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  #31  
Old 04-01-2015, 12:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shertex View Post
Ordering 40 today....one issue I'll never have to deal with again.
IIRC, NAPA sells anti-seize dressing for wheel lug nuts and bolts. Not sure why the hub-ub about something that's not a problem if addressed properly with the dressing?

I've got almost 30 years without any problems using it.

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  #32  
Old 04-01-2015, 12:17 AM
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Originally Posted by sixto View Post
If you're not up to applying anti-seize to the threads, at least apply some to the ball.

When the shop says they use a torque wrench, ask them what the torque spec is. And if they know how to use it. I've seen a shop gorilla lean on a torque wrench a quarter turn past the click.

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  #33  
Old 04-01-2015, 09:52 AM
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also remember that our cars wheels are hub centric, the hub snout locates the wheel on itself and takes the load too, the bolts assist in keeping the wheel flat on the hub face. Due to this reason monumental torque is not required on the bolts.

as SRJ pointed out on the antisieze compound on the threads of the lug bolts - I have seen it being used on some volvos and BMWs along with a spray of grease on the hub/disc face to prevent the wheel sticking on it.
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  #34  
Old 04-01-2015, 10:57 AM
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Lug bolts and anti-seize and bears, Oh My!

I replaced all W210 lug bolts some years ago but kept the old ones and a couple of years later repurposed them to serve the W124 when I put W210 wheels on it. I made sure the lugs and the wheels are clean and I put a very light coat of anti-seize on the threads, then wiped most of that off. After mounting the wheels, I torque them and check the torque a couple of times during the following week to make sure there's no change (usually is none). Finally, I never allow tire shops to touch my cars.

Jeremy
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  #35  
Old 04-07-2015, 07:18 AM
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Got the bolts...one car done, one car getting done. The appearance of the recessed bolts takes some getting used to. The car getting done only has one bolt head broken off...hopefully that will be all. My mechanic said the worst he's seen on a W210 is five heads broken off. $$$
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  #36  
Old 04-07-2015, 10:35 AM
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What concerns me about buying aftermarket bolts, is their quality. There are many instances of even bridges falling down because faked low cost bolts were used.

I don't recall seeing grade of bolt stamped on even our original bolts (typical markings below). Are they there? And how about on aftermarket bolts?

This is a good article on bolting in general as well as use of lubricants:

Torque Wrench 101.

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  #37  
Old 04-07-2015, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shertex View Post
Got the bolts...one car done, one car getting done. The appearance of the recessed bolts takes some getting used to. The car getting done only has one bolt head broken off...hopefully that will be all. My mechanic said the worst he's seen on a W210 is five heads broken off. $$$
where did you get the bolts? and which ones? how much?
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  #38  
Old 04-07-2015, 10:52 AM
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The bolts I got are Febi Bilstein, so I assume they are of good quality. BMA had them for $2.90 per bolt, less 5% coupon, and free shipping. I believe Mercedes part is 2034010270. $6.00 per bolt at dealer.
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  #39  
Old 04-15-2015, 12:55 PM
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An update: five count 'em five of the lug bolts wouldn't budge. This ties the record for the worst my mechanic has ever seen on a W210. So a simple summer tire changeover is going to end up being a bit expensive. Wish me luck in getting Firestone to take responsibility for this fiasco!
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06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
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1961 Very Tolerant Wife
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  #40  
Old 04-15-2015, 01:03 PM
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Good Luck! I'd be interested to see if they own up. Doubt they will.

I had a shop do that to me one, use the impact to tighten them down on my W124. I had to use the 17mm lug wrench with a 5 foot lead pipe breaker bar...literally jumping on it to break it free.

Ended up bending the Mercedes lug wrench. The wrench was HOT to the touch at the bend point!
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  #41  
Old 04-15-2015, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shertex View Post
An update: five count 'em five of the lug bolts wouldn't budge. This ties the record for the worst my mechanic has ever seen on a W210. So a simple summer tire changeover is going to end up being a bit expensive. Wish me luck in getting Firestone to take responsibility for this fiasco!
try finding a solid metal piece to use as a punch. Aim it correctly on the bolt head and hit the bolt head hard with a very heavy hammer - the trick is to hit it to the force goes down the shaft of it. It will break the bond in most cases.
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  #42  
Old 04-17-2015, 04:33 PM
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$588 was the final tally.....most expensive summer changeover ever!
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19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
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  #43  
Old 04-17-2015, 05:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shertex View Post
$588 was the final tally.....most expensive summer changeover ever!
OUCH!

I'd be handing that bill to the Firestone manager (well, not if it includes all of the replacement lug bolts) and asking him to pass it along to his insurer if he doesn't want to pay up. If he's reluctant, ask him if he is the person who would receive service of process for the lawsuit you will file. It will cost him lots more than that to hire an attorney.

Good luck.
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  #44  
Old 04-27-2015, 07:49 PM
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Ok one of my lug bolts broke on my wides 210. Same wheel she had a blow out on last year and see had a shop repair it. I recall those bolts were a bear to remove so I'm thinking metal fatigue sets in. Anyways nothing 7 hours of drilling couldn't fix.
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  #45  
Old 05-02-2015, 10:02 PM
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Today I switched my wheel from winters to summer. Last fall, I had shop install the snows. They only charge $25 to R&R wheels, set pressures, mark where wheels were and put wheels in bags - so it is tempting.

However, for first time, I had trouble getting some of the lug bolts out. And three of them wouldn't budge. I have impact wrench and it wouldn't move them. I tried by hand using my large torque wrench. Still no go, but I think I could have broken the bolts if I applied any more force.

I tried using a brass drift and hammering the bolt heads. Still no go. I tried to get some WD-40 down between wheel and brake disk hat. I also applied heat to bolt heads and to brake disk hat in area of bolt (using small butane torch). Then I used my impact wrench and reversed it back & forth a few times. Then simply held it and let it hammer away for a minute or so, and the studs popped out.

I doubt this would happen again if I install myself and limit torque to 80ft.lb. But, I think I should try and source a set of new style bolts. I have all summer to find a good price in Canada!

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