Finally got a nice floor jack so I can do my own snow changeovers.

Both my W210 and W211 have newer/shorter lug bolts (thankfully). I have two torque wrenches: an inexpensive click type (Great Neck) and a Craftsman beam type.

Did the W210 this morning. Tightened according to correct pattern first to 70 ft. lbs. then to 80 using the click wrench. Then I went around and checked with the beam wrench. Some bolts, as I hit 80, seemed to tighten a bit more.

I'm not a shop with periodically calibrated high quality torque wrenches...just a guy in a driveway. I'm more concerned about safety than over-torquing a bolt. Yet I am well aware of the headache and expense of overtorquing a bolt to the point where the head breaks off.

So the W210 spec is 80 and the W211 is 96. If I wanted, for the sake of safety to exceed the values by a little bit, what would anyone recommend? Or should I simply trust my wrenches and get it as exact as I can?

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14 E250 Bluetec 4Matic "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 159k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 179k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver on Tan, 145k mi, wastegate conversion, ALDA delete

19 Honda CR-V EX 77k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife

I'd use the factory recommended torque. The wrenches are probably close enough.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

X2 what Tom said....
the real problems come with people using pneumatic tools.... if you are using your arms and a normal length click or bar to tighten it... very unlikely of any problems...
I am just glad you are following the book as far as you are....
The main thing is when starting out take all the bolts in by finger while jiggling the wheel... once all are tightened that way... and the wheel clearly against the hub in a level fashion... then go to what you are doing....

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

The way you did the job was really good.

You allowed the wheel to "find its place" as you fitted it and then checked with the torque wrenches you have.

I agree with above: As you compared the values between two wrenches the chances are good that your torque wrenches are close enough.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Thanks guys. Basically what I did is gently snugged them with wheel off the ground with a regular wrench according the star pattern. Then, once the wheel was on the ground, did 70 then 80. But the jiggling advice makes sense.

__________________
14 E250 Bluetec 4Matic "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 159k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 179k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver on Tan, 145k mi, wastegate conversion, ALDA delete

19 Honda CR-V EX 77k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife