Hood Release Cable

[rmmagow]

On an 83 300CD.
It's not foolishly cold and I really have to replace this thing because the hood is getting very difficult to open. I have the new cable as well as the handle used to pull it from inside the car. I've removed the 4 REAL tight screws that hold the hood latch mechanism in place. Now what do I do? Disassemble the connection at this latch? Will this free up the cable so I can pull it out through the frame? Or should I undo inside first and pull everything out from the front of the car? I am asking this so I don't end up making a lot of work for myself that is unnecessary. Yes, it looks easy to do, but I have a way of making an easy task take 3 weeks instead of three hours. Any guidance is highly appreciated.

[whunter]

Hello rmmagow
Simple directions:
#1. Connect a good heavy wire to the interior end of cable.
#2. Loosen or remove all necessary fasteners.
#3. Pull cable out from engine compartment.
#4. Attach new cable to wire and carefully pull into passenger compartment.
#5. Do not forget any fasteners when reinstalling cable.
#6. Remember to lubricate the hood latch.
#7. Never allow the cable to whip as it can score the paint.

Have a great day.

[rmmagow]

And I thank you. This will work perfectly. I'm embarassed to think I didn't see this from the start.

[Bruce Bonds]

rmmagow, have you done this job yet? I just replaced my cable and can guide you through it if needed. It wasn't hard but was tedious. Especially having to move the aux fan to remove that black plastic cover under the latch. Let me know if you need directions.

[rmmagow]

Hi Bruce,

Yeah, I'd greatly appreciate any guidance. I haven't started the job yet due to family commitments. I want to try and do it this weekend. If you want, you can mail me off list although others probably wouldn't mind knowing the pitfalls either. I was looking at some kind of plastic attachments up over the Aux fan and this kind of put me off pushing right into the job as I can't afford to knock the car out of service since my other 123 is broken. Thanks very much for the offer.

Rich M.

[whunter]

Hello Rich M.
What is wrong with your other 123?
Have a great day.

[rmmagow]

Busted very noisy half shaft. The boots on both were ripped and dry. I'm just afraid to drive it since I'm getting a niose that sounds like a bad exhaust system. I think it's just the parts in the half-shafts grinding themselves to dust. Have to wait till it's nicer out before attempting the swap with new/rebuilt units.

[Bruce Bonds]

First of all here is what mine was doing wrong. When I pulled the trigger to open the hood, it released the latch fine, but would not spring back to the original position. I had to manually push the trigger back in to make the cable push the latch to the lockdown position. I figured there was something wrong with the latch so I lubed everything, and when that didn't work I replaced the latch with one from salvage. It didn't work either so I went back to the yard and got the cable. Now I have $6 invested, but I got to practice on the salvage car. Turns out, my cable was pinched.

1. Move the aux fan out of the way. One clamp on each side with 8mm bolts, and a screw at the bottom of the circle. You don't have to unplug the fan but you might want to cut the black pull-tight thingy that holds the cord to the mount. You can put a new one on later.

2. Loosen the hood latch by removing the four tight screws.

3. Remove the black plastic tray that is under the hood latch. I don't know the purpose of this part, but if you think of one let me know. There are two black plastic plug type clips that hold it up. I was able to re-use mine but you have to be careful. Each is two pieces, a plug with a plastic screw in the center. Squeeze the screw with a pair of pliers and back it out of the plug. After you get these two plugs out, just snake the tray to your left while pulling down.

4. Detach the hood latch from the cable. The clamp is a bit tricky, but don't break it because you have to reuse it. Look at the cable from the under side and you will see the metal clamp that squeezes around the metal tip on the cable. Push up on the clamp and it will come off the cable and swivel upward. There is a post on the other end of the clamp that holds the bottom of the latch to the cable. Carefully slide this post out of the hole. I wedged mine out with a screwdriver.

5. Detach the cable assembly from its mount. You will see that the cable-end is mounted to the body by two 10mm bolts. Back one off and pull the cable toward you.

6. Follow the cable backwards and reach under the backside of the headlight. There is a plactic clip that you can reuse if you don't break it. Unclip the cable.

7. Keep following the cable back toward the firewall. If there is a black plactic strap/clip holding the cable to a wiring harness, just cut it. You can put a plastic pull-tight on it later.

8. Remove the 8mm screw that holds the relay box to the wheelwell. Take off the black plastic cover and detach the two relays from their mounts. They come off easy with a screwdriver. With the 8mm screw out and the relays and their wire harnesses out of the way it is easier to get the cable out from under it.

9. Now snake the cable out from under the hood latch end. When you have it free all the way to the firewall, you are ready to work on the cabin end.

10. Remove the trigger from its mount. Two 10mm bolts hold it to the mount.

11. Remove the cable attachment from the trigger. There is a metal cylinder shaped end that fits in a slot on the trigger.

