Guys, a while ago, I developed cracks on my trailling arm, which I 'fixed' by having bars of steel welded over the cracks. Not the safest solution. Given the price of a 'new' trailing arm, I'm opting to go with a used one from the junkyard.

My car is a 1982 w123 300d. The junkyard charges $20 for a trailing arm including core charge (yes, very cheap!), and the guy at the junkyard who removes parts for you charges $30 to remove it for me. Because I'm not about to remove it myself.

First question: are 560sel (w126) trailing arms, even up to 1991 model year, an exact replacement for w123 trailing arm? I believe the 1991 560sel is the newest model year of compatible trailing arm. I try to go with the newest model year replacement part when going the used route for something that can give out due to high mileage and rust. I'm also hoping that maybe Mercedes refined the steel/casting processes along the way such that the newer ones hold up better.

I plan to have the trailing arm from the junkyard sand blasted for $20, then spray paint it with a rust-resistant paint that I haven't determined the brand of yet (any suggestions would be great) for, say $5-$10.

I then plan to then purchase a new wheel bearing from pelicanparts for between $65 and $133

Mercedes-Benz 230/240/280/300 (1977-1985) W123 - Axles, Bearings & Differential - Page 4

Does it matter if I go with Mercedes bearing or not? I'm thinking 'a bearing is a bearing', but I could be wrong. (either way they all have balls of steel, right?)

I will also install new control arm bushings. I have been looking high and low for Lemfoerder trailing arm bushings because I've read this brand is the only one to go with for suspension rubber components. But can find none for a reasonable price. Without getting into a debate about part quality, can anyone confirm whether there are any non-Lemforder rear trailing arm bushings that are any good, and if so what brand?

I then plan to take the bearing and the bushings along with the used trailing arm to a machine shop to have them all installed and pressed into place

-What would be a reasonable price to pay a reputable machine shop to install the bushings, and bearing on one trailing arm?

-Once the good-to-go trailing arm is ready, what would be a reasonable labor charge for a mechanic to R&R the bad trailing arm with my good used one? This would include hooking up the e-brake, removing the spring/shock, replacing the shock and spring perch, and reinstalling everything. I'm fearing this is a 5-7 hour job and labor is going to kill me. Which is part of the reason I'm saving money using the junkyard route for the trailing arm.

-Should I simultaneously have the e-brake components replaced as well as the e-brake cable and rear rotor, or is that overkill? what would that add to the labor assuming I buy all those parts?

-How about a new shock and spring pad at the same time, since the trailing arm is going to be off anyway? normally I wouldn't replace only one shock and spring pad but would do the pair simultaneously. But I don't want to do the right side until I decide to do the same thing to the right side trailing arm, to save some money.

I realize these are a lot of questions. I'm trying to think ahead to determine what I should budget overall for this project. I'm hoping to keep it under $600 but it's looking like it's closer to $800 with labor and new parts.

I dunno. What do you guys think of my 'little plan'?

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It is a easy DIY job. Pay to have it done at $100 + per hr, and will be costly.

Here is a chart of what fits.

Replacement Trailing Arm

W114/115, W116, W123, W126 up to 1985 for sure fits.
Don`t remember what the 86 - 91 were like. They did use Aluminum arm under the 560 SEC and SEL.
Those will not fit on a W123. They will work on a W126 81 - 85.

Here is a write up I did when I changed mine.
IT FELL OFF! :)

One from Stretch
Rear subframe removal and bushing replacement

I can`t tell how long it took me, I wasn`t in a hurry, maybe 2 weeks.
It really is not that hard to do.

Here is one on replacing the rear wheel bearings

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W123RearWheelBearings


Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Charlie, I looked at your links that you provided, and honestly, I don't consider it a DIY job for me. It's something I'd probably need to ask a mechanic to accomplish for me. I mean, I have the space and tools for it, but I believe that, if I don't finish the project I start due to some incorrectly performed step, I will be stuck with an un-towable car in my driveway. Also I'd like to get my car on the road asap. Props to you for getting that job done though!

That being said, I don't believe 86-91 w126 models used aluminum on any part of their lower control arm. I would think an LCA would be an all-steel part, whether it was cast, two pieces stamped together, or solid steel.

It would be great to know if someone on here knows if 86-91 w126 trailing arms were compatible. This would greatly increase the pool of available parts, and w123s are becoming more and more rare these days, whereas w126's are readily available all over the place.

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The trailing arm on my 123 is from a 76 450sel, I think - original owner replaced it. I hope it's an exact match, seems to work!

I had a cracked lower read control arm on my W123 that I exchanged with another used one over 5 years ago.

I salvaged the rear hub and kept the Bearings for reference.

The larger bearing has SKF Germany
Large Bearing K-LM503349A on the bearing it was hard tor read
Large Bearing Race SKF K-LM 503310

The smaller one has FAG Germany on it.
Smaller Wheel Bearing Numbers
Race- KLM300811Bearing KLM300847 On the bearing that is hard to read

Note that SKF and FAG both have several grades of bearings and have bearings made in China.

I like to buy bearings on eBay where you can see on the Picture or ask the Seller what Country the bearings are made in. Also they are usally 1/2 the cost.

Sometimes where the bearing is made is in the text.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Labor charges will vary due to the local economy and usage of road salt. In a sunny rust free climate, time to change could be 1/2 of what it takes in a salted area.