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  #16  
Old 05-06-2018, 03:55 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 259
Another vote for Marc at Sun Valley. Put one of his rebuilds in my 92 300TE a month ago and it has been absolutely flawless. Only adjustment required was to dial in the Bowden cable, which took all of 15 minutes of driving. He is the ONLY trans rebuilder I know of that actually runs each rebuild on a dyno to assure it is right before it leaves the shop.

if his prices seem high, check the cost of a full rebuild kit ($350) and a new converter ($350), then figure in any bad common internal parts like bands, and such ($200), then price a new pump ($500) or drums, etc... Now, if that isn't enough... do you know the exact model of converter that fits your car? do you know the pilot nose diameter and length? I literally removed my trans, pulled the rebuild out of the box, bolted up the rebuild and drove the car. No down time at all on the trans.

I did have one minor issue with a vacuum port that was not present on my original trans that was on the rebuild. I emailed Marc on a Saturday morning and he responded within minutes, on his off day, to point me straight.

Just can't say enough good things about Marc and his work.

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  #17  
Old 05-11-2018, 08:11 PM
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 695
transmission fixed!

As best as I can figure, It turned out to be the kinked tranny cooler line that
caused my transmission to not function.

After I did the test for the front pump (undoing the cooler line with hoses going into gallon jugs)
and getting lots of flow quickly, I straightened out the bent coil on the line as best I could and reattached it.

I then did another test recommended by member Frank Reiner and jumpered the kickdown switch.
I fired up the car after refilling the fluid and went through the gears.
Nothing at first, then some slight clattering in R, then I could feel the tranny take hold.
Drive shaft was removed so I put it in R, looked under and, sure enough,
the flange was slowly spinning. Put it in D and the flange changed direction, spinning faster.
I then unjumpered the kickdown switch and and had it unplugged and plugged in--all with the the same results.
Figured it must be the cooler line.

Finally got everything back together today, filling with fresh Shell 134 ATF and went for a drive.
All seems well. So, the fix was a $10 cooler line instead of a $2K rebuild.

I guess the manual conversion will have to wait for another day.......

Jeff
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1984 300SD 300,000 miles--two tank WVO setup
2.88 diff & 500SEL anti-squat rear end

Last edited by Rooster300SD; 05-11-2018 at 10:36 PM.
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  #18  
Old 05-11-2018, 09:03 PM
tyl604's Avatar
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 3,640
Wow. Great news. Great forum.
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  #19  
Old 05-11-2018, 10:48 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 259
Great news. Wish I had been so lucky, lol. Knew mine was toast when I pried open the filter and found 2nd gear band pieces filling it.
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  #20  
Old 08-18-2018, 01:16 AM
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 695
bad valve body

Thought I would link this thread to my thread
No gears from bad valve body
for people searching in the future.

Replacing the transmission cooler line did not fix my problem since I lost
all my gears again a couple of weeks later.
I replaced the valve body and that fixed the problem--the tranny is still working well.



Jeff
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1984 300SD 300,000 miles--two tank WVO setup
2.88 diff & 500SEL anti-squat rear end
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  #21  
Old 08-20-2018, 12:10 AM
ykobayashi's Avatar
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 1,261
Glad you got it sorted so cheap.

The best decision I made on my SD was getting a trans from Marc at Sun Valley. That transformed the car.

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79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD)
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles
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