The next two steps apply because I found it too hard the remove the firewall rubber grommet, even though my replacement cable had a grommet on it.

12. There is a five inch rubber tube surrounding the cable on the cabin side. Cut it off. It won't slide through the grommet.

13. Lubricate the cabin end of the cable, especially that metal cylinder and go around to the front of the firewall and pull the cable out toward the front.

And, as they always say in the Haynes manuals, "Install new part using same steps in reverse order." Sorry this was so long, and lacks technical terms, but I hope it helps.

[tankdriver]

Bumping this to say thank you very much for this. Mine decided not to work yesterday when I was trying to test my vacuum system. I did this today, and though it was very easy to follow w/o pictures, I took a bunch anyway. I'm going to add them into Bruce Bonds's post. Mine is an '84 300TD.

Originally Posted by Bruce Bonds

1. Move the aux fan out of the way. One clamp on each side with 8mm bolts, and a screw at the bottom of the circle. You don't have to unplug the fan but you might want to cut the black pull-tight thingy that holds the cord to the mount. You can put a new one on later.
***

I just slid the zip tie down and hooked the fan off to the side w/a piece of wire.

2. Loosen the hood latch by removing the four tight screws.
***
I took off the two fronts ones and proceeded to strip the back two so I left it on. On my TD, the latch didn't need to be moved. Woohoo.

3. Remove the black plastic tray that is under the hood latch. I don't know the purpose of this part, but if you think of one let me know. There are two black plastic plug type clips that hold it up. I was able to re-use mine but you have to be careful. Each is two pieces, a plug with a plastic screw in the center. Squeeze the screw with a pair of pliers and back it out of the plug. After you get these two plugs out, just snake the tray to your left while pulling down.
***

4. Detach the hood latch from the cable. The clamp is a bit tricky, but don't break it because you have to reuse it. Look at the cable from the under side and you will see the metal clamp that squeezes around the metal tip on the cable. Push up on the clamp and it will come off the cable and swivel upward. There is a post on the other end of the clamp that holds the bottom of the latch to the cable. Carefully slide this post out of the hole. I wedged mine out with a screwdriver.
***
I can only hope your cable end is as clean as mine after 24 years . You can't see the clamp very well, but it pivots up, just like he said. Push the post toward the car to get it out.


5. Detach the cable assembly from its mount. You will see that the cable-end is mounted to the body by two 10mm bolts. Back one off and pull the cable toward you.

6. Follow the cable backwards and reach under the backside of the headlight. There is a plactic clip that you can reuse if you don't break it. Unclip the cable.
***
I couldn't get a pic underneath, but the clamp is right under that white thing. 5in1 tool is unrelated to the job

7. Keep following the cable back toward the firewall. If there is a black plactic strap/clip holding the cable to a wiring harness, just cut it. You can put a plastic pull-tight on it later.

8. Remove the 8mm screw that holds the relay box to the wheelwell. Take off the black plastic cover and detach the two relays from their mounts. They come off easy with a screwdriver. With the 8mm screw out and the relays and their wire harnesses out of the way it is easier to get the cable out from under it.
***
Mine just slid under. Another step I could skip. Yay.

9. Now snake the cable out from under the hood latch end. When you have it free all the way to the firewall, you are ready to work on the cabin end.

10. Remove the trigger from its mount. Two 10mm bolts hold it to the mount.
*** No pic 'cause they are easy to see

11. Remove the cable attachment from the trigger. There is a metal cylinder shaped end that fits in a slot on the trigger.
*** Backside of the trigger
Easiest to remove if you close the trigger

The next two steps apply because I found it too hard the remove the firewall rubber grommet, even though my replacement cable had a grommet on it.

12. There is a five inch rubber tube surrounding the cable on the cabin side. Cut it off. It won't slide through the grommet.
***
I just lightly scored it and pulled down. It tore along the cut.

13. Lubricate the cabin end of the cable, especially that metal cylinder and go around to the front of the firewall and pull the cable out toward the front.

And, as they always say in the Haynes manuals, "Install new part using same steps in reverse order." Sorry this was so long, and lacks technical terms, but I hope it helps.

(2 pictures too many, had to cut down a couple)
Thanks Bruce Bonds!

[TatyOn2]

!!!! I need help !!!!!!

I have some repairs to do, but I can't even get throught Steop#1: Opening the hood!! I don't have a grill (another long story), so I can see the latch under the hood, but when I pull it, nothing happens. I can also see the cable, but pulling it doesn't do anything, but loosen the end that goes towards the drivers side to the under-dash latch. Upon pulling the under-dash latch, nothing happens either. Could the cable be snapped somewhere in between? How can I know? And where can I find instructions to disassemble the under-dash latch to see if the cable is attached there?

