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#16
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#17
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So, I looked through the pages Jay posted in his previous post. Based on that info, the plastic holders that the main regulating rod (no. 6) goes through are loose. Therefore the rod can be jiggle back and forth. I m not sure if this is normal, as in it was done this way from the factory to compensate for engine vibration etc. Or these plastic bushings are bad. I cant seem to locate any part that would fit this; therefore right now I think I will either try to disassemble/reassemble everything back up tight or just leave it alone.
What do you think? I will try to post a video tomorrow of the bushings and the play I am talking about. Jay, I would really appreciate if you could let me know if the regulating rods on your car "jiggle" or have play. Thanks |
#18
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I totally forgot to check, antenna repair move on to tires, and fuses and injector...etc...
I call this the Mercedes snowball effect All the part numbers for the linkage can be found here but I suggest ordering from this site as they are cheaper... 1978 Mercedes 300 TD CONTROL
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#19
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WOW!! Dude!
Thanks!!! <3 |
#20
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If you get a chance, sign up for the EPC....Its free, think it cost a 1$ to verify who you are....but it has all the diagrams and part numbers....Goes by your vin...Can even get a data card to tell you what options the car was ordered with....I have to much fun with it....Until I search the part numbers and see the prices lol
http://epc.startekinfo.com/
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#21
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AircoledTech.com's "Tools-On-The-Cheap" Wheel balancing With Beads This yields by far the smoothest ride I've ever had. It never goes out of balance and theres no wheel weights to lose.
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#22
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One of the things I've discovered is that since the shops in NY have moved away from lead weights, wheel weights are larger than they used to be. The significance of that is that when they put clip on weights on the inside of my wheels, they sometimes interfere with the outer tie rod ends. Not only does this produce a regular vibration, it can tear the rod end boots to shreds. And sometimes the weights are just knocked off the wheel. When I have my wheels balanced, I now ask that they use adhesive weights on the inside of the rim.
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#23
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BTW, I am in Glendale. If you are free, we can meet and race 0-25 and see who gets there last. Thanks for the links Jay, really helped. I think I will order whatever parts I can find for the linkages. Many of the things that I think are bad are unavailable - which isnt the end of the world. The way I see it, if I can at least change the regulating rod mounts and tighten everything up, it should stop the rod from jiggling about at speed or at least make movement difficult. If not, I will leave good enough alone. Since installing Greazzers OFV spring and cleaning my fuel system, the car feels great. Its nothing like a 2015 Mercedes or a W210 with an OM606 turbo (both of which I drove recently) but nice! BTW, my mounts are Lemfoerder. I ordered Phoenix from PP but they sent me Lemfoerder. I assume either one is OEM. Thank you all for your help and suggestions. Sorry I didnt get a chance to take a video of the loose regulating rod. I will try to remember tomorrow. |
#24
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I checked my rod today, it only moved left to right about a mm or two....Looking at the gunk it appears there is nothing bad on mine....
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#25
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#26
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This video demonstrates the principle of how it work (obviously 3.5oz worth of airsoft bbs in the tires isn't exactly the same but you get the picture). From what I've read it doesn't work well on low profile tires. I've done it on 195/65R15 and 195/60R15 tires with good results. https://youtu.be/ullnFQD4F1I
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#27
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X2 for Brentwood. Who knew?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk |
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