Sealing the turbo oil return tube

[MongooseGA]

Hey all,

I battled with replacing the gaskets and grommet on the turbo oil return tube last year. I goobered the upper gasket and had my indy re-do it. Now I've noticed that the grommet at the bottom of the tube is leaking pretty moderately. The grommet must not have seated properly.

Not wanting to undo the now oil-tight gasket at the turbo side, and not wanting to drop the pan to mess with removing/replacing the grommet... What can I use to just seal it up at the exterior on the grommet? The car isn't going anywhere anytime soon as far as selling it so I don't care if it's the cheap method, at long as it keeps the oil off of my new suspension rubber.

RTV? Gasket maker? Any suggestions?

The last leak I know of is under the IP. I've just had it rebuilt though, so I'll try to let that vendor fix that one. I'm stoked to have a leak free 617 that doesn't try to leave signatures on the driveways everywhere we go.

[SD Blue]

The turbo drain is primarily sealed by the O-ring. The grommet is basically a back-up seal. There have been folks that goobered a bunch of RTV on there but it's so darn easy to fix, I can't see the reasoning.

There has been several write-ups on how to do this but most make it entirely too difficult. It requires no excessive force and dropping the pan is unnecessary.
1)Unbolt the upper tube from the turbo.
2)Push the top tube down to minimize the length.
3)Tilt the tube out towards the left wheel and remove the top section.
4)Tie a section of rope in a clove-hitch around the lower section and wrap the other end around a large pry bar, using the manifold for leverage.
When re-installing, use assembly lube or silicone grease and install the grommet on the lower tube about 2-3 inches above the end.
5)Install the O-rings and insert the lower tube.
6)Tilt the lower tube and install the upper tube, pushing the two sections together.
7)Tilt it into place and bolt the upper tube to the turbo.
8)Last, slide the grommet down the lower tube and gently pull/push into place with bent nose pliers. Use plenty of lube to keep from damaging the grommet.

I've changed mine out in about 15 minutes.

[MongooseGA]

You must be much better than I! I fought that project like crazy.

If I'm going to unbolt at the turbo, will I need another gasket again? Existing one is not even 6 months old.

I'm concerned that I'll take the current non leaking portion and turn it into a leaking portion. But, I wonder if I can try to pop the grommet into place in situ? Maybe there's more pressure there than I could overcome with a pair of needle nose.

[tjts1]

Take it out, do it right.

[SD Blue]

I would change the gasket as it's in a very critical area. The biggest difficulty with it is getting the surfaces clean of the old gasket. I used the spray gasket remover and a Dremel with a wire brush. However, if it's been changed recently, I'm betting it will peel right off.
The grommet is a back-up to the O-ring and it's likely damaged. If you follow the sequence I've mentioned, you will find it's easier than expected. The main thing to remember is to slide the grommet down last.
Push it down with a rag wrapped around it then clean with brake cleaner might help the grommet "grip" the tube and stay in place.

[tdoublenastywitit]

Friggin throw some gasket maker in there and call it day...

Let the next guy spend all day fixing it in a few years.

[1983/300CD]

Flex Seal and bubble gum.
Drop the pan.

[BillGrissom]

It is just a gravity drain. There shouldn't be any crankcase pressure to force the oil out, unless you have excessive blow-by. Clean real well, coat with silicone RTV and wrap that w/ self-fusing silicone tape. "Should work". If you do need to change the grommet, I doubt you could do it well without dropping the lower oil pan. You then use a correct-sized socket to push the grommet out from below.

[Diesel911]

What I can remember about the bottom O-ring on the tube is different the what others have said. To me it appeared that the bottom of the Tube and therefore the O-ring had to be pulled up inside of the Grommet. And, if I remember correctly there is a groove inside of the Grommet to accommodate the O-ring.

Best to take a look at the relationship by seeing that relationship before you install the grommet into the block.

However, I am not sure of my memory on that.

I do know that it worked out way better pushing the lower turbo drain tube up from the oil pan side with a socket and in my case I gently used a bottle type hydraulic jack.

[Diesel911]

On mine next to the Turbo Drain is the Air Filter Oil Seperator Oil Return Tube. That can also be the source of a leak if it is not staying in lace.

It might be possible to smear enough RTV silicon around it but it won't stick to an oily surface.

[MongooseGA]

Thanks to everyone for your responses.

While under the car yesterday I played around with this a little. I was *hoping* the grommet just wasn't seated fully and maybe I could snap it into place but alas, not the case. There's a ridge along the upper edge of the grommet that is allowing oil to leak from beneath it. I wonder if I goofed and put it in upside down? I can confirm that there is no other leaking from anywhere else in the assembly.

I picked up some gasket maker. I was able to get it totally clean with brake cleaner yesterday. I'll scuff everything up and run a clean bead around the perimeter. Just seems like such a hassle for something so simple. The car isn't for sale any time soon, maybe I'll plan to replace the grommet and do the whole bit the next time I have the pan off.

@ Bill, I like the silicone tape over the RTV idea. Do you have a particular product you'd recommend?

[ROLLGUY]

I just did mine yesterday (well half of it, I will finish today). I know you aren't doing the whole job, but only sealing what you have there now. I would suggest against that, and admonish you to do it right. If done right, and you have the tools and gaskets/seals, it should take less than a half hour, and can be done with no bloodletting or cursing. The list by SD Blue is very close to the way I have done it with a few minor exceptions. Rather than pulling on the tube with a rope, removing the old grommet allows the tube to be pulled out easily. Also, when installing all the parts, I suggest NO OIL of any kind. It seems that if there is any oil between the rubber and mating surfaces, oil will continue to leak past. At first, I did these without any lube (everything clean and dry), but now I use Gasgacinch on all the rubber parts against clean mating surfaces. I also glue the drain tube gasket to the tube with the Gaskacinch (coat both surfaces, let dry, then place gasket on the tube). The Gasgacinch also acts as a lubricant to allow the grommet to slide on the tube easily, and into the pan. I find it easier to put the Orings on the tube first, and then slip the grommet on the tube over and past the Oring in it's groove. If you use 1/4" drive tools for the drain tube bolts, it is easy an fast to do this job.

[MongooseGA]

Thanks for the input. I do agree, it should be done properly and not necessarily band-aided long term.

I do not have the gaskets and such handy at the moment. I'll give it a shot to replace the lot in the future, but for the time being I just want to keep the oil off of my new suspension. I have to plan ahead for work to be done as this is my daily driver.

I don't know why I had such a hard time with the job the first time around. I don't remember how exactly I did it, but I would have followed the DIY here on the site. Maybe Pelican's directions didn't utilize the trick you and SDBlue mentioned.

[Clemson88]

Our cars take well to being repaired fast or slow but they don't take to halfast repairs. After a failure I decide to do again slowly with intense determination to get it right. It is not a failure until you quit or settle for halfast.

[ROLLGUY]

Originally Posted by Clemson88

Our cars take well to being repaired fast or slow but they don't take to halfast repairs. After a failure I decide to do again slowly with intense determination to get it right. It is not a failure until you quit or settle for halfast.

Yes it needs to be done allfast, not halfast