This lower drain tube will not pull out of the pan. All of the DIY articles I have found simply say "pull the tube out" after removing the upper tube. I have my manifolds and turbo out. So, access is way easier than normal. But, this tube is not pulling out! What's holding it in there?

O ring is the only thing holding it. Mine was very tough to remove.

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Milan Brown 1979 240D, rebuilt OM617.952 turbo diesel, rebuilt 722.315 transmission (my only daily driver)

Instagram: @maximed93

The turbo drain tube (617-187-10-01) has an upper and a lower turbo drain o-ring (004-997-53-48).
There is also a thick lower turbo drain grommet (617-187-01-85).
With time the grommet can get less pliable (even rock hard), and make it very difficult to remove the turbo drain tube from the fitting in the oil sump housing.

Grabbing the top of the turbo drain tube and attempting to move it like a joystick can break the vulcanized grip the grommet has on the recessed fitting in the sump.
Oftentimes you have to nibble away pieces of the grommet with a pick to get the turbo drain tube liberated.

Hope this was helpful.

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78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014
79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022

Hah! My one experience doing this took a lot of force. Mine seemed loose in that it wiggled back and forth but it just wouldn’t pop out.

I tied a piece of climbing rope around the tube and placed a floor jack handle with padding over my valve cover and levered it up. The climbing rope dug into the tube so much I have a permanent dent the shape of a clove hitch in the tube now . Edit - now I clearly remember. One end of the Jack handle on the valve cover wrapped in rags. The other end over the passenger side fender then over my shoulder while I did a deep squat and slowly raised the bar using my legs. Rope tied in the middle of the bar. OMG did that thing come out with a pop and clang.

It was scary how much force it required. I was scared I’d warp my valve cover.

Had me cursing all the posts saying “and then pull up and remove the tube”.

Miraculously mine came out in one piece.

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79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD)
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles

OK, Tonight, I'm going to pick away at the rubber grommet at the bottom and see if that helps. Does anyone have ideas as to how to grip the tube better to get more pulling force?

Soft open-weave drawer liner can give a better grip.
Also great for removing large jar lids.
De-grease the outside of the turbo drain tube beforehand to improve the grip.

Alternative method: remove the lower oil pan, use a hammer and appropriately sized wooden dowel from below to drive the the turbo drain tube up and out.

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78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014
79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022

When I used the method of putting a Hose Clamp around the lower Tube and using a large screwdriver to catch under the clamp it dented the tube but it came out.

I used a socket inside of the tube to get the dent out.

Others have said that you can simply cut off and pick the rubber grommet out with a needle nosed plies (likely one with a 90 degree bend) till the tube comes out.

I did not try this but if you can push the Tube down which would shove the fat end down past the grommet and remove the Oil and the pan you can get a thin screwdriver up under the grommet and push it upwards or at lest pieces of it upward.

I have a thread on this project somewhere.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I took off the pan,and cut it with dikes,needed pan gasket anyways.

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran

Ordering a new pan gasket now just to be safe. Is it easy to pull the oil pan?

Yes, you need to remove around 25 or so Allen head bolts.
Clean the bolt heads out with cotton swabs and solvent to avoid stripping the bolt heads.
Tap the socket into the bolt to make sure you have a good grip.
Give a quick tug to crack each bolt loose.

Edit: Two of the Allen bolts (on my W116s) are longer with spacers, clamps, and rubber isolators to secure the transmission oil cooler lines to the front of the engine.
Take a photo, before disassembly, to remember where they go back in upon reassembly.

The rubber isolators probably need to be replaced, there are six in total (3 per line).
I have the MB part number at home and will post it to this thread.
Grommets: MB part number (112-997-02-81) item 110 and 85 in the EPC drawing

Attached Thumbnails

 

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78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014
79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022

I believe I tried using the rope trick mentioned earlier, but since my engine was out and on an engine stand, it didn't work for me.

Can't even remember how I ended up getting the tube out, but I think I used something to knock it out from below.

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Milan Brown 1979 240D, rebuilt OM617.952 turbo diesel, rebuilt 722.315 transmission (my only daily driver)

Instagram: @maximed93

I think I just tied the climbing rope to the tube with a clove hitch. It grabbed on under the upper flange. The rope was about 3/8” dia. The more I pulled the better the hitch cinched down.

The tube was thin. The rope dented it. I wish I tried the socket trick to ping out the dents. It is still dented but it doesn’t leak.

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79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD)
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles

I pulled the lower oil pan and popped the drain tube upward using a socket of that diameter as a bearing plate.

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84 300SD
85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic

Drop the oil pan and knock it out ~ once the bellows shaped grommet pertifies, you're not getting it out without denting that tube .

Most of the time the original oil pan gasket will be fine .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

I have not done this yet... but I remember there being a thread where someone put a pair of hose clamps on the tube and then used those to provide a leverage point without damaging the tube... Doh… it's the wiki.... www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM617TurboDrainTube

Also note...

Part 617-018-00-29 - check valve is NLA. I was lucky enough to have a forum member that had a spare ship one to me for when I do get around to it.