240D refresh time - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

JB3 · #31 09-02-2014, 08:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gatorblue92

For those who have done the swap is it easier to remove the engine while you do the swap or should I leave the engine alone? I honestly don't have any reason to remove it from the red car but I am planning on pulling it from the parts car to either rebuild or sell as is. I have driven the parts car about 5 miles just to make sure the transmission is good to go and assess the health of the engine and it is way down on power but it does run very smooth at idle. I think 55mph is the top speed.

Id pull the gearbox first then pull the motor. The 4 speed is so manageable that its not a big job. Top bolts accessible from the engine compartment, the rest of the bellhousing
Bolts are easily accessible from underneath.

Look at it this way, you are already down there to undo the driveshaft and one bellhousing bolt anyway to remove the ground strap plus the trans mount crossmember and shift linkage. Might as well get the rest of the bell bolts and yank the gearbox. Then later the motor can be pulled straight up and out with ease

Dont forget to grab all the bellhousing spring washers! ,if the donor car doesnt have them make sure to install them on the maroon 240

DieselPaul · #32 09-02-2014, 09:56 AM

On the parts car, I undo the motor mounts, undo the flex disc, undo the clutch hose (or cut the hose if the fittings are stuck, the hose is still available and if you soak the rusty fittings in penetrating oil and get a good bite with flare nut wrenches, you can usually get the fittings moving for the re-installation). Undo fuel lines, coolant lines, etc.

Then remove the radiator, and the AC condenser.

Cut the core support but the headlights on either side of where the radiator was, you're scrapping the shell, why preserve metal that's about to get smashed in a crusher.

Grab the motor with a hoist, lift a little, and pull straight out.

Get under the car, undo the rear flex disc, and the carrier, and pull the whole driveshaft out.

When I do manual swaps and I have the parts car I just swap in the whole driveshaft.

On the car you are keeping, its easy to drop a 240D transmission with the motor still in the car. I've done it more than once just using floor jacks and jack stands. Lift would make it much easier, but not necessary by any stretch of the imagination.

Reassembly is easier than the dis-assembly as the manual is much smaller and lighter.

gatorblue92 · #33 09-02-2014, 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DieselPaul

On the parts car, I undo the motor mounts, undo the flex disc, undo the clutch hose (or cut the hose if the fittings are stuck, the hose is still available and if you soak the rusty fittings in penetrating oil and get a good bite with flare nut wrenches, you can usually get the fittings moving for the re-installation). Undo fuel lines, coolant lines, etc.

Then remove the radiator, and the AC condenser.

Cut the core support but the headlights on either side of where the radiator was, you're scrapping the shell, why preserve metal that's about to get smashed in a crusher.

Grab the motor with a hoist, lift a little, and pull straight out.

Get under the car, undo the rear flex disc, and the carrier, and pull the whole driveshaft out.

When I do manual swaps and I have the parts car I just swap in the whole driveshaft.

On the car you are keeping, its easy to drop a 240D transmission with the motor still in the car. I've done it more than once just using floor jacks and jack stands. Lift would make it much easier, but not necessary by any stretch of the imagination.

Reassembly is easier than the dis-assembly as the manual is much smaller and lighter.

Thank you!

My next question is should I buy an engine stand to store the parts motor or is it safe to leave it sitting on the floor? I am planning on running it with some fresh diesel from a jug in the engine so whoever gets it will not have a gummed up IP from the bio/WVO/WMO mix the car was run on.

If anyone is interested in the complete engine let me know. I am keeping the flywheel but everything else will be up for grabs.

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gatorblue92 · #34 09-08-2014, 05:26 AM

Looks like I am going to use the springs from the parts car. The rear on the 77 is really squatting.

Stretch · #35 09-08-2014, 07:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gatorblue92

...

My next question is should I buy an engine stand to store the parts motor or is it safe to leave it sitting on the floor?...

If you are not going to be working on the engine - flipping it upside down and removing the crank then flipping it the other way to do blah de blah de blah...

...I wouldn't be buying an engine stand. Put it in a safe place. Support it on cheapo soft wood and let it sit on the lower oil pan and the bottom of the adapter plate. Cheapo soft wood is great it has a good combination of stiffness to support heavy things with a certain amount of give if the supported things are heavy.

Whether the engine will be "safe" on the floor depends on the dexterity of you in your size 12s, local wild life, flooding, visiting children, nosy neighbours etc etc etc (!)

Stretch · #36 09-08-2014, 07:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gatorblue92

Looks like I am going to use the springs from the parts car. The rear on the 77 is really squatting.

Why have two vehicles got the same number plate? Is this like in Switzer-austria-or-is-it-monaco-land where number plates identify people rather than cars?

JB3 · #37 09-08-2014, 07:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stretch

Why have two vehicles got the same number plate? Is this like in Switzer-austria-or-is-it-monaco-land where number plates identify people rather than cars?

he probably cannot have a plateless vehicle on his property, so shazam! front plate from one vehicle becomes rear plate for another.

ones on the left look like special historic plates to me actually. do you have two sets of that plate gator?

gatorblue92 · #38 09-08-2014, 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JB3

he probably cannot have a plateless vehicle on his property, so shazam! front plate from one vehicle becomes rear plate for another.

ones on the left look like special historic plates to me actually. do you have two sets of that plate gator?

That's exactly right. I didn't want any issues with a car that looks like it belongs in Beirut in my driveway without a tag so I put the non historic tag from the 77 on it. The black tag is a historic porcelain tag that Delaware used prior to 1959 I think. Anyone with a tag number under 87000 can get one.

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Stretch · #39 09-08-2014, 11:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gatorblue92

That's exactly right. I didn't want any issues with a car that looks like it belongs in Beirut in my driveway...

You mean you didn't want your driveway to look like a scrap yard????

Really???

(There must be something wrong with you!)

You should be aspiring for that two cars up on sticks chez Stretch look - it is the new black...

leathermang · #40 09-08-2014, 11:49 AM

In some places having a ' fictitious' plate on a car is a criminal offense...
but having a non tagged car is a local code violation..
I think one of our members many years ago spent a week or so in a jail between here and Houston learning that lesson....

gatorblue92 · #41 09-08-2014, 02:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

In some places having a ' fictitious' plate on a car is a criminal offense...
but having a non tagged car is a local code violation..
I think one of our members many years ago spent a week or so in a jail between here and Houston learning that lesson....

Neither is a good option. I just put the tag on to placate the HOA while the car was stored outside. I pulled it in the garage yesterday and it's never going to move under its own power again (that's kinda sad)

I was planning on starting the strip party yesterday but my hot water heater had other ideas. I spent my Sunday replacing it instead of prepping the engine for removal.

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JB3 · #42 09-08-2014, 03:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

In some places having a ' fictitious' plate on a car is a criminal offense...
but having a non tagged car is a local code violation..
I think one of our members many years ago spent a week or so in a jail between here and Houston learning that lesson....

theres a considerable difference between a fictitious plate, and a plate registered to gatorblue on a new to him car he probably has a bill of sale for with his name on it.

Many states have rules that allow your plate to be on a new car until fully registered. a gray area perfect for a short outside storage time until he pulls it in and parts it.

leathermang · #43 09-08-2014, 03:19 PM

Having two cars sitting next to each other with the SAME numbers on both the plates is a different category...

A plate, ViN and inspection sticker are all supposed to match...

JB3 · #44 09-08-2014, 03:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

Having two cars sitting next to each other with the SAME numbers on both the plates is a different category...

A plate, ViN and inspection sticker are all supposed to match...

yup, but neither plate is "fictitious". Both are Gatorblue's legal license plate. as I said, big difference between your personal plate legal to you, and a stolen or random plate.

I think you can relax. Both cars are inside a garage, and one is being parted out. As he explained, while the blue car was outside, he had to put a plate on it for the HOA. the red car was garaged. apart from this photo op, these cars aren't parked in public with matching plates.

cooljjay · #45 09-09-2014, 03:07 AM

HA, you guys are funny....I have used the plate on my 78 on my euro and my plate on my euro on my 78....depends on which one has insurance to what plate I switch....

So yeh I suspect to see the same mob with pitch forks and torches on my front lawn(aka rock/sand) after they get done with gatorblue...