Sorry for all the stupid questions...I usually do my own work on my cars, but I just bought this one AS IS from a friend, and I can't find a manual for it ANYWHERE....

Thanks a bunch!

[tyl604]

Just a guess. If the cable is covered with rubber, then you are not actually pulling the metal cable. (Just had this problem on my Land Rover). On the Land Rover I had to cut through the rubber covering, making sure not to cut the cable, then grab the cable with pliers. Pulled pretty hard and the hood popped open. Maybe this would work with the MB.

[RML]

I recently started the job of replacing the hood release cable on my 84 300D, becuase I had to pull really far to get the hood to open. It also did not spring back that well. When I detached the cable at the point where it connects at the latch, I discovered that there is an adjustment that can be made to effectively shorten the cable. This and a good lubrication on the cable and the latch fixed it up really well and I did not need to replace it. I kind of figured there was an adjustment somewhere but did not see it until I started to disconnect the cable. I also found that the rubber grommet at the firewall was out. It was hard to push in until I lubed it up and then it inserted a lot easier. I suspect a lot of hood release cables are replaced when all that is needed is an adjustment and a good lubrication.

[sd300td]

Just replaced my cable today and wanted to add a few comments to Bruce's instructions; which are the most comprehensive for the w123 that I've found.

First, once the black plastic cover is removed determine if the cable just needs adjustment. There is a 10mm barrel adjustment and a couple of 10mm retaining nuts. You can tighten the spring using the barrel adjustment. Lube everything and see if this corrects your problem. I think this is all that my vehicle needed but once I was in to the task and had the OEM replacement cable in hand, I just replaced it.

Originally Posted by Bruce Bonds

First of all here is what mine was doing wrong. When I pulled the trigger to open the hood, it released the latch fine, but would not spring back to the original position. I had to manually push the trigger back in to make the cable push the latch to the lockdown position. I figured there was something wrong with the latch so I lubed everything, and when that didn't work I replaced the latch with one from salvage. It didn't work either so I went back to the yard and got the cable. Now I have $6 invested, but I got to practice on the salvage car. Turns out, my cable was pinched.

1. Move the aux fan out of the way. One clamp on each side with 8mm bolts, and a screw at the bottom of the circle. You don't have to unplug the fan but you might want to cut the black pull-tight thingy that holds the cord to the mount. You can put a new one on later.

Rather than cutting the back zip tie, you may be able to unfasten it with a screwdriver and reuse. This one is a basic zip tie, unlike the fastener attached to the fender wall, so it doesn't matter as much if its cut.

2. Loosen the hood latch by removing the four tight screws.
VERY TIGHT! I went ahead and stripped two of these screws and had to drill them out. Now I get to go to the boneyard tomorrow morning...

3. Remove the black plastic tray that is under the hood latch. I don't know the purpose of this part, but if you think of one let me know. There are two black plastic plug type clips that hold it up. I was able to re-use mine but you have to be careful. Each is two pieces, a plug with a plastic screw in the center. Squeeze the screw with a pair of pliers and back it out of the plug. After you get these two plugs out, just snake the tray to your left while pulling down.

I'm 100% certain that this is a security device. May also help to keep debris out of the latch, but one would be hard pressed to get at the latch without removing this piece.

4. Detach the hood latch from the cable. The clamp is a bit tricky, but don't break it because you have to reuse it. Look at the cable from the under side and you will see the metal clamp that squeezes around the metal tip on the cable. Push up on the clamp and it will come off the cable and swivel upward. There is a post on the other end of the clamp that holds the bottom of the latch to the cable. Carefully slide this post out of the hole. I wedged mine out with a screwdriver.

pop the clamp off the cable, then push the post through the latch enough so that the clamp clears the latch...then it comes right off.

5. Detach the cable assembly from its mount. You will see that the cable-end is mounted to the body by two 10mm bolts. Back one off and pull the cable toward you.

6. Follow the cable backwards and reach under the backside of the headlight. There is a plactic clip that you can reuse if you don't break it. Unclip the cable.

7. Keep following the cable back toward the firewall. If there is a black plactic strap/clip holding the cable to a wiring harness, just cut it. You can put a plastic pull-tight on it later.
Don't cut this pull-tight. It's made so that the mechanic can undo and refasten as needed. Not yer typical zip-tie as it has a post that attaches to the fender wall.

8. Remove the 8mm screw that holds the relay box to the wheelwell. Take off the black plastic cover and detach the two relays from their mounts. They come off easy with a screwdriver. With the 8mm screw out and the relays and their wire harnesses out of the way it is easier to get the cable out from under it.

Not needed on my 82 wagon. The cable slides underneath easily. I suppose other cars may be a little different?

