I'd just use the 7 year old ones.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

I had this problem on my '85 300D. Left front. I tried the special vise grip tool, an 11mm flare wrench, even a 6" pipe wrench. By now the male part of the joint was toast. A used brake line was at the PnP. I used a small angle grinder to cut just below the ruined hex without damaging the clip attached to the body. Then in with new hose and used steel line up to the master. I used a touch of aluminum anti-seize on the male threads.

I entered the Dorman part number (H380009) on Amazon.ca. It came up and I ordered. Not counting on it. Three other large vendors had none in their warehouses. In the meantime assuming leaving old ones in place. If they do ship, will be back to trying to release the flares!

Next issue was separating old disks from hubs. Impact gun wouldn't budge them! Now soaking. May need heat.

Brand new OE ATEs arriving Monday Zimmerman disks, Pagid pads here.

At 82, taking my time. Hopefully last brake job (on this car!)

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Tubing nuts often seize between the tube and the nut. IMO the anti-seize needs to go on the tube, slide the nut back out it on the tube and slide the nut forward. Fill the void between the nut and the tube with penetrating oil repeatedly. My preference is Kroil, PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench. Notice what isn't listed...???

Graham keep at it!!! Look up and consider using electrolysis bath rust removal. You could put the entire rotor in the bath to help break things loose. I've had amazing results.

Good luck!!!

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

Don't understand that. How would I slide the nut back & forth on the tubing when it is still stuck in place?

I post here just to vent some of the frustration of dealing with old cars that are driven in salt. And get some moral support Not my first rodeo. Been through this many times on my old cars. But these days I seem to have forgotten things I learned along the way

This PM, I removed caliper, dust shield and disk/hub on the other side so taking a break! Probably just clean and paint the dust shield and parts of suspension rest of weekend. Disks/hubs can soak until Monday! Then they get HEAT!

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

OK, there was something I had forgotten

The reason the disk-hub bolts could not be removed, was not because they were rusted. Penetrating fluid did no good. It was the Loctite on the bolts preventing them from coming out (even with an impact wrench)!!

I applied heat on opposite (wheel side) of the hub where the stuck bolt ends can be seen. Applied heat one at a time for about 2 min with a small butane torch. I then removed the bolts by hand using an Allen key with a short steel tube for leverage.

Glad to have that out of the way.

Hopefully same result with flare nuts, IF I change the hoses.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5