New 220D owner, need direction - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

leathermang · #16 09-27-2014, 12:34 PM

OIL BATH FILTER....
the filter for your incoming air before it gets to the engine...
while it is ancient technology.....
IF properly maintained ... IT WILL CATCH SMALLER particles than any paper element filter.... it is messy to deal with... and needs to be addressed regularly.... more if in dusty climates... but a reliable design if serviced properly.

leathermang · #17 09-27-2014, 12:36 PM

""It was only #2 cylinder that had oil. Which points towards valve stem seals?""
No, I suggest it points to something else... not sure which of the possibilities... but a single cylinder with oil does not first suggest stem seals to me...

Shortsguy1 · #18 09-27-2014, 05:42 PM

In the OPs original post, he said "I have glow plugs out, can't turn it by hand. Starter will still move it over with no clanking." Does this make any sense at all to anyone? I feel like a major hint is hiding in this detail. Something is clearly jamming the engine physically if one cannot turn it over by hand, despite having no compression. Since the starter is able to overcome this jam, could the starter itself be causing the jam (as suggested earlier)? Or perhaps it is just strong enough to overcome the jam. But this detail feels like it needs more discussion.

leathermang · #19 09-27-2014, 05:57 PM

Shortsguy1,
Well, we are not usually in the habit of discussing things here... but I am up for it...LOL

FIRST ... WHAT does ' by hand ' mean to him ?

if it means trying to pull on a belt by hand... one thing..
but if it means using a socket and ratchet on the CRANK BOLT... the proper way... then there clearly seems to be a problem overlooked so far in the discussion..

Lucas · #20 09-28-2014, 02:08 PM

Hey they is a page 2! Just noticed all this.

First and foremost, tranny out, flywheel pulled off (I marked it), and still no turn. Yes I'm using a socket and breaker bar. I even put my jack handle on the end of the bar, won't budge. A non mercedes buddy was surprised the starter could crank it while I couldn't, but as you know its a big heavy SOB. I have it out and the motor won't budge. I hooked the starter up with it out and tested it, it pops in and out fine, and looks like its really new.

With the lack of noise upon cranking with starter, but no ability to turn over by hand, I'm really leaning towards a crank bearing. Probably near the back of motor as my buddy heard the noise coming from that direction. I noticed this too with a stethoscope.

Im gonna pull the valve cover just in case I see something major, but I think this SOB is coming out today.

If I rebuild this thing, Im wondering if I can bore it out and sleeve into a 616? I'm unsure of the differences in these motors, but I can't find rings, and only found one size in crank bearings, last one available too. I guess I should start cross referencing part numbers on 615 and 616, but if anyone knows anything...

Lucas · #21 09-28-2014, 02:13 PM

One last though, I stuck my finger in the pilot bearing and it spun nice. The cap is a little tweaked, probably from the last clutch job. Clutch looks like half life, I haven't mic'd it yet.

TheDon · #22 09-28-2014, 02:15 PM

I use penzoil synchromesh in my 4 speed which should be the same version you have (iron box with aluminum bell) and it shifts great. Read up on oiling the injection pump, it has an oil reservoir

Don't worry about the clutch, they are so easy to replace, just drive.

I will say replace your shifter bushings if they are gone and rebuilt the shifter

leathermang · #23 09-28-2014, 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lucas

..... A non mercedes buddy was surprised the starter could crank it while I couldn't, but as you know its a big heavy SOB. I have it out and the motor won't budge. ...

Once you join our fraternity you are really supposed to let those non mercedes buddies fade into the woods..

I too am surprised that with you not being able to turn it.. the starter would..

On a V8 the typical specs from the factory on a rebuilt engine specify below 100 ft lbs.... of course that is with the spark plugs out... just measuring friction to turn it over...

I would not lean too far towards anything.... as sound travels really well in steel...

I know you are excited about fixing this engine... but you may have trouble finding parts for it.... the 240 engine was in a lot more vehicles...and they are younger than your car and engine... You need to find the ENGINE FSM for the
615,616,617 NA engines.... to really be able to assess your future problems with some sense of reality....

Lucas · #24 09-28-2014, 02:53 PM

yep. Shes coming out. Tear her down and see whats happening. Need to research more on rebuild options, finding parts, boring to 240d specs and sleeving, or I found a 83 300td for $1200 with a manual...

leathermang · #25 09-28-2014, 02:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lucas

....... I found a 83 300td for $1200 with a manual...

WHAT ????????

If that is a factory manual car... meaning it is not turbo.....
GO GET IT right NOW....

Lucas · #26 09-28-2014, 03:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

Once you join our fraternity you are really supposed to let those non mercedes buddies fade into the woods..

I too am surprised that with you not being able to turn it.. the starter would..

On a V8 the typical specs from the factory on a rebuilt engine specify below 100 ft lbs.... of course that is with the spark plugs out... just measuring friction to turn it over...

I would not lean too far towards anything.... as sound travels really well in steel...

I know you are excited about fixing this engine... but you may have trouble finding parts for it.... the 240 engine was in a lot more vehicles...and they are younger than your car and engine... You need to find the ENGINE FSM for the
615,616,617 NA engines.... to really be able to assess your future problems with some sense of reality....

Haha. Yeah those people don't get it.

Got the FSM for a range of years. Digital version.

I'm not the strongest guy, but I have cranked over a 4bd2t by hand with the glow plugs out. I'm pretty sure I'm locked up in there.

The 240 would really be an easier swap I guess. Im wondering if the only difference is bore, if I can drop 240 pistons and sleeves into this block. Research and cost assessment needed.

Lucas · #27 09-28-2014, 03:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

WHAT ????????

If that is a factory manual car... meaning it is not turbo.....
GO GET IT right NOW....

No its a swap. Waiting for a call back. I assume a 4spd swap. Its turbo. Should I assume these motors are like others? You dont want turbo because it disintegrates and eats up valves and such?

leathermang · #28 09-28-2014, 03:12 PM

Turbo's are great.... but the factory did not put them with manual transmissions...
if that is Turbo you can figure he has found out it has vibration problems...and that is why he is wanting to get rid of it.....
and you do not want those headaches... in my opinion...

Lucas · #29 09-28-2014, 03:18 PM

alright. and thats the deal with those shock absorbers. So in reality, I don't want a turbo motor? i guess I'm trying to get from A to B in some style and sweet mpg, so 240D is my best option?

leathermang · #30 09-28-2014, 03:24 PM

My opinion is a 240 is great... but needs to be a 123 to find parts.... and swap things out reasonably.... the 115 has different oil filter system...
a turbo five cylinder with working auto is fine.. but has little hand room in engine compartment... a five cylinder Non Turbo with a manual trans.... is about the best combo to do all your own labor...
a 240 is under powered in general... is not safe on many roads these days with short Merge Lanes....
if you get a 240 then the manual trans is pretty much bullet proof...