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  #1  
Old 07-15-2015, 10:20 AM
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Location: Ooltewah, TN
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Copart.com experience?

Anyone have any experience purchasing Insurance/salvage vehicles from this company? I've read the info on the site but its somewhat involved with several different options for bidding. Would really appreciate some first hand experience as there's an MB I've spotted that's got me interested.

Thanks!

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Old 07-15-2015, 01:54 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: 2021 - The Great Florida Count-down
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LOVE IT ! I have bought 5 cars so far and NOT A LEMON YET !

Here's my son's senior year gift, graduation gift, and going off to college gift. Paid $7,400 for car. 2014 with less than 11K on the clock. Scored a tremendous deal on tires and rims, since I needed 2. Repairs are well under $1,500 by a pro.

I used to flip cars a few years ago until my Dad got sick and I started taking care of my parents, so little time ...

Make sure you have plenty of buying power, 1:10. I normally deposit $2,000 which gives me $20,000. Then, once I buy the car, I get my deposit back. Time the deposit with your credit card, et cet. Make sure you have the $$$ on hand to WIRE the funds. Saves money.
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Last edited by greazzer; 07-16-2015 at 08:43 AM. Reason: corrected "2014"
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Old 07-17-2015, 03:24 PM
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Greazzer - do you have a car dealer's license? The car I'm interested in is in S Carolina and even though I signed up to be a Copart member I'm unable to bid on it and am having to utilize a brooker to perform my bidding at a cost of $200.

What's your experience with Copart's buying fees? If I understand correctly, those are around $400 on a $1,500 winning bid? What's your experience with the insurance companies "no sale"ing cars?

Strikes me that cheap cars are not to be found as you have a $500- $600 of associated fees plus the winning bid? Appears this is geared more toward newish cars like the one in your pictures?
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Old 07-17-2015, 04:41 PM
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Wrongo-bongo.

NO Broker's license is needed in about half the states. I target GA and NC as they require no broker. Just google "Copart and no broker needed states" You will find a color coded map. Just go through CoPart to buy a car. Forget the broker. I drove to Savanah and back in a buddy's truck and it was around $125, and that included a U-Haul flatbed trailer and gas. For that 2014 Challenger, and keep in mind that I paid sales tax just like any other car through a dealer, my total take home was under $8,500.00. So, it's very very cheap overall since the sales tax was around $550-$575. I have the invoice somewhere. So, it's Copart fee which was a few hundred bucks, a gate fee of $30 bucks, and internet auction fee of $79 bucks, and that's it.

I bought my son's current beater which is a 2000 Buick Regal with 70K on the clock for $800 and take home was barely over a grand back in 2013 (something like $1008 bucks). The receipt in the glove box was for $625 just for new tires that were about 3 days old ... lol, so you really cannot go wrong.
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Old 07-23-2015, 10:54 AM
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Greazzer - bought the car. Copart expenses were $304 on a $1,300 car. Won the bid at $950 but that didn't meet State Farm's reserve of $2,500 which was silly high for the car. Negotiated via multiple e-mails to arrive at $1,300 which was still too much but I had a very compelling need for the front clip. Only unexpected problem was Copart damaged the lower front bumper cover moving the vehicle around with those huge fork lifts they utilize.

Thanks for your insights in the process. Like yourself, I'll probably use them again.
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Old 08-22-2015, 08:39 AM
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Congradts !

My bad for not providing other info and insight that I have picked up over the last few years.

1. Never buy a car with a reserve or "minimum". Those cars are not worth it IMO. Lesson learned although without any consequences: Bidding and "won" a W123 Coupe which was beyond mint condition at location in SC. I was willing to pay the dealer fee of $200 plus all the other milk and cookie money. Got the winning quote at $950. Car had reserve. Seller wanted $1,500, which was certainly a more than fair price. However, an auction is an auction. I offered $1,000 as my BAFO. Said nope, wanted $1,100 as their last BAFO. So, I walked. About 2 months later, same exact car pops up. This time, no reserve. I did not quote because I was flush with cars and parts, and projects. Car sold for $800. So, I automatically filter those cars out.

2. If you can, visit the car. I don't mind driving when I can. Right now, lower back issues are making driving about impossible. But, if you have the time and ability, go check them out. Some cars look horrible, but are not. Others look "OK", but are disasters in the making.

Here's my son's car about 5 weeks after buying it. $1,540 at the body shop. Cannot tell anywhere that the car was totaled. Got around $10,000 in equity in the car. Son has the coolest, or one of the coolest cars in his HS parking lot. If he gets a couple tickets, I can sell the car quick for a profit or he has a great starter car for college next year too. So, another COPART success story IMO. I really like COPART.
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