I just picked up a 82 300d from Austin and i got it for $275. It supposedly has a strong engine, but the battery was dead and it sat for 2 years.


I need to know what i should do before trying to start her up in regards to lubricating the pistons? i don't want to score anything.


I have replaced both fuel filters, air filter, will do a valve adjustment, try to figure out the vacuum lines, will lubricate the linkage joints, and either test or just replace the glow plugs.

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Grey '91 350SDL 214k Dad's car
Beige '81 240D 4 Speed 254k SOLD
Blue '82 300D 225k SOLD
White '95 E300D 46k SOLD
Blue '87 190D 2.5 Turbo 315k SOLD
Brown '80 240D 4 Speed 716k SOLD
Beige '80 300D N/A 119k SOLD
Blue '85 300D Model 186k T-Boned

Is it difficult to turn by hand? Was it stored indoors or in the open?

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon

Should i try to turn it over on the power steering pulley? Is that what you meant with turn over by hand. it was sitting in the driveway, outdoors.

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Grey '91 350SDL 214k Dad's car
Beige '81 240D 4 Speed 254k SOLD
Blue '82 300D 225k SOLD
White '95 E300D 46k SOLD
Blue '87 190D 2.5 Turbo 315k SOLD
Brown '80 240D 4 Speed 716k SOLD
Beige '80 300D N/A 119k SOLD
Blue '85 300D Model 186k T-Boned

Whether the PS pulley or the crank pulley, I mean not using the starter.

Some might suggest squirting a light oil like Marvel Mystery Oil in the glow plug holes, letting it sit many hours then turning the engine with the glow plugs out. I don't know how to tell when the risk of hydrolocking is gone.

I'm more concerned about dry crank and rod bearings if there's no practical way to prelube those.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon

This is what I would do, proceed at your own risk. Try to get one-half of a teaspoon at most of light oil or diesel fuel into each cylinder through the glow plug holes and leave the glow plugs out.

Manual or auto transmission? If manual you can rotate the engine by putting it in gear and gently rocking the car. Be careful by having someone in the car as it may start doing that if the glow plugs are in, so leave them out. If auto put a ratchet or breaker bar with a 27mm? IIRC socket on the crank and try gently turning the engine in its normal direction of rotation. If it is stuck at all STOP! This is where patience matters.

Mechanically wire the injection pump to full stop and if the engine rotates freely then still with the glow plugs out, use the starter to crank the engine. The teaspoon of oil should spew out of the glow plug holes so cover them with a rag. Do not try to start the engine until cranking it with the glow plugs out to expel the oil.

Some will say put a battery in it and see what happens and I have done that; but, if the rings are stuck and that frees them you may damage the rings, pistons and/or cylinder walls.

Good luck and keep us posted!

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

Thanks for the advice.

I will take out the glow plugs and use a syringe and some tubing to shoot a little oil in there. then i will keep the injection pump at full stop, to prevent starting and let the oil blow out.

how long should i let the oil sit in the car with the glow plugs out? I am about to go on vacation until July 25th, so i could just let it sit that long with the oil in there. that might really help it to work its way down.

__________________

Grey '91 350SDL 214k Dad's car
Beige '81 240D 4 Speed 254k SOLD
Blue '82 300D 225k SOLD
White '95 E300D 46k SOLD
Blue '87 190D 2.5 Turbo 315k SOLD
Brown '80 240D 4 Speed 716k SOLD
Beige '80 300D N/A 119k SOLD
Blue '85 300D Model 186k T-Boned

The FACTORY SHOP MANUAL specifically warns against using the PS pulley bolt to turn the engine... that is a tapered shaft..and you will be making an interference fit..when you do not want to....

Use the Crank nut at the bottom of the engine...

on the oil into the cylinders.. just make sure you have put in enough so that it can run off the top of the piston ....and I would leave it overnight myself...
Those other things.. the filters and such are very good procedures.
I do not see mention of new diesel fuel ?
I would fill up the fuel filter with that injector cleaning fluid..can't think of the name.. but a common procedure....
You know to leave the lines cracked at the injector plugs after you start cranking to be sure you have no air pockets in the lines....then as you are sure they are clean and flowing tighten them while the engine is being cranked.... ( but not started ) until you are ready.... and have the air filter off with something to block the air flow in case you have a run away engine situation...

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

If you can leave it sit until you come back that would be great, I'd put a tablespoon or two in for that long of a soak because it will leak past the rings anyway. Agreed that it must be enough oil to cover the tops of the pistons.

