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#76
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Think i can get it out with just a floor jack or is a transmission jack a must? |
#77
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A tranny jack would be really helpful, or you could build a cage out of wood that sits on the end of a regular floor jack. The auto is pretty heavy and can be awkward, plus spills a lot of fluid in the struggle to remove it, so its a pain using you knees to balance it on the end of a regular floor jack.
Harbor freight sells a cheap scissor style tranny jack which is just great though.
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This post brought to you by Carl's Jr. |
#78
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Disconnected the shifter, control rod, dipstick all fluid lines last night. I also drained the transmission since on this old style the dipstick attaches to the bottom of the pan with a banjo bolt.
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#79
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#80
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Hard parts over!
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This post brought to you by Carl's Jr. |
#81
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Now all I need to do is order all new clutch parts. I'm hoping for a black friday/cyber monday sale at one of the fine MB parts suppliers
The old clutch looked like it had some life left but I really only want to do this once so I'm getting everything new. |
#82
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Ran into a massive problem today. Two of the flex plate bolts are rounded off. No idea how to proceed. I have already tried to use a bolt out with no success. I'm nearly ready to pull the motor and use the parts car engine.
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#83
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Well I dodged two bullets tonight. I found a thread from R Leo when he did his 4 speed swap and he ran into the exact same problem and he had to grind off the bolt heads to get the flex disk off.
Auto -> Manual Transmission Conversion Has Begun. See post 36. |
#84
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For others later on... sometimes you can not get a grinder to a rounded off bolt head... but sometimes you can place a drilled out nut over it....and use ' alloy rod' to weld it to the bolt head... to then give you something to use a socket on....it also helps that welding heats the bolt... let it cool before addressing it.
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#85
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Ive had to grind off quite a few of the SOBs as well. The manual flywheel bolts with twice the tool depth will be a pleasure to install
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#86
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Aren't all bolts that way ?
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#87
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not in the way the flywheel bolts are if they were installed to their torque value. Ive broken off plenty of heads on regular bolts ive then had to drill and try and remove with an easy out cause the sucker was still plenty tight on the threads alone.
The auto flywheel bolts have that narrow distinctive stretch neck and are i think a one or two time use compared to a regular bolt. If you cut the head off, they are finger tight and the rest of the bolt can be unscrewed easily.
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This post brought to you by Carl's Jr. |
#88
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Can you be a little more specific.... like the physics you claiming...?
I think the difference you are attributing the difference in removing effort of other bolts after their heads are taken off is due to intervening variables such as percent of thread contact and corrosion ..... Not a difference in the basic concept of the threads pulling against the bottom of the bolt head to produce what we think of as torque and hope that it translates to pull down on the item needing to be held.
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#89
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This post brought to you by Carl's Jr. |
#90
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Although I've never had to cut off / drill away one of these flywheel bolts I can see how once the tension in the waisted portion of the bolt is released the remaining threaded portion is likely to be easy to remove. Most of the elastic movement is designed to occur in the waisted shank of these bolts.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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