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  #1  
Old 11-22-2002, 09:03 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Mustang, OK
Posts: 509
Smile 190D 2.2 Questions

Howdy,

I purchased an '84 190D 2.2 5 speed for daily transportation about a week ago and have been enjoying it immensely, but have a couple of questions.

(1) Controversial issue: I'm going to change the fluids here in the next week or so. What weight oil should I use? The manual recommends 10w40 for my temperature range, but this is a little harder to find in a synthetic grade. Is 5W30 weight in Mobil Delvac recommended? It will be mighty cold in Oklahoma in the next couple of weeks. I hate to start an oil debate, I'm pretty much sold on synthetic, so I'm really just interested in weight recommendations.

(2) I've been having problems when it is really cold (<40) getting the glowplug light to come on. It starts fine if the light comes on and it always comes on when it is warmer outside. Would this indicate a battery not up to snuff or is this an indication of another problem?

(3) The car vibrates at idle more than I think it should. I've run a bottle of Techron through it and it is running very well, but It seems the idle is set a little low. I can rev the engine a little in neutral and it smooths right out. Would this indicate any other problems?

It really does run and drive very nicely once it gets off idle.

Thanks,

Sholin

p.s. The only thing I have noticed driving it around is why is everybody in such a damn rush? People should slow down and enjoy the drive more.
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What else, '73 MB 280 SEL (Lt Blue)
Daily driver: '84 190D 2.2 5 spd.
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  #2  
Old 11-22-2002, 09:33 PM
KylePavao
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Good choice

You would not need to switch to an oil weight that is that low, maybe you could go with a weight that is rated for all temeperature ranges you are encountering. If the light for the GP's comes on intermittently, check the GP relay for continuity to each of the glow plugs to make sure their working, or just glow them after engine is cold, turn off and feel around each plug. Differign warmth can be a sign.

Also, after the glow plug light goes out, wait 10-50 seconds (depending on how confident you are) The glow plugs stay on after light goes out. This definately helps during cold starts.

Your rough idle cold be a variety of things, but first check the engine mounts. They may be worn and cause the engine to shake abnormally.

You definately want to take the long way home in one of these cars, their so fun to drive. (Ive been doing it lately to burn the bad fuel out of the system of the vehicle, but still fun ) This is a great forum, with many helpful people. Don't be afraid to ask questions. Any of the veterans on this board knows I was never afraid too!
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  #3  
Old 11-23-2002, 04:52 PM
190D22's Avatar
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Columbus, Ohio
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My GP light started not comming on all the time (had to go from on to off multiple times for the light to come on) and when the light DID come on the starts were very very hard and it would missfire like crazy for about 10-15 seconds. Turns out I had 2 or 3 GPs dead. Replaced them all, now the light comes on everytime, and it starts easy with minimal missfiring now that it's cold. It only misses once or twice every once in a while on cold start ups. I let it preheat a little after the light goes out on first start in the morning. Usually about 10-15 seconds after the light goes out.

As for rough idle, mine will go into these rough idles sometimes, and a tap on the accelerator clears it up. The passenger side engine mount could be changed, but it's not that bad so I'm not going to worry about it for a while.

I am running 15W40 Shell Rimula (specially designed for diesels) right now. Temperatures have only been as low as 32F, and it runs great cold so far.

I have had to replace the battery already (this is into my second year owning this car) and when it was 'dead' the preglow would go fine, but when I could crank it it could give one or two weak cranks then it would barely crank at all and then nothing. Luckily I've got the jeep her to jump from, I preheated off of my battery then when it was time to crank connect the cable and it would start right up no problem.

Start with glow plugs and go from there. Most people on here will say replace only the dead ones. I don't see any problem with replacing only the bad or doing them all at once.

Good luck with your car! By the way, what color is your car? Mine's blueish silver and blue interior.
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  #4  
Old 11-23-2002, 05:50 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Mustang, OK
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Thumbs up

Thanks Kyle and 190D for your advice. I probably am due for a motor mount changeout and I'll bet that will solve most of my rough idle problem. Although it starts, runs, and shifts extremely well, It seems there is more driveline windeup when I shift sometimes than other manual tranny cars I've driven. I'll bet the tranny mount and engine mounts could use replacing. I'll check these next weekend when I replace the fluids.

I've also noticed that the car shakes quite a bit when I turn the key off. Is this normal or another symptom of bad motor mounts?

As far as the GP light not coming on, it really is strange. It will start very easily if the outside temp is above 40 or so, but the GP light just doesn't come on below that. I replaced the battery yesterday to an Optima. The car would crank OK, but there is no record of when t he battery was last replaced, so I thought it best to just replace it for peace of mind. It's supposed to be very 2cold tomorrow and Monday, so I'll see if it is just a battery issue or not. Then I'll do more troubleshooting of the GP and GP relay. Still, the car cranks fine when cold and starts very easily when the GP lights come on. I don't have to wait much at all after the GP light goes off. As soon as it goes off, it will start right away.

Could only 1 bad glow plug cause the light not to light? Are they in series or parallel?

190D, I have noticed the idle behavior that you are alluding to: sometimes when I come to an idle it doesn't idle very smoothly but once the throttle is "bumped" a little, the idle smooths out nicely. The only explanation I have is maybe excess fuel in the deceleration process has cooled a combustion chamber sufficiently to prevent the idle charge from lighting correctly. Since that cylinder is not burning in a timely fashion, it is not generating enough heat to raise its temperature for the next fuel charge. Bumping the idle and then letting off the accelerator seems to cure the problem. I've run a couple tanks full of Techron through the car and it is much less noticable now. I still think I could bump the idle speed a bit.


190D, with the 15W40, you don't have any cold cranking problems? The manual recommends 10W40 down to -5 deg F, but the other oil weights in the owner's manual aren't really common anymore. Everybody wants to sell 10W30 or 5W30. These aren't really appropriate weight oils given the recommendations in the owner's manual.

My car is navy with a navy MB-tex interior. I have a sunroof, power locks (don't really need), power windows (don't really need). The climate control works, and the A/C has been converted to R134. There is no rust on the car except I found some under the battery tray when I replaced it last night. I've washed it twice and have found zero water leaks anywhere. Overall, I'm very happy with the car. It really runs and shifts well.

I also got > 40 MPG on my first fillup last night. I've been running it pretty hard with about 75% highway and 25% city driving.

As far as Mercedes Benz go, it is obvious that this is a more modern car than others I've owned and driven (108 body cars, 116 body cars, 123 cars). It is a little "light in the shorts" relative to the 108 car I also own: meaning that following a semi it gets blown around a bit. But, the suspension is really quiet and smooth and it handles much better. It really is a great daily driver.

Thanks for the advice. If I need future help, I know where to go.

Sholin in Mustang, OK
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What else, '73 MB 280 SEL (Lt Blue)
Daily driver: '84 190D 2.2 5 spd.
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