Oil cooler line hose/crimp type

[Shern]

It's rebuild time: I need to remove the lines in order to extract a broken bolt.

Once I find either a hydraulic hose shop, or someone capable, is there a particular
type of hose and or crimp I should be asking for?

[Sugar Bear]

I don't know the answer to your question but offer the following:

The nuts that hold the lines to the cooler are known to seize and destroy the cooler threads upon loosening. Some apply heat and penetrant multiple times before trying to break it loose. Others cautiously cut the nut away as thin as possible without touching the threads and then crack the nut.

Good luck!!!

[87tdwagen]

If you find a hydraulic shop and let them know what you want and taking the old hose, they will hook you up. Essentially you need a oil rated hose capable of the psi needed for the oil cooler. Don't know what that is for your car, but safe bet any commonly available 350psi hydraulic hose of the correct size will work. The fittings themselves if in good condition can be used fir the new hose. The fittings generally are of the ferrule type, and a slip collar is crimped over the end to hold in place. Reuse you fittings and pay for hose, crimps and labor.

[Shern]

Thanks gents.

I'm well aware of the dangers involved in decoupling the oil coiler.
Truth be told, I'd prefer to not do this at all, but I need to get at that bolt...

Someone suggested getting AN adapters for the oil cooler and the oil filter tower (possibly from amazon) and then having hoses made at NAPA. If I went this route, I could simply dremel off the nuts at the oil cooler. I suppose the third option would be the double hose clamp method people seem to be doing these days.

[Sugar Bear]

For your third option do you mean grinding away the collar and double clamping onto the exposed barbed fitting?

[Shern]

Originally Posted by Sugar Bear

For your third option do you mean grinding away the collar and double clamping onto the exposed barbed fitting?

Exactly.

Or using some kind of crimp fitting in situ?

[Diesel911]

If someone rebuilds the hoses, you need to remind them to be sure to index the hoses properly.

I used 2 Oetiker clamps per hose on the Oil Cooler end and 2 norma clamps per hose on the bottom. I wanted to use Oetikers on the bottom by there was no room for the crimping tool.

More pics in post 130.
Cheap oil cooler hose replacement.

I don't know what size hose a 240D uses but on m 300D it is ID 15mm Choline and I bought that hose by the meter from Bellmetric. However, one of our members said you can get it for less at Porsch dealers.
Choline is used in many factory-made oil cooler hoses.

[ykobayashi]

Shern,

There are some threads here where people used double hose clamps. Oeticker clamps may be able to work in situ with 90deg pliers.

Going to the hose shop is probably easier. Make sure they know the hose will need to make a bend. Some of those hydraulic hoses are really stiff. Best to snap a photo before pulling them off and showing that to the tech.

I had some made once but I think they had a pressure closer to 3000psi and they were stiff. For a piece of heavy equipment not oil cooler lines. Just keep that in mind when picking hoses in addition to temperature, pressure and oil compatibility.

I had to take my hoses out to crimp them with my AC crimper. All on the bench. No room for the tool on the car. It was one of those hand pump hydraulic tools. Used Goodyear Galaxy hose and AC ferrules.

I must have managed to get the hoses off without galling the fittings. I think I used a lot of penetrant and made sure I could rock them back and forth slowly before unscrewing them slowly.

[Sugar Bear]

If you disconnect at the oil filter housing you may be able to leave the cooler end attached and take it to a hydraulic shop where they could crimp new hose without disturbing the cooler threads. I'd prefer shop crimped but would be comfortable with double clamped. As mentioned indexing makes a big difference.

Good luck and post your results.

[martureo]

First, as has already been mentioned, be careful when removing the hoses from the oil cooler. If you manage to mess up the oil cooler or have a seized fitting it isn't the end of the world. MB made a repair piece for this.

Drill 21/32 for a M18 x 1.50mm tap. Tap the hole and use MBZ p/n 915013-013002 thread replacement adaptor. $5 from the dealer.



Please don't use hose clamps. Just please don't.


I'd suggest going to an AN fitting setup as its going to be easier to maintain and easier to setup.

https://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/354554-converting-oil-cooler-lines-stainless-braided-hose.html

[Shern]

I certainly don't want to use hose clamps.

Think what I'll do is cut the rubber and remove the oil cooler, hoses attached.
An AC crimp sounds great but I don't have the tools. Hopefully a shop will be able to do that part for me.

The question is... say I'm able to have the lines rebuilt without removing them from the cooler: Is it possible to reinstall them while still attached to the cooler? That's a bulky operation. If so, I have a couple things going for me.

1.) the oil cooler is the type with both hose fittings at the bottom.
2.) I've removed my AC compressor and bracket so I should have a bit of extra space.

[ykobayashi]

Originally Posted by Shern

I certainly don't want to use hose clamps.

Think what I'll do is cut the rubber and remove the oil cooler, hoses attached.
An AC crimp sounds great but I don't have the tools. Hopefully a shop will be able to do that part for me.

No. What 87tdwagen said. Pull them off the car intact. They’re easy to get off if you’re willing to undo an engine mount and Jack up the engine 1”. The metal section just swings out between the car chassis and engine mount.

Don’t bother with the AC stuff. It’s easier and cheaper to go to the hydraulic hose shop. I see so many Hose-man shops as I drive up the 5. You only need 1’ of hose each. It shouldn’t cost much. The hydraulic lines and crimps are so much more robust than the AC or Cohline line it’s stupid not to go there.

I only did it with my AC stuff because I had a lot of #12 barrier hose leftover from my AC build projects.

[Sugar Bear]

Avoid cutting the hoses if possible for the mentioned indexing of the fittings. See if it looks feasible to disconnect at the oil filter housing, leave the connections at the cooler untouched (except for good soakings with PB) and remove the hoses and the cooler together. Take the cooler with hoses attached to a hydraulic hose maker.

Good luck!!!

[Shern]

Originally Posted by ykobayashi

No. What 87tdwagen said. Pull them off the car intact. They’re easy to get off if you’re willing to undo an engine mount and Jack up the engine 1”. The metal section just swings out between the car chassis and engine mount.

Don’t bother with the AC stuff. It’s easier and cheaper to go to the hydraulic hose shop. I see so many Hose-man shops as I drive up the 5. You only need 1’ of hose each. It shouldn’t cost much. The hydraulic lines and crimps are so much more robust than the AC or Cohline line it’s stupid not to go there.

I only did it with my AC stuff because I had a lot of #12 barrier hose leftover from my AC build projects.

Roger that. Lots of space with a 616... I may not even need to raise the engine.

Originally Posted by Sugar Bear

Avoid cutting the hoses if possible for the mentioned indexing of the fittings. See if it looks feasible to disconnect at the oil filter housing, leave the connections at the cooler untouched (except for good soakings with PB) and remove the hoses and the cooler together. Take the cooler with hoses attached to a hydraulic hose maker.

Good luck!!!

Exactly my thought. Turning the nuts at the housing shouldn't be much trouble.
As soon as my thin wrenches arrive, I'll attempt to remove the entire apparatus intact.

[87tdwagen]

Your best bet, is to soak the unions with penetrating oil (PB Blaster) and carefully remove the hoses. Take them intact to the hydraulic shop, and have them make exact copies, this way, they get the indexing correct. If you cut the rubber, there's no way for them to index them without the end pieces anyway.

They will have the appropriate crimps and tools and will deliver a finished product. I've had many AC lines done by hydraulic shops with this same approach and never a complaint from the shop, it's what they do.