Guys, a while ago, I developed cracks on my trailling arm, which I 'fixed' by having bars of steel welded over the cracks. Not the safest solution. Given the price of a 'new' trailing arm, I'm opting to go with a used one from the junkyard.

My car is a 1982 w123 300d. The junkyard charges $20 for a trailing arm including core charge (yes, very cheap!), and the guy at the junkyard who removes parts for you charges $30 to remove it for me. Because I'm not about to remove it myself.

First question: are 560sel (w126) trailing arms, even up to 1991 model year, an exact replacement for w123 trailing arm? I believe the 1991 560sel is the newest model year of compatible trailing arm. I try to go with the newest model year replacement part when going the used route for something that can give out due to high mileage and rust. I'm also hoping that maybe Mercedes refined the steel/casting processes along the way such that the newer ones hold up better.

I plan to have the trailing arm from the junkyard sand blasted for $20, then spray paint it with a rust-resistant paint that I haven't determined the brand of yet (any suggestions would be great) for, say $5-$10.

I then plan to then purchase a new wheel bearing from pelicanparts for between $65 and $133

Mercedes-Benz 230/240/280/300 (1977-1985) W123 - Axles, Bearings & Differential - Page 4

Does it matter if I go with Mercedes bearing or not? I'm thinking 'a bearing is a bearing', but I could be wrong. (either way they all have balls of steel, right?)

I will also install new control arm bushings. I have been looking high and low for Lemfoerder trailing arm bushings because I've read this brand is the only one to go with for suspension rubber components. But can find none for a reasonable price. Without getting into a debate about part quality, can anyone confirm whether there are any non-Lemforder rear trailing arm bushings that are any good, and if so what brand?

I then plan to take the bearing and the bushings along with the used trailing arm to a machine shop to have them all installed and pressed into place

-What would be a reasonable price to pay a reputable machine shop to install the bushings, and bearing on one trailing arm?

-Once the good-to-go trailing arm is ready, what would be a reasonable labor charge for a mechanic to R&R the bad trailing arm with my good used one? This would include hooking up the e-brake, removing the spring/shock, replacing the shock and spring perch, and reinstalling everything. I'm fearing this is a 5-7 hour job and labor is going to kill me. Which is part of the reason I'm saving money using the junkyard route for the trailing arm.

-Should I simultaneously have the e-brake components replaced as well as the e-brake cable and rear rotor, or is that overkill? what would that add to the labor assuming I buy all those parts?

-How about a new shock and spring pad at the same time, since the trailing arm is going to be off anyway? normally I wouldn't replace only one shock and spring pad but would do the pair simultaneously. But I don't want to do the right side until I decide to do the same thing to the right side trailing arm, to save some money.

I realize these are a lot of questions. I'm trying to think ahead to determine what I should budget overall for this project. I'm hoping to keep it under $600 but it's looking like it's closer to $800 with labor and new parts.

I dunno. What do you guys think of my 'little plan'?

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