9. Now snake the cable out from under the hood latch end. When you have it free all the way to the firewall, you are ready to work on the cabin end.

10. Remove the trigger from its mount. Two 10mm bolts hold it to the mount.

8mm bolts used on my '82 TD

11. Remove the cable attachment from the trigger. There is a metal cylinder shaped end that fits in a slot on the trigger.

The next two steps apply because I found it too hard the remove the firewall rubber grommet, even though my replacement cable had a grommet on it.

12. There is a five inch rubber tube surrounding the cable on the cabin side. Cut it off. It won't slide through the grommet.

13. Lubricate the cabin end of the cable, especially that metal cylinder and go around to the front of the firewall and pull the cable out toward the front.

Removing the old rubber grommet requires a little tug, but it'll come off. Pull from the outside away from the firewall.

Getting the new grommet to pop into the firewall hole takes considerably more effort.

I found that a lot of pressure while rotating the grommet/cable worked. You really need to lean into it. Push it in from the firewall side. Put the hood in its vertical position so you have more room. Make sure that the cable in the cabin is free and clear and not stuck behind the driverside kickpanel. I used every bit of my 200lbs of girth.

And, as they always say in the Haynes manuals, "Install new part using same steps in reverse order." Sorry this was so long, and lacks technical terms, but I hope it helps.

This helped a lot, thanks! Just be sure to try adjusting the cable before buying a new one and going through all the effort. The cable is a solid metal line, not a braided cable like a bicycle has on it. It could be kinked as well at the pull handle, but I'm willing to bet that lube and adjustment would work in 90% of the cases.

One more thing that I wanted to share was that a new cable may still need to be adjusted properly. The biggest pain for me was removing the black plastic security cover. Since this needs to be done in order to adjust the cable, make every effort to adjust it before reassembly of the cover and aux fan.

I didn't adjust it correctly and now have a put together car with a cable that needs to be adjusted, which I'll probably tackle tomorrow. My mistake was not fastening the lower driver side dash panel before testing the cable and latch. Everything worked smoothly and flawlessly, but once I fastened the lower drive side dash panel I found that the latch lever barely has sufficient travel needed to unlatch the latch easily. I can still get it open, but it takes a tug of the handle which bumps/hits the lower dash panel. I think if you tighten the spring using the barrel adjuster, lever travel will be reduced and unlatching would take place sooner, i.e. with less lever travel....

[edge]

Originally Posted by sd300td

Just replaced my cable today and wanted to add a few comments to Bruce's instructions; which are the most comprehensive for the w123 that I've found.

First, once the black plastic cover is removed determine if the cable just needs adjustment. There is a 10mm barrel adjustment and a couple of 10mm retaining nuts. You can tighten the spring using the barrel adjustment. Lube everything and see if this corrects your problem. I think this is all that my vehicle needed but once I was in to the task and had the OEM replacement cable in hand, I just replaced it.



This helped a lot, thanks! Just be sure to try adjusting the cable before buying a new one and going through all the effort. The cable is a solid metal line, not a braided cable like a bicycle has on it. It could be kinked as well at the pull handle, but I'm willing to bet that lube and adjustment would work in 90% of the cases.

One more thing that I wanted to share was that a new cable may still need to be adjusted properly. The biggest pain for me was removing the black plastic security cover. Since this needs to be done in order to adjust the cable, make every effort to adjust it before reassembly of the cover and aux fan.

I didn't adjust it correctly and now have a put together car with a cable that needs to be adjusted, which I'll probably tackle tomorrow. My mistake was not fastening the lower driver side dash panel before testing the cable and latch. Everything worked smoothly and flawlessly, but once I fastened the lower drive side dash panel I found that the latch lever barely has sufficient travel needed to unlatch the latch easily. I can still get it open, but it takes a tug of the handle which bumps/hits the lower dash panel. I think if you tighten the spring using the barrel adjuster, lever travel will be reduced and unlatching would take place sooner, i.e. with less lever travel....

Thank you! Great instructions, WD-40 the cable under the black cover and at the pull handle under the dash. Tightened the slack in the adjustable nut, good to go.

[rmmagow]

Hi Bruce,

First, thanks very much for such a quick and through reply. I don't think there's any such thing as too much detail when it comes to working on these old things.

Second, I hope to be able to supplement what you talked about here with photographs when I finally get around to the job. I'll probably talk to Jeff about putting it all on his site.

Fortunately I go the hood to pop one more time so I could change the oil this weekend. I'm needing at least one full day of decent warmness to tackle this job. So much crap for such a seemingly small job. My other car, a 300D sedan, just gave up the axle ghost so I have to do the cable thing in one nice clean shot since it's my only car this winter. Your directions/experience are greatly appreciated.

Thanks Very Much
Rich M.