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  #1  
Old 05-30-2002, 12:38 AM
MVK MVK is offline
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Auxillary Water Pump Inline Fuse

Hi folks:
Just wanted to share this with you all. I rebuilt( or serviced) my auxillary water pump 2 days back. Its working fine for now. I was suggested from this forum that a bad aux water pump can ruin the ACC board. A major expense. So I decided to put an inline fuse on this pump.
On my car this pump is supplied with power by a socket that has 2 wire in it, The brown one is ground wire. The ground wire should be left alone. The other wire on this car is red/black with purple dots on it and thats the supply(hot wire) wire. I cut that wire and connected an inline fuse ink to each end. Got this link and fuse from Radio shack. Its a 1 amp(one ampere) traditional glass type but slow blowing fuse. After the connections were done, I tested the pump by starting the engine and pressing defrost button. Felt the pump by hand and it was running.
Total cost 5/- total time 20 minutes.
Hope this is useful
MVK

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Last edited by MVK; 01-23-2004 at 12:34 AM.
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  #2  
Old 05-30-2002, 08:07 AM
jcd jcd is offline
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Since your electronics expertise is much higher than mine

Do you think it is possible to wire the aux pump to a manual on off switch and bypass the ACC panel. My pump works fine, but it has fried the panel and won't turn on.

Just a thought.

JCD
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  #3  
Old 05-30-2002, 10:37 AM
MVK MVK is offline
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Hi JCD:
You lost me here. Is your pump working or not? Are you trying to say that your pump is working when attached to external power supply but does not work when plugged into the car?

By the way Aux pump works only when you have heat function or defrost pressed. It turns off when you are in a cooling mode.

Now assuming that you want to by pass the ACC circuit ( meaning you dont want Aux water pump to use any part of the ACC circuit) yes you can run this pump by itself it needs 12V DC supply- can be obtained from battery directly. This will be te crudest way to do it as the supply is unregulated and will eventually fry your pump. You can put a switch on it as well to turn it odd and on. But if I was you I would see if ACC board can be repaired then do what I did. Put a slow blow inline fuse and thats it.
MVK
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Old 05-30-2002, 11:26 AM
jcd jcd is offline
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You are exactly correct

Even thought it wasn't that clear.....you understood my question and provided a good answer. I'm just trying to avoid the $ associated with a new or repaired ACC panel. I've had it with investing in the ACC.

JCD

PS< coming to the NJ diesel meet this saturday?
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  #5  
Old 05-30-2002, 11:30 AM
MVK MVK is offline
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NJ meet

I wish I could come to the NJ meet but I work in a hospital as a pharmacist and that weekend is my weekend to work. May be next meet.
MVK
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  #6  
Old 05-30-2002, 11:31 AM
MVK MVK is offline
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Hi JCD:
consider repairing the ACC. Find an electronic guy it can save you a bundle. If repaired inline fuse is the way to go.

MVK
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  #7  
Old 05-30-2002, 04:44 PM
jcd jcd is offline
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Thanks and see you on the next meet...PS

I work for Roche.....keep dispensing our stuff.

Jim Dowden
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  #8  
Old 01-22-2004, 03:02 PM
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I like to bring threads back from the dead, so here's an oldie I have a question about

When putting in an inline fuse, or connecting two wires more or less anywhere, what is the best method to do it?

I suppose for electronics and speakers soldering is the only real option for quality connections, since the solder essentiallyu turns the two stranded wires into one continuous piece of wire through the connecting metal soldered in.

But what about things liek the inline fuse holder in this application?

I wired in my CB straight to the battery, and used 3m wire crimpers. Its just a plastic sheath with a small metal tube inside that you stick tow wire ends into and crimp down on. Im sure everyone has seen them. They seem to work well, better than the twist-on ones that are typically used in houses, since the crimp doesnt let the wires vibrate apart.

I have since used these crimpers to add in a permenently on outlet for trickle charging my battery in really cold conditions, and also for installing the inline fuse.

Did I make a mistake? Is there a better way to connect wire in these types of situation?

Thanks,

JMH
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1991 350SD (113k)

Past Diesels:
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1985 300D (233K)
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Old 01-22-2004, 04:53 PM
lrg lrg is offline
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Done properly, in my book a crimper is an acceptable way to attach two wires. The problem is that the crimped connection can corrode over time since it is a simple contact connection. When crimping, I usually try to use a heat shrink tube to seal everything up tight. Since you have already crimped I'd at least tape over the crimp joint to try to seal out the elements. On critical connections though, soldering is still best.
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  #10  
Old 01-22-2004, 10:50 PM
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Zen And The Art Of Diesel
 
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What's the rated current draw on this pump? If it's like the cruise actuatator and in the milliamp range, a 1amp fuse may do you no good.

What I'd do, and mercedes should have done, is let the ACC board operate a relay, and the relay would bare the amp load of the pump, not the relativly fragile ACC. Granted most of them work for a decade or better, but simple as it would be, it seems a good idea.

Same logic applies to the cruise amp, and I believe they would last longer, you just shouldnt drive a motor off a transistor setup like that. One day I'll try and rig a relay setup for the cruise as well.
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  #11  
Old 01-22-2004, 11:17 PM
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wolf... If you could make such a setup that dummies like myself could install, perhaps in the open relay holes under the electrical box with the headlight relays, Im sure youd have a lot of buyers... Imagine, $10 in wire and relays, and you could sell it in excess of $25 to people like myself (with instructions, of course).

JMH
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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (162k)
1991 350SD (113k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #12  
Old 01-22-2004, 11:19 PM
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And BTW, I read in another post thatthe internals of the ACC unt were rated for 1.2A, so I believe thats the reasoning for the 1A fuse...

JMH
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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (162k)
1991 350SD (113k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #13  
Old 01-22-2004, 11:52 PM
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I'll have to dig out my manuals and look up the amp draw rateing on that pump. It still wouldnt be a bad idea to take the load off the more fragile parts.

The aux pump would be cake to setup with a relay, the cruise I'm not postive about yet, but I think it could be done. It'd be easier to figure out if mine actually worked correctly.

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