That is another issue what is put in the cylinders will get in the oil so think about a short interval for the first oil change.

Good luck!!! Please keep us posted!!!

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

The Marvel Mystery Oil which Sixto mentioned has a good reputation ...and would not necessitate a shorter oil change interval.... although I am all for changing oil and filter often on a new to you car...
Even at two oz per cylinder.. you are mixing it with 7 quarts of oil......

__________________
1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

The crank bolt is 27mm.

Here is one method to run a car on a small temporary tank of new fuel.

Diesel Purge Mercedes diesel maintenance tips

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

I have diesel purge in the garage and was planning on using it, instead of drawing fuel from the tank. if the engine runs good, then i will remove the tank and clean it. (done it with 3 other W123's, and is not hard).

I used a syringe and some rubber hoses to squirt 15ml (about 1 Tablespoon) of oil in each glow plug hole. I will let that sit for 3 weeks. After the 3 weeks, do I need to keep the glow plug holes open to blow any remaining out, or will enough have drained? I don't want to hydro lock the engine.

__________________

Grey '91 350SDL 214k Dad's car
Beige '81 240D 4 Speed 254k SOLD
Blue '82 300D 225k SOLD
White '95 E300D 46k SOLD
Blue '87 190D 2.5 Turbo 315k SOLD
Brown '80 240D 4 Speed 716k SOLD
Beige '80 300D N/A 119k SOLD
Blue '85 300D Model 186k T-Boned

Here is what I would do...


Put a new fully charged battery in it...

Power the glow plug relay and see if it pulls strong amps.

Look in the clear fuel filter, and if it is full, go on to the next step, if empty, you want to first check if the tank is full... if not, you should completely drain it. A partial fuel tank will have water in there that needs to be drained. If it's full, you are good.

Drain the motor oil, and refill with new, but do not change the filter. You want it to be full on the first crank.

Remove all glow plugs, and squirt a VERY SMALL AMOUNT of marvel mystery oil... let it sit for an hour, then crank the motor over until the mmo is nit spraying out, then look for a mist of fuel...


While the glow plugs are out, use PLIERS and jumper cables and test each on the battery for an instant glow at the tip.

pull the valve cover...

Adjust the valves. Best to start up with freshly adjusted valves...


Put everything back together, and start the car.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

This is my game plan. Thanks for spelling it all out. Good info on the oil filter.

__________________

Grey '91 350SDL 214k Dad's car
Beige '81 240D 4 Speed 254k SOLD
Blue '82 300D 225k SOLD
White '95 E300D 46k SOLD
Blue '87 190D 2.5 Turbo 315k SOLD
Brown '80 240D 4 Speed 716k SOLD
Beige '80 300D N/A 119k SOLD
Blue '85 300D Model 186k T-Boned

Vstech has made an assumption on the oil filter philosophy which on a car which is old or has been sitting may not be correct...

and which could easily be made into the correct situation you want .. by careful proper changing of the oil filter...

Vstech is assuming the oil filter to be full ..... based on the assumption that the mechanisms which are designed to keep it full are working properly... I do not think that is a reasonable assumption after the car has SAT for a couple of years....

You want the orings to be properly working on the main middle shaft

AND you want that oil shaft to be CLEAN AND OPEN....

Most people who open up an oil filter after a long time find those orings are hard as glass... lots of discussion in the archives.....thus they will not preclude the oil draining back into the pan...

HOWEVER.... if Vstech had included a LONG non start cranking cycle ( or multiple ones to keep the heat and strain off the battery ) then we might conclude that the oil filter container would be filled before the actual starting of the engine...

Many an oil change has been conducted by people who do not even check to see if that tiny hole and the main shaft will allow the passage of oil as they are designed to do...

so since you have plenty of time.. why not do that before you start the engine ?

__________________
1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

That is a good point as well, and i have already ordered new O-rings for the oil filter housing. I forgot to mention that that is one of the easy but routine things i change when i get a new W123. I will crank it several times, with cool down time, to move the new oil around the engine.

__________________

Grey '91 350SDL 214k Dad's car
Beige '81 240D 4 Speed 254k SOLD
Blue '82 300D 225k SOLD
White '95 E300D 46k SOLD
Blue '87 190D 2.5 Turbo 315k SOLD
Brown '80 240D 4 Speed 716k SOLD
Beige '80 300D N/A 119k SOLD
Blue '85 300D Model 186k T-Boned