Om617 swap help! - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Dudewith4x4 · #1 03-26-2017, 08:49 PM

Hey guys I'm a first time poster but I've used this helpful forum a lot of times and it's helped me out and I've ran into a problem and no one I work with or know has any knowledge on these motors. A little back story is I bought a 93 Jeep Cherokee with a blown motor but a good body and a lift. Well Instead of replacing the 4.0 I thought it would be a good idea to put a om617 motor in it. So I found a guy on Craigslist that had a 82 Mercedes 300 that had a blown motor but good turbo and other parts and another motor that ran with a adapter to bolt up to my jeep transmission. I was told that he adjusted the valves and put new gaskets in the motor but had never started it. I now have the motor installed in the jeep and everything hooked up and I can't get fuel from the injector pump to the injectors. I have replaced the primer pump and can pump it enough to get a solid stream back to the return line to the secondary filter. I cracked the injector lines and still got nothing. So I took all the injector lines off and have no fuel coming from anything of the delivery valves. When I took the hard lines off I also discovered the pump was somewhat loose. I tightened it and still nothing coming out. I'm all out of ideas at this point and can't seem to find a thing on Google to help me. One thing someone told me is that it is turning over to slow but I replaced the battery and shimmed the starter and it turns over faster and still can't get it to give any fuel.. Please help I'm about to try and sell the dam thing. Thanks

Diseasel300 · #2 03-26-2017, 09:01 PM

Are you sure the IP is actually being rotated? If the fuel rack is full and the IP is rotating and the rack lever is out of the "STOP" position, you should be squirting fuel out of the delivery valves.

Start with the basics.

Dudewith4x4 · #3 03-26-2017, 09:12 PM

How would I go about seeing if the ip is turning? I always have had the rack fully opened when trying to get fuel. I have even took the vacuum kill switch off to make sure it is working properly.

Diseasel300 · #4 03-26-2017, 09:15 PM

An easy way would be to disconnect the output line from the lift pump on the side of the IP and see if it is pumping while you crank the engine. If it is, you know that the IP is being driven. If it isn't, you can take the lift pump off the side and peek inside while you crank the engine. You should be able to see the cam rotating.

Dudewith4x4 · #5 03-26-2017, 09:28 PM

Well I just took the line off the lift pump going to the secondary filter and it is pushing no fuel. I guess pulling the lift pump is the next step?

Dudewith4x4 · #6 03-26-2017, 09:43 PM

I pulled the lift pump and as you guessed the cam inside is not turn at all... For some reason I feel like I have a lot more work in store if I want it to run... I'm so lost lol

Dudewith4x4 · #7 03-26-2017, 11:46 PM

I just got my injector pump off and everything looks fine? No broken splines or anything?

Diseasel300 · #8 03-27-2017, 01:17 AM

You likely have a failed timing device (sprocket that drives the IP).

Diseasel300 · #9 03-27-2017, 01:24 AM

Or something even more nefarious - did you look in the valve cover when you had the IP installed to make sure the camshaft was rotating? How is your timing chain? Time to do some investigation.

Dudewith4x4 · #10 03-27-2017, 02:14 AM

After I took the injection pump off I cranked the motor and watched the shaft in this picture and it was moving freely. Looking at this shaft coming out of the motor and the one on the injector pump there is no way for the two splined shafts to come into contact with each other I almost think I'm missing a peice.
Here is the inside of the motor where the pump slides in with splines on the outside where they should be on the inside turn the pump?

Here is the splined shaft coming out of the injector pump.

Here is a picture of another injection pump I have and I have one more installed in my parts car right now so surely I can make something work here somehow. The pumps have the same number on them but have different aldas and one has a adjustment bolt on the back side of the pump? Are they the same injection pump? Also while I have the pump out could I take the rack limited out?

And for the hell of it here is my mess of a jeep at the moment

Maxbumpo · #11 03-27-2017, 04:52 AM

I think you've found the problem - there is no mechanical connection between the engine and the injection pump. I'd say that if you have a parts car, pull that injection pump to see what is missing from the engine in the Jeep, and swap that part over. I'm NOT an expert on the OM617, so I hope I'm not leading you astray here, but I suspect that either the timing device is missing or something else is missing from the Jeep.

A note on the primer pump: It only primes the injection pump, it does NOT push fuel out to the injectors. The only way to get fuel out to the injectors is by cranking the engine over. Once you get the injection pump rotating on your Jeep, leave all the steel injection lines slightly loose at the top of the injectors, crank with the starter, and only tighten up the lines once you get fuel leaking out.

Dan Stokes · #12 03-27-2017, 10:09 AM

Yes, there is a drive collar between the two shafts. I changed my pump last year and so I know for sure that you need that part! It just pushes onto the engine end then your pump slides into it.

The challenge in this is getting the pump timing set to the engine timing - remember that the pump timing is just like distributor timing. If it isn't right the engine she's no run.

1) Pull the cam cover
2) Align the vibration dampner to TCD and make sure that both #1 valves are loose. If not, rotate the engine 360* and align the marks again. This gets the engine at TDC/#1.
3) Set your pump to 23-24* - there is a thread on here to tell you how. IIPC, there's a "window" in the pump to let you see that. (My pump came locked at 24* so I didn't have to do that part).
4) NOW slide your pump onto the drive collar as noted. DO NOT allow the pump to rotate as you do this.
5) Tighten everything up, reinstall the cam cover, and prime the fuel system - again, there are threads to help you do this.
6) Fire that mother up!

That missing drive collar is a BIG DEAL!

Dan

ROLLGUY · #13 03-27-2017, 10:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dan Stokes

Yes, there is a drive collar between the two shafts. I changed my pump last year and so I know for sure that you need that part! It just pushes onto the engine end then your pump slides into it.

The challenge in this is getting the pump timing set to the engine timing - remember that the pump timing is just like distributor timing. If it isn't right the engine she's no run.

1) Pull the cam cover
2) Align the vibration dampner to TCD and make sure that both #1 valves are loose. If not, rotate the engine 360* and align the marks again. This gets the engine at TDC/#1.
3) Set your pump to 23-24* - there is a thread on here to tell you how. IIPC, there's a "window" in the pump to let you see that. (My pump came locked at 24* so I didn't have to do that part).
4) NOW slide your pump onto the drive collar as noted. DO NOT allow the pump to rotate as you do this.
5) Tighten everything up, reinstall the cam cover, and prime the fuel system - again, there are threads to help you do this.
6) Fire that mother up!

That missing drive collar is a BIG DEAL!

Dan

Actually, the crank timing pointer needs to point at 24-26 degrees Before Top Dead Center, and the splined shaft on the pump with the wide spline lined up with the line on the pump body (about 10 o'clock). I like timing them as close to 26 degrees as possible. Be sure to slide the pump in so the mark on the side lines up with the mark on the block (assuming that the pump is original to the block). That way, your injector lines will not have to be bent to fit. Once the pump is in, you need to drip time it before putting everything back together.

ROLLGUY · #14 03-27-2017, 10:48 AM

Also, the two injection pumps in your photo are: Left= Non turbo 617, Right=Turbo 617.

Dudewith4x4 · #15 03-27-2017, 12:14 PM

Damn guys I really appreciate all the comments and help! Gonna pull the injector pump from my parts car tonight and hopefully it has a sleeve. My next question is should I use my pump from my parts car since it ran fine until he blew the motor or should I use the orginal one? Also should I remove the rack limiter now or should I wait? Also seeing people timing them at 27 degrees for a little more power? Anyone have any advice on these subjects?