|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
Metallic Rattling OM606
Advice needed.. I'm getting a metallic rattling from my om606, 1999 with 193k miles.. I replaced the water pump because I replaced the clutch and the fan wasn't spinning as fast it could and right after that I started getting a metallic rattling that sounded like a bad water pump bearing.
Right after the new water pump, the rattling persisted in the same area. So it leads me to believe it's the chain tensioner. This car has been well maintained all its life with oil changes and all. Current oil level is fine. I'm going to order the tensioner from PelicanParts and see if this fixes the rattle and not drive the car in the mean time... If my chain tensioner is worn out and rattling, does that mean the chain is worn out most likely as well? I know the only way to check that is by removing the valve cover and aligning the cam and rotating the motor. But i'm interested in the general experiences with these tensioners. But I don't think so for the chain considering it has always had oil changes. Could the oil pump chain be shot??? That belt tensioner shock is new as well that likes to rattle on these motors as of 3k miles ago.
__________________
Only diesels in this driveway. 2005 E320 CDI 243k Black/Black 2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k 2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
Is the rattling louder if you idle with the oil filler cap off? I'm not familiar with the vane type vacuum pump but could it be the source of noise? Did you get a quality belt damper or perhaps something like Uro brand? You might recheck the belt tensioner arm bearing and idler pulley bearing. The tensioner arm should pivot smoothly without clicking (detents) and without wobbling whatsoever.
Sixto 83 300SD 98 E320 wagon |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
Is it possible that the tensioner pulley is bad? It's just right there beside the water pump. Sometimes its hard to tell exactly where the noise comes from.
__________________
Current stable: 1995 E320 149K (Nancy) 1983 500SL 120K (SLoL) Black Sheep: 1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) Gone but not forgotten: 1986 300SDL (RIP) 1991 350SD 1991 560SEL 1990 560SEL 1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!) |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Yes, indeed it is hard to tell. How can I check that?
__________________
Only diesels in this driveway. 2005 E320 CDI 243k Black/Black 2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k 2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
Take the accessory drive belt off and give it a wiggle, then give it a good spin by hand. If it seems loose/wobbly, isn't smooth when spun, or if it seems to spin excessively easy (freewheels) it's probably due for replacement.
__________________
Current stable: 1995 E320 149K (Nancy) 1983 500SL 120K (SLoL) Black Sheep: 1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) Gone but not forgotten: 1986 300SDL (RIP) 1991 350SD 1991 560SEL 1990 560SEL 1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!) |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Start with everything external up frt of the motor first(the easiest items to fix would be bolt on parts) .The vac pumps get alot of wear and are the last to be replaced if stilll in working order.If it is working (happened to me) something still could be in its last gasp .The case I had was the vac pump bearing failed AND the tappet was engaging metal to meatl on the roller , it still made vac .This case was small bearings made its way to the oil pan .Tap noise went up and down with rpms.Fixing it too late would mean the tappet would break sending it into the sproket ending the motor most likely ,that is if the design is similiar to the 617 motor.
|
#7
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
Only diesels in this driveway. 2005 E320 CDI 243k Black/Black 2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k 2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
An easy test for the noise coming from an accessory would be to loosen the tension on the belt and start the engine. The belt will be fine not tight around the pulleys, and none of the accessories will be turning. If the noise is still there, you will know for sure it is not coming from an accessory.
__________________
All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
Remove the belt, fan and shroud and watch the crank pulley damper. It might be working loose or coming apart. On second thought, maybe you don't want to look directly at it with the engine running
Sixto 83 300SD 98 E320 wagon |
#10
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
Only diesels in this driveway. 2005 E320 CDI 243k Black/Black 2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k 2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k |
#11
|
||||
|
||||
It may be best to just remove the belt as sixto said.
__________________
All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
#12
|
||||
|
||||
Okay, so I was able to determine it was the alternator. Chain tensioner is okay. Put a stethoscope on it. I guess the alternator is on its way out.
__________________
Only diesels in this driveway. 2005 E320 CDI 243k Black/Black 2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k 2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k |
Bookmarks |
|
|