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Old 04-17-2017, 10:02 AM
Stretch's Avatar
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There's a bit of a gap in time between the two transmissions you mention - there might be more difference than perhaps the numerical differences suggest.

Throughout the lifespan of the 722.3 they added more plastic junk making the last 722.3 transmissions about as good as the 722.4s (!) - Meaning they started out with a good product and then cheapened it out...

...to make sure you need real EPC access. I would expect that most of the internal pieces are going to be the same (however - that's me just guessing and hoping Mercedes didn't add in even more plastic ****) - the one thing that you ought to hone in on like a Magpie chasing tinsel is the valve body part numbers. These will most certainly be the bits in a vacuum controlled system that "tunes" the standard stuff to a specific final drive ratio.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



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Old 04-17-2017, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
There's a bit of a gap in time between the two transmissions you mention - there might be more difference than perhaps the numerical differences suggest.

Throughout the lifespan of the 722.3 they added more plastic junk making the last 722.3 transmissions about as good as the 722.4s (!) - Meaning they started out with a good product and then cheapened it out...

...to make sure you need real EPC access. I would expect that most of the internal pieces are going to be the same (however - that's me just guessing and hoping Mercedes didn't add in even more plastic ****) - the one thing that you ought to hone in on like a Magpie chasing tinsel is the valve body part numbers. These will most certainly be the bits in a vacuum controlled system that "tunes" the standard stuff to a specific final drive ratio.
Cheers Stretch, v helpful.

I have some minor body work penciled in for later this year, would it be a better option to take it off the road, pull the box for reconditioning?

Another possibility is to get a box from these folks, eBay item number:322484402165 who are not far from me, either fitted or supply only.

The one listed is for 722.6, the 4 might be a bit cheaper with less cogs?

My only concern with the EPC thing is finding the correct parts. Ended up sending a thread link for another model when ordering B1,K1 and K2's piston bits, what was removed didn't match up to EPC for my vehicle with bagged/boxed labeled parts being not containing as listed.

Are there any kits available such as the ones offered by Cobra in the US, perhaps bring the whole box up to latest (for this model) spec?
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  #3  
Old 04-18-2017, 09:58 AM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
Quote:
Originally Posted by spock505 View Post
Cheers Stretch, v helpful.

I have some minor body work penciled in for later this year, would it be a better option to take it off the road, pull the box for reconditioning?

Another possibility is to get a box from these folks, eBay item number:322484402165 who are not far from me, either fitted or supply only.

The one listed is for 722.6, the 4 might be a bit cheaper with less cogs?

My only concern with the EPC thing is finding the correct parts. Ended up sending a thread link for another model when ordering B1,K1 and K2's piston bits, what was removed didn't match up to EPC for my vehicle with bagged/boxed labeled parts being not containing as listed.

Are there any kits available such as the ones offered by Cobra in the US, perhaps bring the whole box up to latest (for this model) spec?
Unfortunately I see little connection between price and cogs as you put it. Pricing these days seems to be "how much can we extract before we are not able to sell stuff any more"...

...the EPC is meant to be the 100% failsafe solution to your problem - but you have to make sure you've got the correct serial number in the machine first.

As for "upgrading" - hmm - well - dunno for sure. On the whole I'd be "downgrading" the older stuff seems to be better before they "cheaped it out"!

###

As for the first question - my experience has been that 8 out of 10 cats say "it is better the devil you know".

On the whole fixing something that was meant for something else gives an exponential rise in ball ache.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
Reply With Quote
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