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  #1  
Old 10-13-2017, 07:41 AM
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Using compressed air to blow out carbon from glow plug holes

The FSM procedure for replacing the CDI glow plugs specifies using a pair of cylindrical brushes, 6mm and 10mm. So I got a set of brushes. What about also using compressed air to dislodge the carbon? Any downside to that?
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  #2  
Old 10-13-2017, 08:47 AM
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Why would you want to blow dislodged bits of carbon deeper into your engine?

Use a shop vac to remove the bits instead.
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Old 10-13-2017, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike D View Post
Why would you want to blow dislodged bits of carbon deeper into your engine?

Use a shop vac to remove the bits instead.
I don't have a suitable vacuum.

Won't dislodged carbon fall into the engine when using the brushes? Why would that matter...won't it just get blown out the exhaust?
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14 E250 Bluetec 4Matic "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 159k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 178k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver on Tan, 145k mi, wastegate conversion, ALDA delete

19 Honda CR-V EX 75k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife
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  #4  
Old 10-13-2017, 10:25 AM
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You can use compressed air to pull a vacuum, just blow air through a tee with both ends open. The tee side will pull a vacuum:
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Old 10-13-2017, 10:44 AM
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Bucket Head 5 gal. 1.75-Peak HP Wet Dry Vac-BH0100 - The Home Depot

For $20 plus tax, you can't go wrong.
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Old 10-13-2017, 10:51 AM
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Thanks for the tips/recommendations. But as to the fate of carbon that drops down into engine....it just gets blown out the exhaust, right?
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14 E250 Bluetec 4Matic "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 159k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 178k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver on Tan, 145k mi, wastegate conversion, ALDA delete

19 Honda CR-V EX 75k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife
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  #7  
Old 10-13-2017, 11:05 AM
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AFTER it gets dragged up and down the cylinder walls. Usually causes no problem when it's loose but using compressed air can force it into any gaps of the rings, valve seats, etc.

Your car, your money.
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Old 10-13-2017, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike D View Post
AFTER it gets dragged up and down the cylinder walls. Usually causes no problem when it's loose but using compressed air can force it into any gaps of the rings, valve seats, etc.

Your car, your money.
Thanks for the clarification....makes sense just to stick with the brushes like MB recommends.
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14 E250 Bluetec 4Matic "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 159k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 178k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver on Tan, 145k mi, wastegate conversion, ALDA delete

19 Honda CR-V EX 75k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife
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  #9  
Old 10-13-2017, 11:09 AM
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Put this on your Xmas/wish list.

https://www.shopvac.com/product/shop-vac-5-gallon-4-0-peak-hp-hardware-wet-dry-wall-mount-vac-catnum:3942300

Handy to have and it's one of those things you wonder how you did without. Keep an eye out for specials. I picked mine up for $39.95 at Ace Hardware during one of their spring special savings deals.
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  #10  
Old 10-17-2017, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simpler=Better View Post
You can use compressed air to pull a vacuum, just blow air through a tee with both ends open. The tee side will pull a vacuum:
This is another good method if you have compressed air. If you tie wrap a breathable cloth bag to the discharge port you can capture the carbon.
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  #11  
Old 10-17-2017, 06:15 PM
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why not just isolate the starter solenoid wiring and turn the engine over by hot wiring the starter (like you do on a compression test on these engines)

Any carbon, dust, tools etc will be shoved out of those holes with super high pressure from the cylinders.
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