Drop the oil pan and knock it out ~ once the bellows shaped grommet pertifies, you're not getting it out without denting that tube .

Most of the time the original oil pan gasket will be fine .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

I have not done this yet... but I remember there being a thread where someone put a pair of hose clamps on the tube and then used those to provide a leverage point without damaging the tube... Doh… it's the wiki.... www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM617TurboDrainTube

Also note...

Part 617-018-00-29 - check valve is NLA. I was lucky enough to have a forum member that had a spare ship one to me for when I do get around to it.

I clamped a Vice Grip on the tube but mine was out of chassis. Might work in chassis, might not. Be forewarned that the thick gasket going into the pan is a STINKER to get back in (did that in chassis). It's stiff enough that it doesn't like to compress enough to slide into it's groove though with silicone lube I did eventually get it to go. I used a socket and extension as a driver to pound it in.

Dan

I pushed mine out with a socket from underneath (small jack) and pushed it in by putting hose clamps on the tube and tapping it down using a long 3/8 extension and small ball peen hammer. I posted pics to the thread. Perhaps it will show up in a search.

Look on youtube. There is a method where you can get the upper & Lower parts of the tube lined up a certain way and give the tube a jerk and the 2 halves will force each other in to where they are supposed to go.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

OK, I have picked at the grommet. I attached a contraption onto the tube using tubing that fits around the outside of the tube held in place with hose clamps. Then I used a lever to pull up on the tube. With leverage I'm sure I was putting a few hundred pounds of upwards force on it. NO movement. Monday evening, After I repair the lever that I broke, I'm going to try it applying heat to the bottom of the tube to soften up the kryptonite strength grommet. Wish me luck.

I just tried using my contraption pulling with hundreds of pounds of upward force. And I did this while warming the lower grommet with a heat gun. No luck. In the DIY articles it doesn't warn us that getting that tube out is nearly impossible without removing the lower oil pan. Tomorrow evening I remove the oil pan unless someone here comes up with a bright idea to save me the work...

It's no big deal to drop the lower oil pan, you'll be able to wipe out the accumulated sludge at the same time .

If you're working in the street, drive both passenger side wheels up on the curb making certain the tread is fully up on the curb ! .

Lots of space to work then .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

OK, I dropped the pan. Not a big deal. But, what IS a big deal is that pounding on that tube from underneath, it still won't pop out. It seems there is something holding it in there. Has anyone had a hard time getting these out from the bottom?

Yes, it can be a bear when the grommet is hardened rock hard .

None of the penetrants mentioned will soften that old grommet and drills/sheet metal screws will damage the tube, it's only sheet metal .

I used a sharp X-Acto ( X-ACTO Knives | Cutting Tools, Hobby Knives, Craft Knives ) knife to cut away most of the boot from above, not easy, mind you don't slash your fingers ! .

Harbor Freight Et. Al. has cheap copies .

The grommet came out very slowly and it little tiny bits and pieces, took me a while .

Then push the tube up and out from below ~ the diameter of the pusher is important ~ not too big, not too small, experiment with different 3/8" drive sockets inverted on a 6" extension before applying the lifting pressure .

You only want to press on the _tube_ not the rubber at all .

If you simply -must- try to soften that old rock hard rubber grommet, use clean & fresh brake fluid, it'll need to soak a while and the brake fluid will soften up other rubber items so don't be careless with it ! .

Now you know why Mechanics are all RICH and GOOD NATURED ! .

(or, not ) .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Use a trolley jack and a wooden dowel to 'press' it out without damaging the bore.

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78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014
79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022

Right now the engine it sitting about 3 inches high in the engine bay because the deep socket is being jacked up by a floor jack. I also pulled from the top on a hose held onto the lower tube by a hose clamp. Nothing. It's still not coming out. Why don't all of the DIY articles warn that this is one of the more difficult jobs on this engine? I'd rather replace the starter.

Kneel on the valvecover, adding your body weight will give a counter-push against the jack.

If that fails, spray your favorite penetrant (Kroil, or biodiesel, 50/50 ATF/acetone mix, etc.) on the rubber grommet to soften the rubber.

Let it sit overnight on the jack...might move by the morning.

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78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014
79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022

Alec, I've done everything except the penetrant oil. I'll try PB Blaster. (Does anyone else think that stuff smells like candy)

Any other ideas you all have will be tried as well. Thanks!

CAREFULLY drill small vertical holes into the rubber grommet to weaken it.

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78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014
79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022

I'll look and see if that's possible to get a drill down there.

Other ideas?