I know. I guess most people do not do the simple equations. Anything that is both simple and cheap to do and is of some benefit even for some other owner down the road. Why not do it? You may even still be the owner when the need is present again.