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#1
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Quote:
Eating turbos is a unique problem. Reseal the engine, smoke and hiccups probably related, and sounds like you need to look at the tensioners for your Vbelts if they are constantly loosening
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This post brought to you by Carl's Jr. |
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#2
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Turbo's are really simple and most people on here have no problems with them... IF your engine and turbos do not seem to be compatible I would sure look at the oil flow available to the turbo from the engine....
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
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#3
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Smoke on startup also can be from leaky injectors.
The 616 617 motors are as close to bulletproof mechanically as any engine ever made. Once they are gotten right they will run with minimum maintenance for decades. I love them. Sounds like yours is knackered, probably due to not being taken care of properly. Maybe its been run on WVO which is particularly destructive, or just run on dirty or low oil.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. [SIGPIC]..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
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#4
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My OM616 is one of the trouble free spots on my 240D.
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#5
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My 617 has caused me more headaches than smiles.
Given the praise received on this board, I have clearly had an exceptional experience, but I very seriously doubt I will ever own another. Could have bought a SBC and rebuilt it three times for the cost and hassle I've had with my 617.
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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap |
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#6
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Quote:
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. [SIGPIC]..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
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#7
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To me the 61X series engines remain the only ones in my experience that can sit forever in horrid conditions and still fire up with some basic tinkering and elbow grease.
I have had many 61X engines start in fields with a battery, some fresh diesel, and a little tinkering
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This post brought to you by Carl's Jr. |
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#8
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Neglected?
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(when I bought R2, and today)
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Gone to the dark side - Jeff Last edited by babymog; 03-04-2016 at 11:55 AM. |
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#9
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So there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes?
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84 300SD 85 380SE 83 528e 95 318ic |
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#10
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Unless you want it for parts
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#11
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Find a mobile mechanic
If you're having a lot of problems with it, and you've been doing the repairs yourself, maybe get a mechanic who can find the root causes and knock 'em out once and for all. It's a drag both financially and mentally and with respect to time to have a car that constantly has issues. If you're not a mechanic who can knock out the root of the problems, might be cheaper to spend the money on one, take the car to him, tell him to fix everything that's wrong with it and be done. Then you can drive the car with confidence and enjoy it like you're supposed to. Get your fluids all changed, seals changed where need be, etc.
I'm surprised by how many people don't do the little things like changing fluids. Rear axle fluid, transmission fluid, brake fluid, power steering fluid (I use Prestone Stop Leak, just suck out all your old fluid and put that in), washer wiper rubber seal will eventually dry rot and leak (it's like a $3 seal), change your fuses from those old pitted aluminum ones to the new copper ones to clear up any electrical problems. The rubber seals and hoses are the biggest thing to me. I've had some leak and or weep over the years. Rubber fuel hoses, etc. These are cheap things to fix and easy DIY projects. I saw one guy's engine on his 1984 300d and I was appalled. It was a mess! Fuel and oil all over it. I asked him...if your car had a problem, how would you be able to see it??? Clean your engine!! It costs $4 to get Engine Brite. If I have a leak, I can spot it EARLY before it becomes a big problem. I'd rather replace a 50 cent O-ring than have a bigger problem later! If you don't want to spend the money on a mechanic, maybe find an EXPERIENCED mobile mechanic. I've saved a lot of money with mine. Though he's a general mechanic who works on different types of cars, he can figure out a lot of things on mine and is usually successful on fixing things. When he doesn't know, he tells me. Good luck. |
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#12
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I think some of the complaints in this thread need to be viewed in the context that the newest OM617 is now 31 years old... way beyond any typical design life for any passenger-car engine.
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"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod ![]() 2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die." |
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#13
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What shape will the majority of Eco-Boost engines in use today be in, in 2047?
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#14
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These cars are not for everyone. For example if an individual told me he had to use only paid for service. I might discourage them from the acquisition.
How we deal with problems of all sorts is partially by mental attitude. Also if a car is needed in everyday constant service. The prime car perhaps should not be really old if not in prime mechanical condition. As for your belt problem. Inspect and eliminate any rust in your pulleys. V belts were replaced with serpentine because of the need for adjustment. It is automatic with serpentine. At the same time a vee belt system well maintained gives decent intervals between the need for attention. I have had them eat belts and require far too many adjustments when the pulleys are not really good. |
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#15
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A little backstory on the car.
It's a 1981 with approx 250k miles, maybe less. I had to swap to a mechanical speedohead from the original electronic speedometer when I did the transmission swap. The car hasn't ever been ran on veg. I'm the third owner, the second owner was meticulous to the point of a full fuel log in the door pocket with odometer read out and mpg at each fillup. I've owned the car over 3 years and 50k miles, and I've done valve adjustments, engine mounts, engine shocks, oem valve cover gasket, egr delete exhaust manifold, grezzar monark 265 injectors, new injector hardlines, constant fuel filters, alda delete, manifold gaskets, adjusted the rack damper, etc. I've tried to do everything right on this car, and I use all OE and lemforeder parts. The whole turbo situation is a interesting one to say the least. My original Garrett ground it's compressor wheel clean off (I chalk that up to my dad leaving a nut in the intake). I then replaced that with a used K26 off of eBay, the k26 lasted for about a year before it started smoking then came audible noise. So with the k26 in the dumpster I put out a mayday call to everyone local to me for a stock turbo, as I was trying to make a car rally event that I've been attending for 6 years. User justpassinthru told me over the phone that he had a stock Garrett he'd sell me, he came over but it turned out he forget he in fact had a holset hx30w that he bought off of winmutt. In a bit of a pickle I said I'd take it (regret). The holset was a smelly leaky mess, even with a fresh chra. I just put a factory low mileage Garrett on with my egr less manifold, and it is so nice to have a stock turbo again. The trans swap has been smooth sailing for over a year now, I had a issue with two clutch slaves dying prematurely, but I finally wised up and ordered a OE slave cylinder. The trans swap is buttery smooth to drive. The only corner I cut on that was not hooking up the reverse lights, but I'm running euro 3 piece bumpers so I don't even have reverse lights. I'm going to replace all of the rubber fuel line in a bid to cure the hiccuping, but if that doesn't solve it I'll start looking around for a used injection pump. The car was never ran on wvo, but it was ran on pump bio. I'm also contemplating doing a mild refresh of the engine. Probably re-ring it, valve stem seals, valve job, head remachine, timing chain, tensioners. My dad is currently putting his om616 back together after all of the above due to a vacuum pump failure. So he already has the vital tools like for the head bolts. -Mike
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1981 300TD 4 speed manual Euro bumpers, zender valance and skirts, H&R springs, billy HD's, leveled sls, real AMG Pentas 16x8 et11, vdo boost/egt gauges intergrated into ash tray, eurolights, led 3rd brake light |
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