I had a injector pump replaced and the timing is too retarded, it is adjusted as far as it can be, so I need to remove it and retime it. when they installed it, they had to have gotten it off by one tooth.

1 My question is what holds the timing gear in place when you remove the pump?

2 I read that the motor needs to be 24 degrees BTDC on the compression stroke, and then there are timing marks on the pump to lined up before reinstalling it.
I now have a drip tube to do the final setting.
Thanks Russ

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Thanks RussK
Younger than some.... older than others.

The Drive end of the Fuel Injection Pump has what I don't know if you could call a gear but there is a short cylinder that has a lot of fine splines on it. On the Cylinder is a spot were 2 splines are gone and that lines up with a Mark on the bearing Cap on the front of the Fuel Injection Pump.

That drive end slides into a floating Collar. That means that the Timing/Timer has nothing to get messed up when you remove the Fuel Injection Pump.

If the Stuck the Pump in with the Splined Cylider is lined up properly when it was stuck in when they stuck the Fuel Injection Pump back in they simply did not center the Kidney Slots on the Fuel Injection Pump on the 3 Studs that are on the Block. If they are not centerd.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

The other post being said some of the Models older then My 1984, I can't remember what dates have The Mark on the Fuel Injection Pump Bearing Caps marked wrong and the timing proceedure is different.

You need to say what year and model you have and if you think it has the original fuel injection pump.

Notice the correctly marked Fuel Injection Pump has the mark on the Bering Cap almost inline with one of the Screws. The incorrecly marked one has the line on the Bearing Cap away from the Screw.

For more info:Repair Links
Fast navigation Fast navigation Do It Yourself Links

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Sorry, its a 1981 300Gd with a euro M style injection pump.
Its right now fully adjusted in the advance position, It runs rough and more smoke than it should when you start it and accelerating. Its drinking fuel and running hotter than it should with very hot EGTs.

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Thanks RussK
Younger than some.... older than others.

you drip timed it? one drop per one sec? or close to it...

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w126 500SEC gen II euro, powered by OM617 turbo stolen from 84 300SD 2.88 diff,EGR blinded
next wish/project: w114 coupe OM603 powered

They supposed to have when they installed it, but its still off.
I'm going to try to do it this weekend, so Im trying to find enough info so I don't screw up something.

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Thanks RussK
Younger than some.... older than others.

maybe you dont have to remove pump at all...first try to drip it properly
if not successful then you can remove and index pump again...

diy here


edit:
in diy it is not specified for non-turbo 617 but you can go 24 BTDC


cheers

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w126 500SEC gen II euro, powered by OM617 turbo stolen from 84 300SD 2.88 diff,EGR blinded
next wish/project: w114 coupe OM603 powered

Do you know if your Pump about level with the Lift Pump but to the rear on the Governor has the 17mm Plug that allows you to use the Timing Locking Pin?

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

pump with third bosch model number 251


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w126 500SEC gen II euro, powered by OM617 turbo stolen from 84 300SD 2.88 diff,EGR blinded
next wish/project: w114 coupe OM603 powered

Thanks.

Do you know if his Fuel Injection Pump has the 17mm Plug on the side where you can insert the Timing Locking Pin?

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I shipped several to Sweden for upgrade and all had them....

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w126 500SEC gen II euro, powered by OM617 turbo stolen from 84 300SD 2.88 diff,EGR blinded
next wish/project: w114 coupe OM603 powered

Apologies for reviving an old thread

Please explain this number to me. Where do I look for it?

My 1982 n/a engine with MW pump (South African spec) feels lethargic, and I believe this could be the cause.

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1995 W202 C250 Diesel, OM605 NA engine, 5-speed manual
1986 W123 200, OM617 NA engine, 5-speed manual, rev counter
1989 W126 300SE, 5-speed manual

I never knew what pump numbers or years had the mis-mark issues. I believe I read it in the factory service manual but that would be for US models.

In the attached diagram a correctly marked pump is shown the timing mark on the bearing cap lines up with the centerline of the Bearing Cap Screw (I am going to say at 10 o'clock position). On the mis-marked bearing cap the mark on the Bearing Cap is past the center line of the screw and at about 11 o'clock position.

The only member I can recall that had a pump mis-marked when he installed it he had obvious issues that could not be ignored. In your cease it sounds like you are running too good.
I think you ought to just try drip demining in the normal manner.

Stay away from the 13mm nuts on each side of the Delivery Valve holders.

Here is what is written in the manual. On Bosch Production Code "251" (November 1982) the mark for begin of delivery may be applied to the wrong spot on the bearing cap.
I have no idea where the production code appears on the Tag of the Fuel Injection Pump.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

If you do remove the pump you'll soon realize how difficult it is to remove the lower nut on the three stud injector mounting flange.

I've had great luck using a 13mm socket on a series of 1/4" wobble extensions threaded between the injection pump and the engine block.

This procedure may or may not work on your particular setup but it might be worth a shot.

Why not take it back to wherever swapped out the IP and have them do the job properly?

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap